The Dan

Hmm, didn't think about it that way. Makes sense though. Thanks for that. Got my new toy the other week. Spewing I can't use the bloody thing yet. shed is full.

You 'grass cat' you. Rowr?

I could tell you but I'll just get banned for advertising it without having trader status. Only Mark can do things like that.

http://chameleon-translations.com/Index-Co...es-pajero.shtml

I'm sure you realise that 'Pajero' is Spanish for wanker.

And what 3 are we talking about?

I just used the BUTTON biatch!

And we as users are adult enough to decide what offends us. We don't need someone to tell us what might offend us. If I find something offensive I'll report it. What exactly is the button at the bottom of every post there for if moderators are going to make our decisions for us? Maybe if everyone lightened the f#%k up, we all might be able to get along. Most people who have had their posts modified or deleted have not broken ANY rules. If you don't like the look of something, it gets changed or removed....even when people are just voicing their opinion involving no personal attacks. The rules only state no personal attacks or defamation, no profuse swearing etc. Not telling someone you think they are making the wrong decision or you think they are stupid. Line calls aren't what's needed - if someone has a problem with something that has been said USE THE BUTTON AT THE BOTTOM TO REPORT IT.

It's your o2 sensor

Anyone recommending a button clutch has either driven on them for the last 4-5 years or it's their first one and they haven't had it long. People who think button clutches are easy to drive are wrong, You can make them easy to drive but by driving it like a regular organic clutch, it will wear out in close to 12 months. To drive a button clutch is to drive it harsh, no riding...just in or out/on or off. Damages driveline and other components. Only recommended if you are willing to replace it in 12-14 months and keep learning to drive it properly. Sometimes there is no option but to run a button clutch if power levels exceed a certain amount. The Exedy heavy duty clutch will hold up to 240rwkw. If you don't to ghey stuff like flat shiftingand 6k launches, then you will not break it. If you are local to Brisbane we are fitting these clutches for $715 including flywheel machine and spigot. If you want something a little heavier then you can request the NSK-7056 kit with the NC10T pressure plate. This is the 1100kg pressure plate, and is the true antiburst/antislip cover that exedy make for Nismo. These are a fair bit more expensive but will hold more torque and last longer. Just remember, you don't need to go overboard but you do need to consider what the car will be used for in the future because if you decide to add more power, then a different clutch may be required. Careful consideration is required to make sure you don't waste your money.

This would only apply to an R32 series 2 - 3 GTR, R33 GTR or R34 GTT His details say R33 GTST and the bearing doesn't need to be 'unclipped' in this case

[email protected] email me and I'll tell you how

Studs should be 193016 Springs should be TYPE B 173002 at least. Lifter set should be 163005 Guides set should be 163046 After that you should still need to get your clearances setup but that can wait til after.

The problem with that is that he has snapped said tool inside the hole he already drilled. Any attempt to drill it out from now on will usually result in a blunt drill bit. You will need to get thread tech to do it. 1300 THREAD

nope, 190rwkw sounds on the money. Essentially, all the mods you have are exhaust, intercooler, powerFc and boost controller. I would expect 170rwkw for same without PowerFC and have seen results of three of such.

Ditto that. The pop would indicate piping coming off or similar. I was going to suggest afm loose wire or plug but doesn't explain the pop.

I like arguments. Anything I can do to resolve your predicament?

The shuddering can be corrected with an additive that redline also sells. You should only need 1.5L so 2 x 1L bottles is all that is required. $60 and you're sailing!

The ATI are obviously the better balancer but the new ROSS balancers are a very good unit. Especially for under $500 (unless of course it's a GTR). Even then you can use a GTR balancer, you just need to change to larger belts. Things have come a long way in the performance industry in the last 2-3 years and even moreso in the last 12 months. Either balancer is going to see you safely through to 9k. I know of just as many people running ATI as ROSS and none have any complaints on either one. All are over 400rwhp, 2 over 600.

By mount I am referring to the rubber part. Obviously the mounting bracket is different.

It's a shame the tuner fudged the result. Me thinks your actual HP would be somewhere around 340-350.

Who told you that you had a leaking head gasket? And what tests were performed to diagnose it as such?

METALCORP pay much more for alloy rather than regular steel

But your reference was to carsales.com? If it's a showcar and money isn't an issue then why the debate on value up or down? By logic, a guy buys a 33 GTST S2 for $15k, doesn't modify it at all and drives it around for 12 months. This time next year if he keeps it in excellent condition he may get $15k still or possible as low as $13k so at most he may lose $2k. The other guy buys 33 GTST S2 for $15k spends $10k in performance mods and another $3k on stereo so total cost including car comes to $28000. If he's absolutely lucky he'll sell the car in 12 months for $20000. Sure he got $5000 more than he paid for the car...woohoo!, but lost $8000. Which do you prefer $2000 loss or $8000 loss? So there's losing money, and then there's losing money. Not saying you're wrong or anything, it is true that you pay more for a modded car, but it's a bad idea to think you are going to get more just for changing to a different type of engine. On another side though, SR's are definately a much better engine.

That is fine. Any lower than 20 and I would be checking timing and/or vacuum leak though. good trick to check for leaks is to buy a can of Aerostart (I prefer 'Start'ya'bastard for reasons we won't get into) and while the engine is running, spray it over the vac hose connections and where the cooler piping runs. IF there is a leak the idle will change fairly dramatically.