The Dan

Coil packs

S/H Ninja - you said your AFM was maxing out before? The stock AFM should max out at around 200-205 so it would have been well worth your while upgrading to a z32 and getting the appropriate chip to suit. Try winding 4th right out to redline and see if it actually gets there without cutting ignition. When the AFM voltage reaches 5.1V for 3 secs or more your ECU should automatically cut power. Plus the most you'll ever see out of a set of RB20 stock injectors is 205-208 rwkw so those injectors of yours would be running at 100% or more which is dangerous if the fuel system decides to hiccup for a split second.

My rule. And that would be the same rule they use to design turbos and rate them accordingly. A 3 inch exhaust is enough to sufficiently remove gases from an engine producing 600hp....this is roughly of course but is a good general indication of the system you will require. In most cases the swap to a 3.5inch would see a gain only in the CAT upsize as this is the largest restriction. Unless the people who made the 20rwkw gain aren't running a cat. It would be silly to say 'oh I've got 380rwkw so I should be good for a 3 inch system' Just because your injectors flow at 550cc or 700cc, doesn't mean you run them at 100% because they can flow that. Anything around the 350rwkw mark and you would automatically upgrade to a larger size.

Not that simple I'm afraid. You can get them out without taking the plenum off but it usually takes the same amount in stuff around time if you do it that way anyway. The injectors need to be removed in a specific way. Take the caps off, turn them sideways (so they face the end of the rail) and then grab a LARGE screwdriver, place it between the base of the plug and the rail....make sure t's right in there...then twist. Out she pops. Repeat 6 times lol. The tricky part is on re-install....you MUST drown the injector seals in lubricant and lube up the injector tubes (in the rail) otherwise you risk pinching the o rings. Don't forget to swap the old o rings to the new injectors or get some new ones. Place the injectors in their respective hole and push hard....if lubricated properly they should POP into place. The gasket shoul dbe able to be re-used for the plenum if you unbolt it....it is made of rubber so give it a LIGHT coat of sealant on re-assembly.

Those kits are $3400 delivered and are a good bolt on. Everything is provided so nothing extra will be needed. The maximum you should see that turbo to will be 300rwkw....no more This is good for a low 12/ high 11 anyway. You wold need to be running in the vacinity of 22psi boost to get that but it's still possible. As for response...should be almost better than stock.

For 250 awkw on a GTS4 you will need the following: - 040 Pump - Pon or Step 1 cams - Z32 AFM - Full exhaust system 3 inch from turbo back - FMIC ( I recommend PWR for an almost direct bolt up ) - NEW Turbo ( highflow will not achieve the desired result ) - something rated at around 400hp or more I also recommend a forged piston rebuild for durability but that's entirely up to you. Stock engine should be ok up to 280rwkw as long as the head gasket is perfect and you install an oil cooler of some sort.

The car will still run on 550's with the stock injector tune. Clips is your best bet

Also, what is the link to the GT2835 kit....or where is it to be found?

while the head is off I would be doing some extensive porting along side the upgraded valve springs you'll need. Consider larger valves as well. If you are local to Brisbane I only recommend John White Race Engines for porting on the RB's. He is located in Holden ST Woolloongabba.

I'm doing a similar setup to this on a car at the moment and I can tell you now that the GT30R will perform every bit as well on the street. If you get the 0.6 rear housing your boost will still come on early and hold nicely to 7500. I would check with them whether the kit includes intake adaptor piping (turbo has a 4inch mouth). Also check to make sure the dump pipe is included (most likely not). BTW I can do that same kit they offer for $3000 or $3150 with a Tial 44mm gate. Then you need $200 for the intake mod (including 4 inch K&N filter). Another roughly $480 for the stainless piping to do the intercooler piping (engine bay) and exhaust from turbo back to cat in 3 inch. Another $215 in silicon hose adaptors and t-bolt clamps. Then labour ro fit it all. Your standard intake will not work with the GT30R in place on a highmount. Neither will your exhaust. Your total would look something like $4775 fitted. Having said this, though, the standard AFM will have trouble handling anything above 210rwkw, I would recommend cams if you want anything over 230rwkw. A set of pon cams go for around $900 delivered from Japan, Z32 AFM will set you back $400 brand new. That 040 should do the trick up to 300rwkw but I would upgrade your whole fuel system if you expect the engine to last. An RB25DET should only be good for about 300rwkw on a stock bottom end.

