The Dan

Zoom FTW!

yeah Andrew uses Chilton Engineering also. I will never take my engineering work anywhere else and neither will Andrew. Absolutely no better engineer on the planet.

Just a note, I know you didn't need the oil pump any longer but I thought I would mention that removing the lower timing gear using a coal chisel or lever bars is a very bad idea. Just incase someone reads this thread and decides to do it the same way....you WILL f**k the oil pump by doing it that way. On a separate note....did you do an oil pressure test before pulling eveything apart? I would be inclined to think that the oil pumps in these cars don't usually just fail. Not saying it doesn't happen....just there are other more common problems that will bring the light on. You should remove the engine to change the oil pump and if you don't....do not remove the main cradle. You will just be opening up a whole other bad can of worms if you do. In other words...take the engine out and do it properly.

Just finished wiring up another one so I thought I would add something a little more simple. E --> Black/White D --> White/Blue C --> Direct connect to vehicle body using ring terminal etc. B --> Orange/Blue {First colour denotes colour of wire. Second colour is trace colour}

In some cases the clutch can be reconditioned but you would really only bother with a twin or triple plate. Too many people do a half arsed job trying to cut costs when in actual fact it will end up costing you twice as much because the pressure plate has worn out or something similar. Unless you have a multiplate clutch, just replace it with a new one. There are a few different options when it comes to single plate clutches so it's besty to discuss these things over PM or phone. You have my number. Cheers, Daniel.

That's nice....but why are you shouting?

Yes but we're not here to discuss Bob Jones' driving habbits. The point is that this guy was driving like a f**ken wanker. I feel that if someone drove like that around me, THEY would prefer me to start a thread on SAU about it instead of the alternative. The alternative being that I follow them home and beat 9 colours of shit out of them. Sure we all get targetted, who bloody cares. If you're not doing anything wrong then you have nothing to worry about. Oh, that and if your not a dumbass. Why go on about it, or does a topic like this effect you on some personal level. Were you the guy he was referring to? I hate when people drive like wankers and I have driven like one on many occasions. But there is a point where it becomes dangerous and that's what Bob Jones is talking about. As for braking when someone is up your arse, THAT ROCKS. And none of this pansy brake lights on but no brake engagement. I give them the full deal. Let's see who has a decent braking system. Most people who get out of their car at the next set of lights find themselves quickly back in their seat when I get out to meet them halfway.

You should really try not to make comments like this when you have no idea. Who gave you that information? The head was sandblasted and ported and John was fully aware that the head had been on the sandblaster. The head was completely stripped when I gave it to him and I payed in the vacinity of $600 for a complete head service including valve regrind etc. The block and head are at another engineers now after engine failure and it has been found that the gallery plugs have not been removed from the block or head. The gallery plugs were not removed from the crank AS REQUESTED for cleaning, and the cylinders were bored with insufficient clearance for the pistons even though the spec sheet was supplied with the pistons. As a result he destroyed a set of ROSS piston rings He nearly destroyed a full set of brand new ROSS pistons He destroyed every main and conrod bearing. He nearly destroyed a brand new N1 oil pump As I am a man of my word I am covering the engine under warranty. This is costing me around $1000....maybe a little more. So please do not make comments like these when you don't know what really happened. Oh, and I'm not bagging out JHH engineering either....who knows, maybe he just forgot to check that stuff in his old age. Fact is I payed him for a job and he only did half. I know I will never use them again and I will never recommend them to anyone ever again. I think I payed for that right.

It's all good mate, you know I'm only taking the piss. You CAN call me anytime....I'm only here to help. I'll still put on a dress for you if that's what you want.

And then ringing me for help. lol... Hey shane.

What a HORN BAG! I love those cars. You definately should get one mate. Can't argue with pimp cred and the best engine ever made as a combo.

My mobile is 0407 111 229 if you guys run into any problems. I can't come as I have to finish putting in an engine this weekend.

I have a brand new clutch for sale. It is a custom made 6 puk carbodic plate with a pull type Nismo antiburst/antislip pressure plate. The kit includes a new throwout bearing also. Price is $850 firm. Anyone who has priced a standard clutch for their R34 will know that this is around half the cost of a standard replacement at retail price. It still retains the natural pull type setup that the R34 has so no modification is required to make it fit. The clutch was designed to drive like the factory clutch so no extra pedal effort is required and it will hold up to around 400rwkw. Due to the 6 puk design it will also engage the same as a full face organic clutch so it will not be any more difficult to drive with than the factory item. Photos will be sent to email address if requested.

Thanks for the PM. I didn't think Ian would mind seeing as though the thread is already full of crap and wasted space already. lol.

Yes I have many cars to crawl back under.....Migranes are preventing me from working though. What turbos are you after? And what happened to those N1's that you bought?

Should I stand by for your 'please help!' phone call?

Are you talking about the ball joints or the tie rod ends? The ball joint is part of the lower control arm. The tie rod end screws onto the rack end and is used to adjust steering geometry. doesn't really matter which one either as the lower control arm only takes 15 mins to remove...then you just gotta press out/in the ball joint. And the rack ends/tie rod ends only take about 15-30 mins each including setting them up again.

I'd like to know, Jason, which workshop told you that crap about removing half the back of the car? The rack ends and tie rod ends are easily changed without too much drama. If you've never done them before, though, they can look difficult. Rest assured they are quite easy to do.

They will cover their arse as always. Does anyone have any idea how long it takes ethanol to harm your fuel system when it is in a 5% mix? Somewhere around the vacinity of 10 years to notice any effect. You should be replacing your fuel system every 5-7 years anyway.

absolute crock of shite. All of the fuels are made at the Caltex refinery. They are all made via the same process and all use extremely similar additives. Caltex fuels ARE, however, cleaner than all others. BP fuels are produced with power as a priority and Shell fuels are identical to Caltex fuels in almost every way.

Farken hell. Is nothing safe anymore? I usually just disconnect 3 vital signs if I'm leaving the car in a place for a while. But out the front of my house...that's a different story!

Is it just the body mod you are after or the stupid looking cooler at the front as well?

If it's been done properly and according to ADR then any certified modification engineer will approve it. If it hasn't been done properly then it shouldn't be on the road so no-one will.

^^ What he said but I would also check to make sure the belt is still on....sounds silly but it does happen.

Only the special ones, Shane.....only the special ones!