The Dan

Why bother. I can get you parts from JJ delivered for less than the website price. If it saves you the hassle.

Also....ask R33_Racer why he uses Redline in his track car? I'm sure he'll tell you it's because it's a far superior product. ...either that or because his dad tells him to lol. ....But if you ask his dad, then, he would definately say that....definately.

Leaving the oil filter o-ring on the engine. Sometimes it sticks to the filter housing and when you screw the new one on it just pulls to one side and stops the filter from sealing. You'll end up with 5L of oil on the floor and all over the drivers side of your engine bay in about 3-4seconds. You could leave the sump plug out and slip over on the puddle around your feet. You could accidentally mistake your expensive oil for good scotch and drink it. This will poison you.

It's my pick because rather than cutting costs by blending into polyalphaolefin base stock for its motor oil, Red Line Oil only uses superior poly ester-based products—resulting in lubricants that are extremely stable at high temperatures while providing superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced. Motor oil. Red Line synthetic motor oils are a superior strength oil, designed to provide the highest degree of protection and cleanliness for your engine. Red Line lubricants contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines, which makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a hot running engine or a turbocharger. More importantly, Red Line motor oils can significantly reduce engine wear, which means a longer useful life for your engine. Unlike other oils that break-down quickly, thus having to be changed at small intervals, Red Line has superior long-drain capabilities. Read about how Red Line synthetic oils have been shown to last 40,000 kms in field tests. Race oil. Red Line has a complete line of race oils (5W up to 70W) that work under the demanding conditions of high-performance driving. Red Line Race Oils have gained a reputation as the ultimate racing lubricant. Marketers of other lubricants unsuccessfully claim to be “as good as Red Line”. Our lubricants are used by teams who understand that improved performance and equipment durability is the key to winning. Our race oils are made with the most thermally stable synthetic base stocks available and provide the best high-temperature lubrication and a higher film strength than any petroleum or synthetic marketed. Red Line Race Oils provide more power than an oil of similar viscosity, while providing much more protection. Each reduction in viscosity grade allows 1–2% more power. Redline can explain it better. Basically protects engine better. Make more power. Oil is more thermally stable. Only oil that can lubricate hot metal. Redline are the only oil manufacturer that can PRINT that they are better than all others on the market because they can actually prove it.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle. Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book. Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that. 300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

Oil filter is a Z145a. I dunno what stupid number Valvoshit use but that's the one you're after. Oil is anything semi-synthetic or full synthetic 10w40, 10w50, 15w40, 15w50. Try to steer clear of anything under 10 and over 50. 10w30 if you have to. If you choose to do your own oil change, be prepared to pay consequences if you make a mistake.

Redline FTW!

No offence but you almost seem as though you have as much mechanical knowledge as the rest of SAU. Since when does an EFI car have a choke? And whose opinion that a timing chain wouldn't be stronger than a belt? Sif a chain would be weaker than a belt. I've only ever heard of one timing chain breaking before. Usually people blame the chain for being noisy when it's actually the tensioner that's broken or a guide. Anyway, off topic. You are, however, possibly on the right track with spark. That would make sense with fuel coating spark plugs. Do you have a spark tester?

I emailed them today to find out wtf is going on. They had 5 there and I payed for it on the 7th. I will phone them tomorrow if I don't get any replies.

Possibly but I doubt that is your problem. Did you say the turbo only made 15psi with no vac hose attached to the actuator? Have you taken a boost reading from straight after the turbo and then another one from before the t/body, then another one from after the t/body? If not - do that.

nope

You don't want to buy a 33GTR off me when you sell yours do you? It's only $3k more.

My vote goes on the rear view mirror not being correctly aligned. Man that shit can throw everything off.

Not rebuilding...just being thorough. Over the Hill pulled a piston out so who knows. Best to be safe than sorry

It's only defamation if people care about you Shane. You need friends first. Plus I'm only stating facts. I knew you would be able to help him get it out. You are 'THA MAN'

A bit of force is required. You need to reach down into the tank, grab it by the stem and pull up hard. Ask Shane, he can help with the stem grab and hard pull up. Lots of practice makes perfect.

Gigantor multi grips also work but not as well. Once you get the top off, the pump clips into the mounting. You need to pull the pump bracket upwards to release it. When you are putting it back in, MAKE SURE YOU PUT THE TWO PRONGS BACK DOWN INTO THE TWO SLITS. You shouldn't have to push hard to get it to slide down. If you do, chances are it is not lined up properly.

It turns off. To do it properly you need Nissan tool number 123XYZ You can use a pry bar, wedge it onto one of the fins and hit it with your palm to turn it round. It is regular thread direction but they are usually really tight.

First I would suggest aquiring a car that is capable of times related to drag racing. But yes Noel, this is the wing you would need to enable your Vtec to open up the gates of Hell and unleash 4 second passes.

Get a load of this clown. POWERED BY HONDA? POWERED BY MORON more like it.

Second hand clutch, barely used. Pull type cover. Clutch plate comes in 2 pieces. Will require some glueing.

I saw that many people have trouble bleeding their clutch so I thought I would add this. It is step by step, it works well for fluid flushes ect. but if you are installing a new master cylinder or lines you may need to 'repeat' the repeat steps. I have referred to the fluid dampener as "funny little box" as this is what my customer called it and this was my reply to him...just cut and paste. Bleeding MUST be done in the following way: Fill reservoir (obviously) Have someone watch level at ALL times as it only takes 4 pumps to drain it dry. Following line is ONLY if reservoir has been empty. 1. Open line that goes into master....then apply clutch pedal. 2. Close off line....then return clutch pedal to original height. 3. Repeat 1 and 2 one more time. 4. Open line from master into 'funny little box'....then apply clutch pedal. 5. Close off line...then return pedal to original height 6. Repeat 4 and 5 one more time Make sure you have someone checking the fluid level. 7. Open line out of 'funny little box'...then apply clutch pedal 8. Close off line...then return pedal 9. Repeat 7 and 8 10. Are you getting the idea? Move to the next line in sequence as you get closer to the slave. Making sure to include the bleeder on the 'funny little box' The bleed must be done at each hose connection otherwise it will never be right. I have sometimes done it without doing each one but if you do it to all then it ALWAYS turns out good at the end. Once you get to the slave just do the same as above. It must be - OPEN - PEDAL DOWN - CLOSE - PEDAL UP Once you have done that twice on the slave and have closed the line off you can get the guy operating the pedal to pump the clutch pedal 5 or 6 times Then when he holds it down you can open the line then close it again before he returns the pedal. This should only need to be done once...if at all. The pedal should be spot on at this point.

hahahahah! 1 and 2 cancel each other out. 2 contradicts 3 4 cancels out 5 That would be the perfect turbo. I mean, it has it all. Early boost, no lag, big power right to past redline. I'll take 6 if you can find one...I don't even care how much they are.

$490?.....Geez I don't charge much more than that to install the FULL whiteline package. Bushes, bars, struts and all. Camshafts? No problems....just make sure shane can watch...I'd like him to see what a whole one looks like.

In that case, my mobile is being switched off.