The Dan

I think the TT supras run the same size turbos. They are just gated differently.

And make sure if you get one done that you don't run off to an engineer and lie about the results to make someone look bad.

I would start by doing what Nismoid said...check spark plugs. Then move on to check you fuel setup. Is your pump flowing enough or at all? You need to chekc basics before you start spending a whole day sorting out 'common faults' and hoping you nail it.

Ring 101 motorcafe and talk to Rob. He tuned one a couple of months back with the exact same and it made 302rwkw on 14psi.

No it's the inlet cam.....as stated above.

You must be doing something else wrong. Make sure you have not snapped off the locating half dowel on the cam end. If you have then you can put the CAS in any position and it will not start until you get it right.

The 707160-5 in a pair combination is good for 700hp at all fours as proven to me on a dyno. Brisbane tuning and turbo centre. The -7 will come one boost slightly earlier and sharper. The -5 has a smooth deceptive power curve. The -7 is basically just the N1 whereas the -5 is an upgrade to that turbo. People who I have sold these -5's to have been wrapped in their performance. Most of whom had come from such turbos as the -7 already.

Looks like you have some kind of ignition problem there Terry.

1.5 has it also. And I agree, needs a dyno to be set correctly.

Isn't 11.8 richer than 12.1? Off topic I know but thought I would mention it.

You can re-gap them as long as you don't force the feeler guages into the gap when checking gap. This can chip the coating. Also be careful not to pry open the gap with the feeler guages as this can snap the tip of the platinum plug. Use something like a pair of pliers to carefully open the gap if required.

remove the small water hose which runs into the throttle body (just pull it off slightly) and, withthe radiator full AND WITH THE CAP ON, squeeze the lower radiator hose. While holding the hose in the squeezed position...replace the throttle body hose, remove the radiator cap then let go of the lower hose. Repeat if necessary.

The stud breaks because the leak was already there or because of an oil leak over the stud in question. So to answer your question - yes it will cause boost issues.....it will also effect air/fuel ratio readings. If one stud is broken you will be looking at around 4 -5 hours but the thread guy will not remove the turbo and manifold for you...you'll have to do it yourself or get someone else to do it.

From what I have seen with the cefiro, they have a tad more engine space than the GTR in width so you should have no issues. If you have 2-3cm clearance between the turbo and the strut tower...they will come out.

around 8 degrees is the maximum that I would allow. You will not need anywhere near that though. You should only be aiming for about 2 degrees on the exhaust side. And if you have VCT on your 33 then the inlet cam gear is already adjustable and the aftermarket one will not fit.

The engine will still rev past 3 if one of the pipes comes loose or there is a small hole. Check to make sure your AFM is connected properly and spray some aerostart around all the pipe connections while the engine is running just to be sure. Also check your Catalytic converter to make sure it might not be blocked. Might just be a coincedence that it happened at the same time as the accident. As for the CAS...why would it be the CAS when there was hardly even damage to the bumper?

yeah rusted valve and plug tip would most likely indicate a water leak on that cylinder. There is also some discolouration on the gaskets mating surface between the bore and water jacket.

That is not causing your problem.

What about a blown head gasket? do a test with all plugs out dry and all but one plugs in dry then note differences.

It's like commodore and falcon drivers.....they only get cut and abuse you because you hand their arse to them without even trying. Half the people on here can pull their head in. The whole point of this thread was to see the maximum hp that could be made out of the RB25 before it went pop. Any disbelievers were invited to pay for a stripdown. There is no harm in doing research like this if you have the money and time. I'd get an attitude too if every second know-it-all put his 2 cents in about crap that didn't even relate to the topic's title. Or people who only comment because they are scared of what they don't know.

Of course, start with a cold start mechanical guage reading. The results of that will determine whether you keep looking for problems or not.

To start with, why does everyone assume the stock turbo just pushes hot air around after 14psi. What a crock of shit. What I would like to know is....how do you make 220rwkw using the stock AFM which maxes voltage at a required airflow of 210rwkw on that engine?

Hey mate don't get me wrong. I agree with you. The pistons are cast. I just noticed the marks and wondered what it may have been caused by. I went back and read the whole thread and realized what all this crap is about. I say good on you. People tell me nearly every day, why bother with an RB20? I am making 260rwkw outta mine and there is definately more to come...everyone discounts them and says "Why not just put in an RB25 and make some real power?" Well screw that, easy way out. Good on you and all you have done. Keep doing it and shove it in people's faces. And R31NISMOID.....You keep going on about reliability? WTF You of all people I didn't think I would have to say this....read the topic title! He has made no claim to reliability but seems to me you are almost eating your words....look how long it has lasted. Now maybe people won't be so scared to crack 300rwkw on their 25.

And you blew the head gasket on 5 too. Plus the pistons in the above photos do look sus. sure they have carbon build up which is normal but what about the marks on the inlet side?

If you highflow the stock turbo ($1750) they will replace the shaft and turbine wheel with steel ones. The housings are bored to a larger diameter to fit the larger wheels and can be left alone or cropped to move the power curve further up the rev range. Highflows are good for around 18 psi reliably.