The Dan

+1 to weak as piss You'd be better off putting in an RB20 gearbox. I've got one round the back you could have. they are also weak as piss so you'll be set. The flywheel should fit...just, but you will need flywheel and pressure plate from the Skyline and clutch plate from the RX7. Then the plate diameter is wrong as you would be using a 225mm clutch plate and the skyline is 240mm. You would either need to get a custom clutch made with the RX7 hub using the skyline outer plate or use an R32 GTS non-turbo flywheel and pressure plate with RX7 clutch plate which is 225mm...the same as R32 non turbo. Either way, it's a stupid idea...don't be stupid!

So I assume you are using a timing light to read the timing marks on the crank and not on the powerFC hand controller? If you are using the hand controller, give yourself an uppercut....give your friend one too. Check timing with timing light once you have the car in base timing mode. That is all.

The answer is....you need to speak to another tuner

It's called a drill, an oxy and a brasing rod. Yes I did have to pay for the gas in the oxy set and yes the drill bits do get blunt but these costs are neglegable. As for the injector duty. N/A or turbo...this does not matter when it comes to duty cycle. An injector as it stands alone can run at 100% duty cycle for up to 3-4 minutes without adverse effects. Being a non-turbo does not mean the duty cycle will be different, the non-turbo 300cc injector at 100% duty cycle will deliver the same amount of fuel as a 300cc injector at 100% in a turbo engine. All I am saying in my previous comment is that injectors can happily live at or near 100% without having to worry about upgrading them. turbo/non-turbo does not change an injector's duty cycle. Yes we are all agreed that even his 850's are too big for what he wants and that at 300rwkw he wouldn't see any more than 60% duty anyway. If he does then possibly needs to upgrade his fuel pump or fuel filter

Then 550cc injectors will easily supply you with enough fuel. 800's are a good option for you for future imporvements if you needed them. And on the note of duty cycle, 100% is maximum, not 95%. Some Hondas run 100% duty from factory. It is only old design injectors that are not happy at these duty cycles.

There is more what?...gibberish? When you properly set up an RB25 head, you will be using RB26 camshafts anyway. RB25 cams cost exactly the same, it's not my fault you get owned by your supplier. Like you said, the 25 will be converted to solid also. Do you have proof that the factory manifold cannot flow more than 300rwkw? If so, then you are suggesting the head can flow more than the inlet manifold which has exactly the same port sizing? RB25 exhaust manifolds do resist flow at 300rwkw but if you are seting up a "true high BHP application" then you wouldn't have this anyway. Once again, your supplier must be owning you on valves as these also cost within a couple of dollars of each other. I sent an RB25 head away to Ferrea and they now stock the 25 valves. Head gaskets are the same cost....see note on supplier above. Head bolts, you are correct...this does cost a hundred dollars or so to have done. You are incorrect on the oil return to the sump as the 25 has the same size return ports and one extra one from the front of the head which the 26 does not. So the extra $1000 you have spent just to buy the 26 head with super dooper manifolds has easily been a false economy when you consider the potential of a correctly set up 25 head. Cheers, Daniel

How much HP are you making? Tell me this and I will be able to help.

How are you attempting to adjust it? You can only lock your base timing and then proceed with base timing adjustments. After that, the computer will control everyting else. Are you able to explain your situation any better? I know your english is not so good and I'm not taking the piss. Are you trying to adjust it in the PowerFC or on the factory Cam Angle Sensor?

Hey buddy, The factory ECU is as programmable as the Apexi PowerFC or the LINK ECU. Link has not got such a good name over hear but there are also not many tuners that do a decent job in regards to aftermarket ECU tuning, so it may just be that they do not understand it's structure. The factory ECU will be able to give you everything except launch control but you can buy these as an addon and they work very well. I used a factory remapped ECU in my R32 GTST and made 260rwkw from the RB20. I have sinced moved on to the RB25 (as I had one lying around in the corner or the shed) and will also be using the factory ECU for it. It will be tuned to 600rwkw plus I will be adding gas to it later. Any of the options you have mentioned above will work for you, but the Nissan computer will be the most reliable. You can use the consult interface for diagnostics and if you have someone who can do the remapping for you that is close by, then that is great also. Go with the tuner you trust and the system he or she is most familiar with.

Incorrect, it costs exactly the same to modify an RB25 head to flow exactly the same as an RB26 head, For injectors that size he would obviously be chasing 800-900rwhp so the RB26 head would need the same changes a 25 would get. Also, the standard inlet can flow the same quantity of air as any aftermarket option. The only difference is the plenum chamber is slightly smaller (this can be changed/modified )

You will find that the R32 and R33 SMIC will be just as cruddy as each other. They are the same dimensions. The R34 SMIC is considered an upgrade because it is slightly more efficient than the previous models. The HKS actuator will work fine as long as it still operates as it should.

I have used Allstar for a few cars of mine (customers cars). Now I use and recommend CNJ Motorsport. Anyone that can tune a successful Time-Attack car gets my vote. Plus the many other track and rally cars they tune.

It's more fun at SAUQLD. We can all gang up on Shane and no one tries to stop us

It's Bitches. But at least you don't talk like that in real life....which is a start I guess. Shane does

It's a dry heat man.....a dry heat! Make sure the pinky is extended all the way or it just isn't an official coffee outing.

It's not for a complete tune. We are just having problems getting it to idle. Injectors shut off unless you hold down the accell. All wiring checks out and AFM signal looks good but engine cuts out as soon as throttle is lifted off. I would only need the map so I can get it to idle and get it to be tuned. He's got 2510's and 700's also so it wouldn't be that far off anyway.

Anyone in SEQ have an R32 GTR with Z32 AFM's and a PFC? Wondering if possible to rob a map off you?

mmmm nitro.

Of course it's bloody dead. I wouldn't give away the $850 R33 GTR clutch I have sitting here. Or the HD kit. That stuff costs money.

Yeah I got one here you can have for nothing

take off the coil pack cover and replace all the other parts so the car will run. Carefully remove the coil pack plugs one by one and plug it back in. The one that doesn't change is the cylinder that is misfiring. Now you've done step one, you need to determine whether it's cylinder, spark or injector.

It was good to see a great turnout. I missed attending events like this in the old days. Every second month there was always something good going on, no matter how meaningful the end result was going to be. Great effort! Thanks goes out to all the people who organised the event as these guys ALWAYS go unnoticed and less appreciated than they deserve. Silent thanks to the Lighthouse Restaurant for cooking the snags and then again for changing my hundgie.....Chris almost convinced me it was a $10 buffet all you can eat sausage sizzle but Mel's confusion gave it away.

In like Flynn! x1. Just need someone to drag my arse around for the morning. I have arranged pick up from Broadwater Hotel so not necessary to drop me home again. I will have the Consult and Laptop avail for a small amount of time if anyone needs a checkover etc. also.

+1 on the rings +1 again for JE rings. I would suggest CP pistons with HKS rings or JE pistons with HKS rings. Another option would be mahle rings. Just make sure you get the right ones for the pistons you buy.

Just use the factory ECU. Dr-Drift can remap them. More stable than the PFC, can be tuned EXACTLY the same. If you want anti-spank and wank-control, then go for an Motec for top of the line, Autronic would have to be next, then Haltech (but go the plug in version coz Haltech don't know how to wire their own ECU's)