The Dan

you must have both knock sensors hooked up. If not then the computer will go into knock retard. You will have nothing until about 4800rpm then it will hit you in the arse til about 6k and dies off severely.

short means just the block long means including head etc.

The GTR's work best usually on 4° retard ex and up to 6° advance in. But as Nismoid said, yours is not a 26 and you should always start from zero. 20's are usually good on 4° retard ex and 0° in and 25's 0° all round.

90 decibels in QLD, should be about the same in NSW and VIC

The pin configuration is different but as long as you are handy with a soldering iron, you should be able to work it out yourself P.S. It won't work on the stock ECU, only aftermarket.

AFM stands for Air Flow Meter. Which is technically incorrect in this case as the Nissan unit uses a hot wire setup which should be referred to as Mass Air Flow Meter or MAF meter.

Well not actually because a decent ECU that utilises the MAP sensor will set you back around a minimum of $2000 installed. Then the tune on top. So he would, in fact, be outlaying more money for it. There is nothing wrong with an AFM, there is also nothing wrong with a MAP sensor. Both have their pros and both have their cons. You can make more HP from a MAP setup but his aim is only for 250-300rwkw so the Afm would do just fine.

You are better off going for some Nismo ones. Will cost about $900 all up and fit straight in. Cams will also be required for a safe 250rwkw and I would be budgeting $15k for the whole lot including labour

that is a good price. Does it also come with the oil pump, oil filter housing, rear main seal housing, knock sensors, cradle etc?

Yeah gotta love the whale races.....I mean Bathurst. When are they gonna let some real cars back in?

It is a one way valve. That is all. They could have incorporated soe type of filtering device into it but you should find that you can blow through it but not suck.

How much is a tad more?

I get that crap all the time....while I'm working on cars etc. just because there are like 4 other skylines in the front yard aside from the one I'm working on at the time. People drive past and yell shit out at me like that. Or 'Imports suck!' and they drive a bloody Honda lol. Got their just dessert though....two fags in a falcon yelled out 'Jap shit!' but there was an unmarked polic car behind them, so I waved at them as they got pulled over. Most likely because half his body was hanging out of the car at the time.

Power steer pump is different and is a totally different setup. Do you have a reason for wanting to do a swap like that?

You can just remove one half at a time....to install literally takes about 10 minutes, so to answer you question, you can just lower it. They are superpro and I am located in Brisbane's south I will get pics tomorrow ( I keep them at work )...and they are Polyurethane I will try to sort out some installation instructions and post them up

Very good, all must be well. But you are only band-aid fixing the problem. If your coil packs are failing - replace them. If your tyres are bald - replace them. If your brake pads wear out, guess what - replace them. I'm not blabbing my mouth about it being the wrong thing to do. Every second thread is about spark plug gap and bloody heat range questions. All I'm trying to do is stop people jumping on the band wagon to regap and change heat range of their plugs. I have customers with virtually standard cars ask me all the time whether they should do these things and the answer is most definately no....unless you have done some, at least, mild modifications - there is no reason for the ignition source to be insufficient as the coil packs are made to outperform their requirements from factory. Sure, when they get as old as they are you are bound to have some problems with them. And if you are so sure of this apparent 'common fault' then why do you direct people to just tape up the packs and reduce the gap. What happens when the coil packs fail almost completely, what are you going to tell everyone? reduce the gap to 0.2mm, run a heat range of 9 and put 2 rolls of electrical tape round each pack? That shit is just dodgey. There is nothing wrong with re-gapping your plugs to 0.8mm, go for it. There is also nothing wrong with changing from a heat range of 5 to a 6, because as I previously stated, it was the jump of 2 heat ranges that I was referring to. But you are still missing the bigger picture here. I am not goin off at anyone but merely trying to educate some poeple to the fact that just because you have a skyline with an exhaust and pod filter, doesn't mean you have to regap your plugs. If you need to regap them with literally no mods like this, then you obviously have another underlying problem which requires attention.

99% of the RB cams have the star at the base and the halfmoon on top.

