The Dan

We have a linisher at work that'll take the sharp edge straight off the head of your alloy dildo Mark. Bring it in and have a go. It just silly to try and polish it down any other way

Use your fiery personality! No, seriously.....do it. Or you could just roll up a sheet of newspaper, use the toaster to light it and make FIRE!!!!!!!! Lived with some smokers and pot heads once...a long, long....long time ago.

Whippersnipper hey? 20cc or 50cc?

Agree I should be getting my GT51R next month. How bout you Shane...any word from the elders?

18psi. Possibly 20. But the discos are good for 26-28 safely anyway 18psi on the RS will be a super performer. It is the most responsive turbo on the market for it's hp rating. 3071R ? I thought you said 2871R.

You can make 280rwkw on a Disco with SR20. The 2871 is slightly larger and nowhere near as responsive. Depends on what lil mods he has. FMIC, pump, injectors, zorst, AFM should net him 250rwkw.

Disco 0.64 $13** inc GST (available) Disco 0.86 $13** inc GST (available) 2871 -2 0.86 $13** inc GST (EX Sydney - Tuesday)

You won't get fat Mark, 1. You're AZN, 2. You're young, 3. You got one of those friggin super rediculous fast metabolisms

Plus the disco's are only like $1250.

Disco FTW. Throw that 71 away!

Check the virtical control arm between the upper and hub for play. The load bearing in there may have play and cause vibration due to wheel instability. You should also check your castor rods to see if the bushes are split and leaking oil. Failing that, I would be looking for a strut failure or leak.

Or if you cut wire 53 the beeper won't know what speed you are doing.

It is a speed alert. Disconnect the lower section of the under steering dash and you will find a small box. Disconnect this and the beeping will stop. The headlight warning will also stop and so will the key in ignition warning.

What brand injectors? What happens to the fuel pressure when the miss happens? What were the compression test results? You need to determine whether it's a programming issue, a sensor issue, or a fuel/spark issue

Also try checking voltage to pump when it is doing it and fuel pressure in the rail also.

Have you considered possibly cleaning your injectors. Or even possibly retuning. Also compression test all cylinders while engine is hot to determine if there may be an issue. You could have some buildup on a valve that is not noticeable on WOT but on cruise it's evident. It's not always a sensor or tune issue. Just a thought.

Garden hose? Geez I thought you would have used polished alloy or some braid into a custom 'catch can'. Obviously the catch can would have a breather coz your shit don't stink. You know it's true!

It works coz I said it does! Your just shitty coz you had to fork out for the colostomy bag operation. Pardon the pun zhimers

There is a way to correct that Shane. The first pee is the essential one. You must wait for the absolute longest time you can. Until you are shaking trying to hold on. Then wait a further 10 mins. Go pee. Then you will find you will only have to pee once more for the rest of the night, maybe twice.

I like you mate. And that's all that matters.

Dunno mate, the lift pump was $130 but the filler I won't know until it arrives. The express air freight from USA he said would only be $50 and will take 3-5 days. But not sure on the actual cost of the item. Just fix me up when it get in. K brudda?

Shane: Noel and I were chatting about the projects and time taken to complete them tonight. It all boils down to one thing - PREPARATION. If you start out blind and just think I want this, and just add bits until you think you have it right, you will always be disappointed with the hack of a job at the end of the day and you will always spend twice as much and it will take twice as long. Before any great project you have to sit down and write out your goal. Write down a list of EVERY item you think would be needed to achieve that goal. Then take it to someone who knows what they're on about (not some cash junkie workshop that only wants to sell you parts that look bling or might be bits he has to get rid of coz they been on the shelf for a while). Once you have all the information you need, take your list to another place and get a second opinion. If there are differences in opinion, ask why, then go somewhere else reputable until you get two well known and good quality workshops to agree on what it will take to achieve your goal. Then you proceed with a plan of attack to get everything done. Once you have broken it down and know what you need and how to go about it, all the legalities etc. , then you will have a smooth operation. Either that or just FRIGGIN ASK ME IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!!!! Then you wouldn't have to spend so much money on crap you didn't need. Yeah BOI!!!

Sif pay $15600 for an 89 model. I can get a 97 for that kinda money. Who cares about a bloody body kit

I need to stop doing so much work. I need to get my car back on the road. Nearly have all the bits to get going. 800rwhp should be enough I reckon. But then again I might add some blue bottle throttle as well.

It really depends on your budget and how much power you want to make. If you have a bit of money, buy a CES dump pipe and CES catalytic converter. Then buy something like a Trust exhaust cat back system and just bolt the thing up. Kakimoto are pretty much the only available exhaust system that is available for your car that can be delivered. A cat back system is approx $880. The CES dump, cat and custom 3 inch system that I did on another 34 netted him with 175rwkw on an otherwise stock 34. The CES dumps I think I can buy for $500 and not sure what the cats are worth but they are a slim profile to fit under the 34. Regards, Daniel