The Dan

Welcome mate! Hope you enjoy it in sunny queensland. Might see you around on a cruise some time.

To start with you should only be running an iriway 6. The standard listed plug is a 5 so having 7's can be causing you problems. It's too great a jump to a colder plug. Try investing in another set of BCPR6ES-11's, gap 'em to 0.8 if you are running more than 12psi boost and see if it helps. If you are running 12 or less boost then keep them at 1.1. Go to any repco and ring me on the mobile and I'll give them my account number. You can have them for trade. Should only be about $3 each.

A pair of 20/25's are usually good for 400rwkw Z32's are tunable up to around 600hp each from what Bosch tell me

Exhaust leak from manifold etc. Faulty knock sensors/AFM/TPS. Faulty turbo or turbo too large.

It's like moving into a house next to an airport. I'd like to see them close down an airport, something that makes the government millions of dollars a year. Maybe they could find some way to TAX the events. Then again, maybe not.

Faulty wiring connection maybe? Might be time to start swapping parts as you look like you have covered everything else. Not my idea of the best way to solve the problem but sometimes it's the only way you'll ever find it. What work has been done to the car?.....I mean every single thing that has been done, right down to the wiper blades being changed.

Another typical outburst by one of our finest. hahaha Go read another magazine fool.

Hope you don't want to rev it. 99% of one piece tailshafts go critical after 6500rpm unless they have extra thick tubing.

incorrect

Ping is pretty much a shortened term for PRE-IGNITION. I kinda sounds like a shaker in a spray can but more dull. As above but a few things to add. Pinging can be caused by ignition timing too far in advance, hot spots in the cylinder head (usually caused by dodgy porting), lean fuel mixtures or not enough octane rating in the fuel being used. All of these things can cause the fuel/air mix to pre-ignite. To rectify it you need to find out which one is causing the problem and alter it. Most of the time it is poor fuel quality or ignition timing. You will find that it will ping more so when the engine is producing most of its torque so it will disappear before 6000rpm most of the time.

Standard RB engine can easily handle upwards of 20psi as long as the tune is fine and all ancillaries are working correctly.

The dimensions of the seal required is 40 X 52 X 7 This seal is used for ALL RB30's/25's/26's and 20's

But he is trying to find out what engine model it is. How is knowing airbags etc. going to help to figure that out? And RB_SANDY - WTF does it matter anyway? You should have more than enough information to work it out by now.

yeah I know...but it's still too high in KW

anything up to 15 in a perfect world

I think you have another problem....unrelated maybe. The only other things around that the belt could damage would be the AFM possibly but doubt it. I know you were checking it in the dark on the side of the road but thought I would point out that hearing the pump doesn't mean the engine is getting fuel. Also how did you test spark? And are you certain the belt threw because it was old? Would be good to see what the problem ends up being.

Looks to me like it was built on 3/04/1994

Also if the AFM is being maxed out for any reason it will cut ignition around that mark also. Feels the same except you must back off the throttle before it will let you accelerate again, whereas with the speed cut it just won't let you go past 180. I would get it tested for voltage maxing out (5.1V).

The closer to the turbo the better.

Add some cams or you are dreaming

lol...yeah I laugh every time someone tells me they have a walbro. Wow 255L per hour....that's good if you never come off idle. Add some realistic pressure and the pump only flows a maximum of 170L/hr. I still don't think the stock injectors are capable of any more than 230rwkw but then again people told me 210 on my rb20 ones was bullshit....so I guess I have to keep an open mind. Still would have to see it to believe it.

mmmm cracked and melted. Your username is somewhat appropriate lol.

series 2 have 3 bolt coil packs. series 1 have 4. I don't believe series 1 have variable cam timing As R31Nismoid said...no ignition amplifier present on series 2

Stock injectors.....right.

go buy a can of aerostart and spray it all around where the sound is coming from. When you hear the idle change, you will find your leak.