The Dan

That's right, coz you're waiting on the FIRST available set so as soon as they arrive you'll be the first person in the country to be able to look at one. Then you have the privilege of me coming all the way out to sticksville where you live to trial-fit it before you buy them. How's that for service?

Plus if someone had a readymade adapter plate for the sump (that actually fits), you would have had it done 6 months ago

I didn't know you had you pistons coated Shane?

It is a good place to take it but I have had the problem of bleed off causing the oil pressure light to come on at idle...even though the pressure was fine.

And why do I know the bosch pump comment is crap? I think walbro pumps suck arse. Get the flow specs for the pump and try to tell me it even comes close to the bosch pump. The 255L/hr pump works out to be something like 150L/hr once you hit 55-60psi rail pressure. But who needs adequate fuel flow at high rpm, high boost?

That's why it's a general guideline. For people who are using the factory coil packs then these are the more preferred options. If you upgrade to the splitfires then you can disregard regapping alltogether.....unless ofcourse the problem is not ignition. Read the sentence before the one you quoted of me and you'll see that I was referring to standard coils Once again Cubes you have missed the whole point of the thread. I don't have anything against regapping plugs. The whole aim is to achieve the highest spark gap without compromising spark energy. By reducing the gap, you are just reducing the resistance across the electrode which means the coil doesn't have to build as much energy to arc across it. Go ahead and regap your plugs. But only do it if it's required - not just because you think you have to. If you are going to regap them, actually spend some time finding the right gap. This might mean removing the spark plugs 5 times but you'll learn something in the process. If the gap you require is considerably less than factory specs and you aren't running extremely high boost, then consider WHY you have to reduce the gap that far and think about what you can do to improve it. If your car is overheating would you just keep topping up the water and never look for the problem? If the answer is no, then ask yourself why would you settle for weak ignition and just reduce the gap of the plug? Do it properly. I have regapped plugs for many customers but it's not always necessary. I try to educate people but it doesn't always work.

Just a pressure test through the port to ensure the stem seals are actually sealing. Like I said, though...ok if you are doing it to your own car but not really the proper way or a good way to do it. It's like changing camshafts over without removing the timing belt....sure it can be done but not a good way to do it.

Hmmm, so it could be an R33 or an R32...that kinda narrows it down a little

No, only the standard PTU. Iridium plugs and factory ECU remapped. The problem is that all of these people have this funny idea that they have to do something because everyone else is. Why is everyone gapping their plugs to 0.8mm? Because the guy next to them told them to or told them it would fix their misfire. Well good on them...it does fix their misfire but doesn't fix the actual problem. The only reason I am a minority is because I setup the car right. People ask me all the time why they should change to the splitfire coilpacks and I can tell you it's because of those very reasons. I can run 22psi boost with a spark plug gap of 1.1mm. Splitfire coilpacks offer a 50% higher spark energy and maintain a more constant voltage even at very high rpm. You cannot plug these in and tell me you can't feel the difference. Or see it on the dyno.

bugger that for a joke. Good that it works but how did you go about pressure testing the system? Not too bad if you do the job for your own vehicle but it sucks now because I've had three people ask me to change their valve springs and seals over without removing the head. What's your email so I can send 'em your way lol.

Is the ballbearing and spring still in there?

^^ what he said. And have you even done basic tests to determine what it might be that is stopping it from starting? Spark, fuel or what ?

Air leak. Same issue on another R33 and it was the charcoal canister leaking. When it's doing it you can get a pair of pliers and block the vac line that goes to the canister. If the idle settles then there is your problem. After you have found your issue, you can sit back and have a beer, look at what you have achieved and be glad with yourself. Or not. Problem might not be canister but I'm betting air leak somewhere......the tuning suggestion is not likely but still can happen.

you need to wind it all the way out til the screw comes off then wind it back in half - a full turn then mlock it down. The $22 controller is not broken. The hose from your intercooler/turbo pressure side goes into the connection in line with the adjusting bolt. The connection out the side goes to the actuator. Exactly how the diagram displays it above. Most people plug it in and never adjust it from the way it comes in the mail to get 12-14psi....and that's usually only 1 thread in on standard turbo etc..

Only one should be sucking air. The other one will at partial throttle opening. It is designed to retrieve fuel vapour locked in the charcoal canister.

Have done a couple of these now. There are a couple of places you can run the vct from but I think, ultimately the turbo oil feed will work best.

It doesn't matter about the climate. Whether it's 0 degrees ambient or 40 degrees ambient...the engine is designed to run between 82-88 degrees celcius. So it doesn't matter what climate you are driving in...the engine will operate the same way within those given temps. Fair enough the octane rating will make a minute difference but given the factory tuning and the fact that most people have reset their computers already, I don't think it would pose that much of a problem. As for running those coils 5 years later...did you change your fuel pump or filter in that time? If so then that may have been your problem all along. Much of the point I was trying to make has been lost and that was....The ignition system is designed to run with a gap of 1.1mm. Do you think Nissan slapped the engine together, gapped the plugs to 1.0...said "good", opened them up to 1.1...said "good", gapped to 1.2mm..."oh wait we've got a misfire, let's make it 1.1"? They didn't design these setups on the border of missfire/blowup If your ignition system cannot handle a plug gap of 1.1mm then there is some type of problem. I put in the splitfire coil packs and ran 22psi boost with a plug gap of 1.1mm with absolutely no issues ever. That was because I had a decent fuel pump (not some walbro crap coz it was cheaper than the bosch), I had decent injectors which suited the power output I was making, and a decent ignition system. I also had a good intercooler (PWR) which ensured inlet temps never went higher than they should. Find the weak link and replace it....don't just slap a bandaid over it.

yeah they are to suit RB25DET Neo. Hopefully they won't be too much longer with it all. They open in an hour and a half so I'll probably call them to find out progress.

Yeah, fixed that issue. The light pedal is good for people who've never driven a twin plate before but does promote riding. This is the problem in John's case because he has ridden it soooo much. The hub's were both farked. It's the same clutch Marc has in his 9 second GTR, marc has no problems. The clutch never failed, there was an issue with the spigot bush and an issue with the input on the gearbox. Fairly easy fixes in both cases. The diaphragm has been changed to a heavier type so pedal should feel pretty good now.

You're just upset because you weren't the one to take Jim's berry.

Turns out I was right. It was Performance Wholesales mistake all along. Ferrea confirmed that the valves were to suit 1999-2002 RB25DET. I have sent them a sample head with valves so that they can start producing early RB25 valves, springs and other head components. I have also sent them RB20DET cylinder head complete so that they can start making parts for them also. They will be the only company that I know of to do a direct bolt in valve replacement for RB25DET or RB20DET so stay tuned for the results of that.

It costs too much for me to go to Willowbank anyway....coz my traction level is so high it actually reverse rotates the earth on it's axis which turns back time. This is how I am able to run such quick times. The only downfall is that due to my high levels of traction, I tear up the bitumen and this has to replaced at my expense. If only I could find another way...hmmm. Hey Andy, how did the new clutch go on that last 2 you pulled...she still running sweet. You know it's an NPC rebuild so Shane might get jealous that it didn't explode, causing your car to be written off in the process.

My GTST would eat most hard tuned GTR's. I'm running low 7's now.....on street tyres.

Why does the guy think it's the MSD?

We do the kits at work for these. I can buy them for around $16 I think. You can do them yourself but if you don't have a sandblaster you might as well not bother coz the job will be half arsed.