Do half a job and you will get half as good a result. RX7 injectors are very unreliable. Especially the S4/5 ones. They only operate effectively to a duty cycle of 60%. A set of sard 550cc injectors you can get for $750 delivered to your door. Why would you mess around with anything less?

Ok I cannot go any further without clearing this up once and for all. I constantly see people posting threads about spark plugs, their heat ranges and gap specs. 3 things - 1: Only use the spark plug listed for your vehicle or a derivative of that ie. Iridium etc. 2: The heat range from FACTORY is 5 on an NGK plug for every R3* skyline except the GTR's and R34 NEO 6 which use a 6 3: The FACTORY gap setting for these spark plugs is 1.1mm Why the hell do I keep seeing people talking about regapping their plugs to 0.8mm. Why don't we all jump on the band wagon and gap our plugs to 0.8mm instead of the factory spec of 1.1mm because we saw a thread about it from some guy on the other side of the country. The whole idea of setting your gap is to create the LARGEST POSSIBLE GAP without losing spark efficiency. Next is the heat range.....Nissan spend millions on product development each year....why? So some backyarder can mess with the settings? NO! The heat range is there for a reason, go too hot or too cold and you will foul the plug and the car will run like a bucket of shit. Probably more so because you have set your freakin gap to 0.8mm aswell coz Joe bloggs told you it was a good thing to do at the time. But I see people running a heat range of 7...why would you jump 2 whole heat ranges? Most of the time you only have a stock standard car anyway, cept for the pod and zorst Bit of a guidline here for newcomers. PAY ATTENTION TO THIS PART. The only reason you need to reduce the gap of your spark plug by THAT much is if you are running large amounts of boost etc. The reason for this is because cylinder pressure has exceeded manufacturers specs and therefore there is more current required to arc across the same gap....and because we cannot amplify our spark at will, we require a smaller gap so less effort is required to arc across it. Just a bit of a general guideline - If you are running 12psi or less, you shouldn't need any less than 1.0mm spark plug gap. Running 12-16psi ~ 0.9mm gap and 16-20psi ~ 0.8-0.7mm gap. Of course there are other variables but we won't get into that right now. The whole point of this is to educate some people so they don't just 'do what everyone else does'. As for the heat range, you should have no need to run such a cold plug as a 7 unless aforementioned cylinder pressures GREATLY exceed manufacturers specs. Set the gap and the heat range to suit your application! By running a smaller gap than required you will not only LOSE HORSEPOWER but you will also effectively cause the coil packs to develop more heat. By running a heat range that is not suited to your application your plugs will foul quickly, causing the car to idle rough and not combust the fuel/air mix effectively, thus LOSING HORSEPOWER. Thank you for your time.

I have 10 full sets. $70 each set. These are all brand new....not second hand. Will post to anywhere in Oz for this price One set comprises 4 bushes that are two different sizes. These greatly inhance the rear stiffness of the vehicle and in most cases will improve traction and 1/4 mile times by up to 1 second. Great also for drifting as the new stiffer rear end will tend to slide more easily once traction has been broken.

You'll need more than some

People are safely running 14 psi through the DE bottom ends on turbos of similar size down in Melbourne. Making 260rwkw. I have not seen it, however, but this is what I was told. Running more than this would be detrimental to your engine's health. That is also assuming the bottom end is not already "TIRED". I don't think you will reach that hp figure but good luck with it anyway.

I know a GTR running N1's / power FC / Injectors / exhaust getting 385rwhp on 1 bar. Something is wrong there mate.

Ok now that is over.... The fact is that I have done the tests and I know the results. You can run 20psi constantly on an RB25. But like I said in my earlier post, as long as all ancillaries and tuning is correct. The standard AFM is just capable of handling boost pressures around 14psi because the power output would require an airflow of greater value than the standard AFM can measure. If your RB25 is making 210rwkw then the amount of air required to create that horsepower is enough to max out the standard AFM. This is an example of an ancillary that is incorrect.

What happens to people already on their P's who are already driving around in high powered cars? Do they have any kind of restriction?