The Dan

I can get you the engine for 2k or a 33 front cut for 4k but don't have the time to fit or explain suck squeeze bang blow tick tock doof doof.

I may have a small window open on the weekend. I don't know if I can come to you though. I have an EXTREMELY good tow truck driver who can literally tow anything anywhere if you want his number. He dropped J-boy's car straight into the garage for me and that car is pretty low. His name is Steve from Pacific Towing 0412 032 023. Just tell him Daniel from Elite Racing referred you. If you can leave it with me over the weekend I will be able to sort it out but just have been sooooo busy lately. Obviously no charge if I can't fix it.

If you want a copy of the vacuum diagram I can sort it out for you. It's available in the manual and on FAST.

I try to get mine to the track whenever I can.....hangon....when was the last time I drove it. Fark now I'm depressed. I think Fineline is right, having a Skyline IS just a penis extension.....AND I'M LOVIN HAVING A HUGE COCK!!!

I won't send a pm but can you make me a copy also Andy? I had them on VHS but an old housemate stole them. What format are they in?

She's a purebred brittish staffy and her name is Zoe [Zo-ee]

she's 8 weeks old and cute as a button. Just waiting til she's old enough coz you can't mod them til 6 months. I'm thinkin FMIC and pump to start with. Sorry bout the links as the gallery was closed so I can't update and I'm not apologising for the bandwidth hog either....sif you don't have broadband by now.

That should get you by until you can put in a decent pump On a separate not, appeared to well organised...everyone was friendly as usual. One thing I would like to say, as Lazy has, how can the runs be accurate when the ramp speeds are constantly changed. I also noticed around 6 cars that wheel spinned on the rollers and 5 of them I know should be making more power than the result. Chris (Pear) made 156rwkw and had wheel spin. I mean, I know they could hear it...so why didn't they do something about it. Col made 280rwkw with wheelspin, Adam made 220rwkw with wheelspin but they only gave him the 210rwkw printout, Chris had wheelspin, Andy had wheelspin... I've been around dynos for a number of years and the only car I have seen with wheelspin was a 600rwkw GTR in RWD mode. Not saying dodgy, just saying they should have done a little more to make it better.

No, it's a completely uneducated guess. Of course it will weaken the head. The amount of material around the stud area is adequate to hold the weight of the manifold/turbo/exhaust etc. When you reduce the material it means there will be less support for the manifold studs. Not to say that it will break but you put a GT35R on it with a stainless manifold and you can bet it will crack through.

Yeah let's see you justjap kit provide me with 26 degree inlet temps when ambient is 30 and I'm running 22psi boost. PWR are unrivaled.

You realise that is less money you can spend on other SWEET rides. Plus smoke screen rocks!

Lame. Jessica Alba FTW!

^^^^^

yeah, what's with that?

The PWR cooler shits on all other coolers and basically almost utilises the standard pipework instead of that super ghey cross fan setup.

When the turbo reverts air, it bounces back and forth between the air filter and compressor wheel. This is how it gets there.

The rocker cover breathers plumb back into the intake pipe in front of the turbo. It doesn't dump it in before the AFM it just gets a residue there and the oil builds up to a pool. I have removed a few intake pipes that have a good 20-30ml of oil in them when the turbo has been completely fine.

Your car....do as you like. The suggestions have been made.

Don't remove the stud lumps...just improve their shape by getting rid of the sharp bump on the inner edge and lowering the height. If you remove it you will end up damaging the head.

Contact cleaner is better but you can use carbi cleaner. However, if you had the choice between carbi clean and brake clean...you would use the brake clean.

Don't forget a turbo acts like a fuel pump. It only pushes air. It requires a restriction to create boost pressure. It is moreso the boost pressure combined with the flow of the turbo which determines volumetric efficiency. The smallest area the air must get through is the valve space. There is no 'weak' cylinder as they are not all on intake at the same or similar times. It is the turbo which must continue to push air once the valve opens and there is a pressure drop in the system. If the turbo fails to provide a volume of air suffiecient to fill all cylinders at once then it will not be able to keep up at high rpm, air speed is reduced and power drops. What the design of the plenum does is maximise the 'efficient' space that the turbo can store air before the valve opens. Go too big and you will suffer in the lower end of the rev range for torque but increase your max rpm potential....go too small and the inverse is true. Usually a good plenum size is around twice the capacity of the engine. Runner length also has a major role to play in choosing a plenum/intake manifold as you want to achieve maximum torque at a desired rpm. The longer the runners, the lower the rpm you will have your torque band....and the same applies for this as the plenum in that you don't want to go too far. Runner design is important in that if you just weld some pipe to a barrel, you won't need to put it on a dyno for me to tell you it's not going to be efficient. Instead, bell mouth runners inside the plenum that taper down to the inlet port of the cyliner head to increase air speed as it enters the cylinder head is the better option. Once again there are more factors that play here and also protrusion of the runners into the plenum, diameter of runners, plenum shape, throttle body size in comparison to plenum size and then all of the above compared to engine capacity and whether or not it's forced inducted or not. As you can see there is much more then just size and shape.....it's not always a case of what looks good, works well. I'm not saying that the aforementioned plenum does not work....I have not seen it or inside it for that matter. Just the usual educate the masses and help them make their own decision saga. Yunno the one about the 'teach a man to fish'. lol

32 and 33 GTR engines are the same so there should be no difference in the pump bracket. Keeping in mind that the RB30 was slightly different in block design so the RB30 one is unlikely to fit. Good luck.

Mr Benno is selling his $14k setup for a fraction of the cost. Try giving him a PM. Sorry if this has already been suggested but I don't care to read the previous posts....moving on.

I recently purchased a set of Ferrea valves part # F1934P and F1936P to suit RB25DET 1mm oversize. Only problem is...they are wrong. I rang Ferrea and told them their valves are wrong and they asked me if maybe I had made an error but I informed them that this was not possible. They thanked me for bringing this terrible mistake to their attention and I promptly sent sample valves to them in Florida for inspection. Wondering if anyone else has purchased these valves from Ferrea and if they were the correct valve or not? The issue is the stem length which is around 15 - 20mm longer on both intake and exhaust. No uninformed suggestions please...just if you have bought or used these valves. Or if you have used other brands of oversize valves for RB25DET only. Cheers, Daniel.