The Dan

You are assuming it will be done some time soon. Hey Shane....June is approaching fast. What's the kitty up to now boys...$230?

anything up to 10.25mm. Factory is 7.8mm so massive torque gains will be had. It's just a matter of selecting the right duration to match the turbo That turbo is actually a GT3582R or GT35R for short. I can't tell you how much I can do one of these for as Col will get upset. He's probably watching right now so we should whisper. God forbid I save SAUers some money. Don't worry bout me...rant over

what is a 35/40? and changing to solid (going along with the other valvetrain mods) will only require a purchase of lifters at around $500 for the set of 24 and around $150-$180 for the shim set to adjust clearances. Means a much higher lift will be available to you and more durable for higher rpm/load

yeah I needed to talk to you about the head setup again. You definately aren't going to change to solids? And exactly what turbo and housing a/r are you using?

RB25 and RB26 rods are the same

From what i've seen, Shane's always got something in his hand. Waddup Noel? Word Ben!

Why....you scared?

So what does it mean if my RB20 can dust your RB25 that can dust his RB30 - does that mean I win?

Well you're doing something wrong The actual amounts are around: Engine: 4.6-4.8L Gearbox: 2.2-2.5L Diff: 1.5L

The RB25 and RB26 ones still need to be purchased from Nissan but the RB20 ones can still be had aftermarket. The number isn't actually a JB4055 as I was led to believe. I did some more research into this and the JB4184 (off top of head) actually fits better. Cylinders look similar but the I had issues with the 4055 in that it caused the piston to run at an angle and wore out the seal quite quickly. This can be fixed by machining the base at an angle but it's just as easy to get the other cylinder.

Coz 3L = SHIT! He'll have all the torque he needs with porting and careful cam selection, combined with correct turbo choice. Plus the RB25 will rev higher and more reliably. Plus the RB25 has better technology incorporated into it's block design.

$1200 is a reasonable price for an un-inspected box. They will generally replace all the bearings. Some workshops won't do all of them...just the ones that are worn. They will replace any other parts which may be worn. For any of your regular gearbox shops they will charge you around $1200 for a basic rebuild which will cover you for labour, bearings and most of the time one or two synchro rings and that's about it. Any more damage inside and the bill goes up most often. I do the RB25 and RB26 boxes starting from $800 for bearings, seals and labour to strip/reassemble. This doesn't include any synchros or gears. I generally stay away from rebuilding RB20 boxes as they are much weaker than their counterparts. I recommend the cryo treatment if you want to stay with the 20 box as it will increase it's strength by around 2-3 times.

I dunno, would you like me to explain it using Noels car as the example or Ian's car?

Yeah but if Shane did as he was told then you wouldn't have had any problems in the first place. Sif take power from the ECU for boost controllers!

I wasn't sure I was supposed to flow test the head?

They were supposed to ring me back with an answer today but didn't and I didn't have time to chase it up. I had to do a clutch on an RVR and a Prelude today so kinda had my hands full. I'll get onto them first thing in the morning. What cams did you end up going for?

siddown bitch...what did I tell you yesterday - first rule of being a bitch....don't talk back Best way to trap the heat in.

Part number should be 32136-U0100 but I would remove the seal and have it matched up to be sure.

Great!, does that mean I have to keep my phone on now?

I cannot submit trader ratings

The GTR will easily hold it's value for twice as long as the EVO....it's a simple question of finances...I say make the investment!

So that tool can pressure test the head to make sure the stem seals are sealing correctly? Just so you can determine whether it actually is a seal that is the problem and not a cracked guide. I know what you're saying and can appreciate what you have done....it's not a new thing, and those tools have been around for some time (decades). In fact I use them to install valve springs (after running in a cam, then changing over to double springs). Things like that are ok but you have to consider it from a workshops point of view and that a warranty has to be given to some extent. Also it is dodgy to only do 90% of the job by not testing it to ensure there will be no other problems. Also it will save you time by not having to do it again if it does turn out to be a cracked guide.

No I didn't say your results were a fluke and wasn't implying that you had done the wrong thing. I was commending you on a job well done and saying that it is good to see people actually having a go at doing stuff themselves. What I was disagreeing with was that some people are saying that workshops now have to pick up their act and do it this way to remain cost effective. The proper way is not always the cheapest. As for the head gasket only having 2000ks on it....why were the stem seals not done then? So just to re-cap so there is no confusion: You did a great job and good work on reporting it all. I CAN see why you did it that way afterwards but not sure why it wouldn't just get done with a head gasket to be thorough I still stand by the fact that NO DECENT mechanic would do it that way to a customers car for the reason that it is only doing most of the job and not all.

Puck their act up? Surely you'd want them to do the job properly and thoroughly. For the cost of a head gasket and inlet/exhaust gaskets, I would prefer to do the job properly. Plus the fact that removing the head actually takes the same time as doing it the other way and you can regrind the valve seats while you're there. You won't get a decent workshop to change valve stem seals like that. Too much can go wrong and you can't test it afterwards so really it's a half arsed way to go about it. I don't mean any disrespect to SECUR1TY by saying the above as I'm not directing it towards him. It is actually refreshing to see more people who'll get out there and try new things. Just making a point that when people ask me, or any respectable mechanic, to change stem seals like this...the answer will always be no.