The Dan

start by checking the basics : fuel flow, fuel pressure, check spark plugs, intake etc. Then move on to check BOV after you are sure everything else is fine. If you don't know how to test the above things then you will waste a lot of time trying to solve your problem.

Those turbos should be good for around 600-700hp at all fours on approx 24psi. You still have some way to go yet. Was that graph done on two or four wheels? How much did you pay for the turbos?

You need to test the heater, voltage signal, voltage source, resistance and continuity in the harness What vehicle?

To my knowledge, the consult does not have the capability to change fuel map at different load points but rather a rough adjustment across the board. You can also change base timing but once again, not at different load points, only across the board. The EEPROM upgrade will still remain the best way to do it. I am pretty sure Sam is still the only person who can remap 'on the fly' as well. To make temporary adjustments permanant, you would need some type of laptop or computer device to continuously send data to the given addresses. This, in itself, would end up costing much more than just a remap.

There is no love. Don't worry, you think Greg is your friend now but he will stab you in the back later on. He will say and do things and then deny ever doing or saying it later on. I know of a few other friends he used to have but he shat on them also....all for stupid reasons. But clearly Greg thinks it's a game. And putting signs up on people's cars and doing burnouts at service stations and other equally stupid places is only proof that he is a knob. If he ever cares to grow up then he will see what he has created. And instead of being mature and trying resolve the issue he just hides behind his Dad. I was warned against doing anything for him from the very beginning by people who he called friends and now I know why. I regret ever meeting the little worm.

Hey f**k head, if you have a problem with the clutch then maybe you should ring the people who rebuilt it. Let me guess, you dropped it from 7 grand 20 times and the clutch didn't like it. Geez that's too bad.

If you follow these steps, you should have no problems.... Step 1: Take car to mechanic Step 2: Pick up car from mechanic with injectors changed Step 3: Pay mechanic. Or you can do it yourself, it's more fun when you learn the hard way

waste of time and money. A greddy one will bolt straight on with all the fittings already in place and will only set you back around $1200

Just because fuel comes out, doesn't mean it is ok. Check to make sure you have the correct pressure and flow. Until you test these, you cannot assume your fuel pump is still ok. Your problem sounds fuel related.

Post the following: Maximum boost you wish to run Total power you wish to achieve RPM when you want maximum boost Maximum RPM you will be using.

Why not just repair the burnt section?

One of my V8's might be competing but not sure if he'll have the engine run in intime for the burnout comp. If not then he'll just be attending as a spectator or on the dyno.

stock bottom end is good for about 400hp but to be safe I would be changing to forged pistons. ROSS make custom pistons for the RB20DET and they will set you back around $1500 including rings. I would definately consider the porting you mentioned as every little bit helps with the 20's. You should also have the rods resized to ensure correct fitment and lose the chances of spinning a bearing easily. 8 g's is not really going to satisfy the budget once you get right into it. You should do cams, injectors, AFM upgrades while you are at it and make sure you have a clutch that will do the job. The RB20 gearbox will not last long at 200rwkw so you should also budget for an RB25DET box and fit it at the same time.

Who did the turbo changeover? I can't believe this dodgey crap I am hearing. Sounds like it has been slapped together with no real thought of where things were meant to be going.

mmm, true.

Do they run that viton coating on the Cometic gaskets now? A few years back they were just a straight SS layered gasket.

You are forgetting the block o'ringing and the sealant. There's another $300 worth. And a metal head gasket doesn't seal as effectively as a standard one.

Compression leakdown test first before you take anyone's advice on definate causes. Then do a dye test to be sure. Takes about 1/2 an hour to do both and the results are 100% accurate.

Happy birthday mate, you need everything in the list so I would just get everything and be happy. If you can't enjoy your car, what can you enjoy?

He only just blew his turbo last week. He was running 24psi through it. I think you might find it is the same one.

Bugatti did it. The Veyron does it in under 14 seconds. It has 922ft/lbs of torque from 2200rpm to 5500rpm and clocks in at a downtuned 1000hp. Get your skyline to do that and I guess you'll come very close.

On the second turbo, larger than a highflow but you would need to run around 16 psi to make around 320hp at the wheels. Anything more than that and it comes out of it's efficiency range. This is based on a 7k rpm max.

First one is not that much bigger than stock...if at all. It is T3 ex in and T3 ex out so it will fit straight up. Your RB25 turbo would probably do just as well Jason.

I hate being scammed

I have been running the AFM after the IC for a couple of years now and the results are much nicer than you would think. Throttle response improved and no more rich spot when the BOV let go. I ran over 20psi through mine and it had no adverse effect on the AFM at all. The whole thing with the BOV not effecting it is because the air between the air filter and the turbo acts like a giant spring. This is what causes the AFM to go psycho and cause the engine to stall. When the throttle snaps shut, the BOV opens and the air passes out. While it is doing this, the turbo is still pushing some air. This is still measured by the AFM but the air doesn't bounce around like a spring as it would before the turbo. Then when the BOV shuts the throttle is open again and the air continues to move.