The Dan

Not so. The trick to selecting a good camshaft in a turbocharged engine is to match it to the turbo. The higher lift will increase torque and, therefore, power overall. The duration of the camshaft will determine where the camshaft is MOST efficient. If your turbos are starting to make most of their power from about 3.5-4K (which I would expect out of 2530's) then you would want to select a camshaft that suits that powerband. Therefore, I would not be going any higher than the 264's. This duration will be at it's most efficient at the same time the turbos are making their power. The higher you can get your lift, the more torque you will make. The duration shifts the powerband up or down but be careful not to go too high as the longer the duration, the narrower the powerband becomes. Also if you select anything over 9.15mm lift, you will need to change springs etc. Try to buy the springs from the same manufacturer as the camshafts as this will ensure no hickups....they are designed together.

Doesn't need to be lowered unless you have one of those shonk CF bonnets otherwise RB30 or RB26 mounts work. They are both the same.

Don't bend, that is the most rediculous thing you casn do. do as Cubes suggests and elongate the holes. Then just move the pod away from the turbo. You should need to pull the rod arm the width of it's hole to get it over the wastegate arm. It should be firm and hard to pull out.

are you turning the dial in the right direction?

If it's a VG30 BB highflow using a Garrett cartridge then the top heatshield will need to be cut on the front side to clear the comp housing as the Garret cartridge is shorter than the Skyline one. It will fit, just need to gasaxe a section out of it.

I can't help you if your answer to my question is 'The standard way'. The vacuum hose from the controller should be connected to a T-piece. The T-piece should have an arrow on it. The arrow must point to the vac hose that connects to the actuator. The other side of the T-piece needs to connect to the pressure nipple on the intercooler piping that comes from the top of the turbo. If you have it connected to the wrong nipple (there are 2) then it will not work. Also make sure you have disconnected the solenoid that is beside the power steer res.

Long double ring or gooseneck double ring are the better choice. The ratchet rings are good but only fit on 50% of the bolts due to a bulky head. Stay away from open end unless you are using a Snap-on flankdrive.

That doesn't make sense. Can you explain?

How have you installed the controller? Not interested in wiring, only vac hoses.

Spanners: 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm. You will also need pliers, #2 and #3 screwdrivers, and a decent socket set with extensions. Use spanners, pliers, screwdrivers and sockets to remove engine. Put new engine in place and use spanners, pliers, screwdrivers and sockets to put it back together again. Change ECU and loom and re-route some vac hoses. Same mounts, same mounting position, all gearbox's are interchangeable. EASY!

It's not your O2 sensor. Do what rob said, flow test the pump. I would be more inclined to check it before the injectors though. Bridge the fuel pump relay and time the flow into a 1L container. Have you replaced your fuel filter? A block fuel filter is a known likely cause of missfire under load. Can sometimes be mistaken for coilpacks.

Their value doesn't go up mark. You weigh up the cost of the conversion and then how much you sell it for and 99% of the time you will lose money. Sure you might sell it for $5k more than you pay for a stock one but it probably cost you $6-8 to convert it. At the end of the day a car is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay. Doesn't mean it's worth the money you are asking, just someone is stupid enough to pay that much for it. That said, you can sometimes get bargains from importers where you'll pay next to nothing for an engine, slap it in as a direct bolt up (25 in place of a 20), conversion costs FA and you might get back more than you paid but there are much better ways of earning a quid and much faster also. Rebuild is definately a better option. It costs a lot more to put in an SR and you will have a more empty pocket at the end of the day when you realize how much they cost to modify. Other RB's can be slotted in but once you weigh up cost of replacement engine, then all the rest of the mucking around, you are back to square 2 with an engine you are unsure of. You don't know it's life, you don't know how much longer it has left. At least with a rebuild you can customise it to your needs and get something strong that will more than likely handle the punishment you want to give out.

You can keep your screamemo crap...this is the bomdiggityshiznit! >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXm5fVNVZzw

Sorry mate, I have re-sent the email. Probably best to discuss in person as customisation can be done. Also - who told you $4k for second hand - it's more like $2k

Who sold you the turbo?

Noel enjoyed himself during the very few hours it wasn't raining on Saturday. Sunday was just as crap as Saturday from what Shane just told me. And in case you were wondering...YES that is cheese cake and hot chocolate. May as well have been a Soy Chai Latte Noel. lol.

got $6k

Stop screwing up traffic in the Redlands you git. That roundabout is the most free flowing section on the south east corner. Put in a set of lights and what do you get. Friggin traffic jams. How bout you move west another 1km and get them to piss orf those dodgey traffic lights before the highway.

I'm pretty sure they will exchange the housings plus cash their way. Might cost you $150 I can check for you tomorrow if you like. How many K's on the 1.15 housing? And is it a 1.15 or a 1.06?

A few years ago I was working at Ipswich City Square. Crashed my car on the way to work. Towie dropped me off on Brisbane St. Bunch of local scum started giving me crap so I grabbed the biggest one and threw him over the bus shelter seat. The funniest part is that they are all mouth until you front them, then they run like a bunch of sooks. You probably just scared the shit outta him Noel. He didn't know what to do so he tried to dazzle you with his unique ability to combine swear words and some english to totally bludgen the language to death. You would be left dumbfounded and he would be able to escape. I bet his uncle cake holed him for not bringing home the smokes though.

godadullabulla? Translation: Do youhave any loose change so that I may purchase an Alcoholic beverage? godamoke? Translation: Could I please trouble you for a cigarette? afugyadumbprick. aaahhf*kyarsef. f*kngeezyasconnedme!!! Translation: Wow, for an old man you really know how to beat a man. That really hurt and if I wasn't as thick as two planks and a brick I'd probably cry right now. Here's your things, have a nice day sir.

Automotive engineer or civil engineer

Who do you think L's is?

The price is what gets me. How can they sell a car that good so cheap? Think about it, 4 doors, boost quick, nimble on it's feet, revs fast, 4 banger so good on fuel when off boost. $22-$25k bargain. I would buy one over a GTR anyday. MARK - That ones not on the site because I haven't added it yet. It takes ages to add all the products. I've only got like 180 products out of ~ 1000 completed. Sorry for the late reply lads....out watchin a movie. Just got back. I'm caught up now. Sarp: Sub, Shane, Noel, Shnappy, Josh, Ben and L's

The only downfall of the standard reg is flowrate. I think they are limited to 230L/hour or 600rwhp Why have you picked 740cc injectors? They can easily supply you with enough fuel for 500rwkw. 240rwkw should only require 550cc and even then you won't come anywhere near their max. It's all in the tune. Get youself a Nismo, SARD, HKS or Tomei intank pump (they are all the same pump). They are the best for direct fit and good for up to 550-600rwhp