The Dan

Thursday is out as I have dyno tuning. Monday, Tuesday is good but weekend is out. Just book me in and let me know Ben. Any chances of catching a 7pm ish time as I finish at 5pm and to get to indro at 6 will be a feat of driving extraordinaire. Not that I can't do it of course....just saying.

That is a custom made jobby from hpiab. They are a VG30 second hand rear housing from memory. Garrett is just about to release the intrnal gated GT30R this month. I should find out this week. In answer to your question though...the turbo will need to be spaced away as the comp housing is rather large. The oil and water lines will need to be made up. I suggest braided. These can be made for around the $250 mark. The inlet will also have to be changed due to the large turbo mouth.The dump pipe angle will also change so you might have to cut it under the car and rotate then re-attach.

Anyone for some blinker fluid? http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=...2&products_id=6

your engine will run slightly off tune until it is corrected. Try running an engine oil flush in an attempt to clean them out.

Sorry, I did read that the day you posted but forgot when I posted today. Did you reset the ECU after the install of the other AFM? Sometimes a leaking injector can cause starting issues as they leak before the initial start and 'flood' the bore which can make it difficult to start. Also does it make any difference if you wait for the pump to prime, then start? Very dirty air filter can cause hard start. Dirty throttle body....unlikely but possible

The 387 is the listed part for the RB20DET but you can use any of the fuel filter of the same diameter. The 33's do take a z200 but only in the GTST from memory. The GTR still retained the Z387. Make sure you buy two meters of EFI fuel hose too. Usually they are perished anyway and for the extra $20 it makes it easier when you change it over. The hose takes 3 days to get off so it's easier if you undo the clamp, move the clamp away and use a stanley knife to cut the hose lengthways. This will make the hose literally fall off. Then you just cut same length pieces for the new filter and pre clamp them before installing.

I'll keep an eye out mate. They can't just grow legs and walk right?

Hmmm, might bring my GTR in for a rebuild.

Should be a Z387.

If the fuel system comes up ok, check your plugs for any rustyness and also try to swap AFM's with someone as they can cause hard starting when faulty.

The ECU reset does not always improve things from when they come over from Japan as 9/10 they change the battery to start the bastard when it comes off the boat and it has already lost it's memory from the self learn previously. As for the "re-connect battery and fang", this is totally incorrect, you don't fang it around once it has been reset, you must drive it in all types of conditions. Cruising and power on. The factory computer DOES have a self learn procedure and it DOES improve driveability once it has re-learnt after a certain time. You have other issues though. Have you changed your fuel filter lately, checked spark plugs? The fuel pumps are nearly always screwed so that could be your problem. Coil packs fail all the time. Don't expect the reset to make things better if there is a problem because the ECU will only learn around them. Then you will have problems once they are fixed.

The stock injectors will be running max at 230-240rwkw....they cannot handle more than that. As for the turbo...I resell the GT3582R for $1750. For 10 grand plus ECU and intercooler.....so in oher words 12 grand I can do the same setup as I am doing now on DOU33's and running 14psi you will make 300rwkw. I cannot guarantee it's reliability at that but the 25's I have seen a few tuned to 450rwhp and have run that for longer than 12 months on stock bottom end. To make your car be able to handle the GT35R you really need to do everything from fuel system up to cams. Without these, you are wasting your time as you will max out at 210rwkw and run lean the whole way.

stock inj are good for 230-240 stock AFM maxes at near 210 Cams at 235 16psi boost on that turbo with computer, cams, AFM and inj upgrade will get you 320rwkw. Without upgrading any of these things will cause the Boom you speak of. This should be interesting to watch.

a fuel filter can also have the same symptoms as a worn out coilpack. Have had that happen a couple of times. I would upgrade the pump as it is a common place to fail once they get to that age.

I have one on my toolbox.

Before you direct people to do stupid things, you should get your information correct. The factory heat range is 5, has he mentioned anything to indicate needing a colder plug? I'm sure Nissan don't spend millions on research and development for nothing.

GT30R - 14psi. GT2876R - 18psi Highflow - 18psi Make sure you have the fuel setup to back up your turbo selection. The ONLY thing that will kill an RB is lean out.....to a certain extent mind you....of course 550rwkw also has adverse effects on the block but that's a different story.

I have had coil packs behaving differently nearly every time but most of them had the same complaint of coming clean after 6k. Always ended up being the packs. The trouble with diagnosing things over the internet is that I take for granted that I have the knowledge to solve any of my problems but also assume that people, at least, know the basics. I assume simple things like spark plugs checked, fuel filter changed, pipework checked for leaks has already been done before a person asks a question on these forums. Whether it ever happens that way...I'm not sure.

My post explains why it goes away after 6k

It's written on top of the coil pack where the wiring harness plugs in.

Get over it dude.

Also why would you scrub out the Ambiant temps and inlet temps unless you have something to hide? Me thinks you are only making 180rwkw and your tuner put the sensor on your exhaust.

Firstly...you will not make 250 + rwkw on a GCG highflow. 250 would be an absolute maximum. Secondly...I can do the same job for you for $1750 plus postage (around $20-$40)

lol....serioulsy mate, you don't just pull out the coil packs, look at them and say 'yep they look fine' and cram 'em back in. You need to do a resistance check to see if they are failing. Using a multimeter, place the settings to ohms and put the terminals on the + and -. The resistance should be between 0.6 ohms and 0.9 ohms, however, anything up to 2 ohms can SOMETIMES still be ok. I have seen them operate efficiently at this reading. Try to test them when they are hot as this will give you a more accurate reading as sometimes they do not fail until they are hot. The reason it only happens between 5 and 6 is because this is when your engine is producing it's maximum torque and most of the load is on the engine at that time. Same as when you are going up hills. There is a posibility that it could be spark plugs, ign amplifier, wiring etc. but for a common fault I would start there....pull the plugs out anyway and inspect them....post detailed photos of them and I can tell you what your engine is doing.