As a general rule, a 3" exhaust is good for 600 engine hp. That equals around 380rwkw. As for running larger dump pipes. There is absolutely no need in running anything more than a 1/4 inch larger diameter than the turbine wheel anyway. Any of the 600hp turbos out there should have a fairly large turbine wheel and a 3" usually goes straight up. 3.5 inch is just stupid unless you are chasing 400rwkw or more.

I could take a look but you'll have to email that video to me. I cannot view it via the link you have provided. As for the Walbro pump...I think you've just answered your problem. I would literally not piss on one if it caught fire.

My G/F's Father does roadworthies. He works for himself but uses Lees Exhausts as a workshop to do it. If you ring Lees Exhausts in Moss St Slacks Creek, ask for Bob and tell him that Daniel told you to call. He is a very fair bloke and will never do the wrong thing by you. As long as the car is neat and tidy and there is nothing absolutely knackered on it, all will be ok.

You'll probably find they are about $1850-$1900 for the BB and $1500-$1600 for Journal bearing. They were last month anyway.

Are you sure it's a misfire? Many people just use this term for lack of a better descriptive word. Won't rev over 4500 grand would indicate that it won't, or has trouble, revving over 4500 grand, not misfire. Check basics first like fuel pump (pressure and flow). So many of you are concerned with a spark issue but it takes more than spark to make a car run. CHECK BASICS!

What is an oil catch can going to do for him? Your O2 sensor controls idle settings, then after around 1500-2000rpm the AFM takes over. The AFM is a very likely cause but don't rule out something simple like an O2 sensor.

I can't believe you said that. rofl.

Crap...beat me to it lol

Should be 240 degree with a 7.8mm lift

They actually aren't the same. The new literature might have been the reason for the name change but the 2860R is the 707160-5 (which you said) but the 2560R is Garrett's reference to the highflow GTR turbo. They actually use your stock exhaust housing and match it up to the 28 front. It does work out to be ever so slightly smaller in size than the 707160-5. The 2560's are good for about 600 awhp whereas the 2860's are good for about 700 and they have a very deceptive power curve.

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make sure you wind it fully out to it's least spring tension before you start driving it around. Then you adjust it 1 turn at a time until the desired boost level is reached.

Why do you need a drysump to rev to 9k. My Rb20DET revs to 9k several times a day with no hassles.

Rb30DET is not the answer. The 25 has a greater flowing head than all the others so it is by far the best choice for modification. You can go to an RB30 bottom end and retain the 25 head which has proven itself many times before. There are some problems in block design that need to be remedied before you could consider it a reliable option. You will need around 2 grand to spend on porting and you will also need a decent cam like a HKS step 2 or step 3 if you want the funky idle. Retain the standard crank and rods but have them shot peaned and nitrided or cryo treated. There is absolutely no need to go to 2.7 or 2.8 litres to achieve a small figure like 400rwkw. The GT35R you have will max out at approx 450rwkw anyway so you'll probably need to be running in excess of 24psi to get your 400. This means dish pistons. Don't muck around with gay metal head gaskets coz they are a waste of time and are not as durable as the standard factory head gasket. You will also need a full ARP stud kit for the entire engine. Make sure you tackle issues like oil control in the head with your engineer as this is a major issue in the RB's. Not only getting the oil in there but getting it out again. If you want the engine to be reliable at that hp figure you should consider AT LEAST an N1 oil pump but I would highly recommend a JUN item which will definately outlast the N1. You are going to need to upgrade your throttle body at least and should use an aftermarket plennum while your doing it. All of the inlet piping will need to be 3 inch and the intercooler should be an efficient bar and plate design or something at least 600 x 350 x 100. PWR make some very nice coolers that will do the job nicely. Don't forget about driveline either as the standard g/box will need to be upgraded to dog engagement and you will also need a decent twin plate like the one I sold R33skyliner. It is the same one used in Mark Jacobson's 9 sec GTR. Don't worry about the driveshaft too much and definately don't go to a one piece tailshaft if you want to be able to rev the engine past 7 grand. One piece 3 inch tailshafts go critical at around 6500 so big bangs can happen after this point. It is better to retain the original unit but upgrade the centre bearing and unis.

Same here please Edited by Mud