The Dan

I had heard of more. Doubting its the pumps fault though. There are more factors involved I'd say

You don't think it's more likely the standard breather system is pumping oil out in front of the turbo? I would say that is more likely than blockages in factory drain hoses

Jealous much?

I am not always serious but I'm always serious about flange

T25

Everyone likes a happy engine don't they

OEM Well, the gauge could be out but your CTS is 15-20 years old if it hasn't been replaced. 10 deg isn't much. Noel's black 33 had a similar issue where he thought it was getting super hot but I replaced the CTS and it all came back to normal readings

Your coolant temp sensor could be slightly out. New ones are about $30 from Repco but you need to match up the part by picture or go to tridon's website and find it there. I forget the number now

Isn't it easier to ignite the air/fuel on an engine that has a much larger bore like that one?

Zachary. Pull the engine down and assess the damage. Only then can you begin to unwrap the puzzle pieces in reverse

You'll get a MUCH better result if you go there and ask nicely to see them. Don't assume they are at fault, it will only make things much harder for you. Instead, go there with your objective thinking cap on and listen to what they say, take all the information on board and then ask some other experts about what has been said. Try to take someone with you who might know a lot more about these things. Think about trying to find out WHY rather than WHO and the WHO will work itself out in the end.

What ECU are you running?

The hardest thing for most people is identifying what colour it REALLY is. I would take it somewhere to have it checked. When your engine pings, the smoke it will spit out can look white in the mirror but its not. It could also be spitting a bit if oil out the breather on the cam cover and burning it through the engine. Any if those things are easily fixed if identified.

I don't think it's possible to have the gearbox removed and NOT have a scraping noise. That shim plate doesn't sit level when there is no gearbox to hold it up against the block. Also what do you mean by 'clutch lug nuts on the engine side of the flywheel'? There shouldn't be any nuts there? Have you tried talking to the guy who built the engine and actually give him the opportunity to have a look at the clutch etc? Why isn't that guy pulling it apart?

You just said what I was thinking

Get the JustJap front mount. There is nothing wrong with it. Get some better injectors. Not because you need more injector but because its easier to make HP on a better injector. Turn the boost up to 18psi and you should knock out about 340hp atw

Sounds like you have burnt clutch material onto the flywheel (welded). The welded chunk will continue to spin the plates around and keep the clutch from disengaging

I was told by Garrett that they shared the same core now. I argued a bit but they assured me that was the case.

Oh so you mean you used a balancer that is designed as a factory fitment but put it in an application that it was unintended for? Is anyone having a problem with a 25 balancer on an RB25 or a 26 balancer on an RB26?

That's a pretty big call. Can you back it up with any evidence?

Yes, as a minimum. 3/4 to a full pin width to be certain you'll have enough preload

Yes. When you have the rod in a rested position, you want approx half the pin or less visible through the hole. We normally recommend starting at 3/4 of a hole width for good actuator tension

Low compared to what?

Your mechanic is correct. Get him to fix it

Check the waste gate actuators for their actuation pressure and make sure the flap isn't open slightly or has low pressure.