The Dan

To my knowledge the V-spec is the only model with Brembos.

3 bond is even better again. Urethane based instead of silicon based.

Replace them if you can get them easily, but don't stress if you can't.

I was wondering if anyone would be willing to lend me their R33 S1 AFM for an hour or so at some time. It would be on behalf of another member on SAU to help diagnose their problem - or basically just rule out AFM before I go to all the trouble of replacing knock sensors. I will be the person fitting/handling the item at all times and there is a possible monetary motivation included but not confirmed at this point. I can be contacted via email or on 0407 111 229. Thank you in advance.

Why do you need to replace the flywheel bolts? If you absolutely must replace them, only use genuine. You will need to tell them your VIN. I'm not sure if the VL ones are the same but I do know that the VL flywheel is marginally different in some ways.

If you have all the proper tests done, you can diagnose the problem in less than half an hour.

I'll give you $50 for it

umm, look up at the sticky thread at the top of the main page.

Everything is illegal, just depends on the cop that pulls you over.

You can rule out tie rod end if it's not coming through the steering. My money is on the tyre cept a delamination like Terry and Anna experienced is more likely to be felt at lower speeds eg. 40-60. I would just take it to someone who knows what they are looking at and ask for their opinion. If they are nice enough they won't charge you for that.

I have been fitting the GT2876R turbos to the RB20's on the stock manifold. They are a good turbo with great response and output....mind you, it is a hell fight to fit it all unless you have done it all before.

Like nismoid said, it would be cheaper to do the conversion but if you know the right people you can get away with it for around that much. I'm not sure of who in perth can do the job but I doubt there would be many

This topic has already been covered to great extent. Both systems have their pros and cons....it really comes down to three things at the end of the day....which system do you like?, does it perform the functions you require?, and are your local tuners familiar with it?.

Doesn't really matter where he gets them from, they are all illegal and he will void his insurance for fitting them. They are illegal for a reason I might add. I'll try to find some for you as requested Frank but just thought I would point out the not so obvious for some people who might not already know.

I use Bayside hose and fittings but they make everything up for me....not DIY. Pretty much can get any fitting you want and make whatever you want....just gotta give him lengths etc. The other place you might want to try is Catchme performance in Woodridge...tell him I referred you and he'll show you...and be able to sell...the fittings required and how to make them. They do all of their braided work in-house.

I'm not from TV but welcome to sunny QLD anyway.

run a seperate relay with a power feed dirfect from the battery that is switched from the main pump.

I sell all of this stuff as well. The pistons can come locally but most people prefer to wait the 4 weeks for JE, ROSS, or CP. For JE pistons with rings and pins, eagle rods, and HKS camshafts you will be looking at $4000 The Cometic head gasket with VRS set will set you back $700.

Yeah it looks to be something equivalent to a GT2535 - SB8032. These are rated at around 400hp. But the results would suggest a bigger turbo just from the boost you are running...You are probably right about the HKS Hybrid copy thing.

How are you going to tighten it back up once you are done?

Yes it should be. The 20, 25, 26 and 30 are all the same but there was one difference in all of them and that was the power steering belt. Some used a 4 rib belt and some a 3. You have to make sure the balancer matches your application but even if the 30 has a 3 rib for the p/steer, you can still use a 3 rib belt on the 4 rib p/steer pulley. The p/steer is the section on the balancer closest to the front of the car.

300rwkw is doable but not on a budget. I got to 260rwkw with no head modifications, running standard exhaust manifold and inlet manifold etc. You need to ask yourself what you want more: response or hp. There is no turbo out there that will boost 16psi 500rpm after the stock one and be capaable of 500hp. You will need to sacrifice response to reach your target but you could expect full boost at approx 3500rpm. The rest of the engine etc. will be built for strength anyway so you will have plenty of managable power up to 7500rpm.

Not really as it states 'same or GREATER load capacity' This would mean that a stiffer spring would be more likely to be GREATER load capacity.

I don't think the standard ecu is flashable though...or is it? Not 100% on that one. Sam actually desolders the stock chip and replaces it with an EPROM that he can write to.

Didn't he say it only does it at around half boost (~0.4 bar) I doubt the turbo would be surging at this level.