The Dan

It's not due to tubular manifold....I was using that as a seperate example. The heat wrapping or coating will hold 30% more heat than an unwrapped/coated system

could be that or coils do a resistance check on the coils

I have seen the 707160-5's make 700hp at all fours. They are a brilliant turbo but have a very deceptive power curve. Smooth and gradual rather than the sharp smack you get from the 2530's. I have also seen 400hp at all four on a 32 GTR running N1's at 16 psi. These are also a good option if you are after something for near stock response. These are a 707160-7 Both are $1350 each so the choice is....do you want to have a smooth, gradual power curve or a sharp tyre tearing power increase at 4.5k My 2c

That part number is a 2860R...not a 2560R

Cop this! http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

You guys are barking totally up the wrong tree...those part numbers are N1's. They are the smaller in the GT2860R range which is standard fitment on the R34 GTR N1.

It's a 12V pump, running it at 13.8 volts does not do anything except heat it up more. You need to cut the earth wire to the pump and direct earth it to the body in the boot somewhere. This removes the dropping resistor from the equation. The resistor is what drops pump speed when you come to idle.

32, 33 and 34 are all interchangeable

You won't be able to tell the condition of the AFM by testing the voltages in this case. The voltages can read fine but the AFM can still be fubar. You need to get your hands on a swapsy.

As long as the turbo was pre-oiled before startup then no damage would have been done. Make sure you start the car and wait at least 30 seconds before driving at any level of boost as you need this time for the oil to sufficiently lubricate the bearings.

I'll second all of that

Increasing the A/R size will give you a better mid to top end....depending on how far you go. I'm pretty sure the rear housing standard is 0.63...not 0.64. The most you will be able to "customise" from a standard turbo will be the highflow option which will mean a t3 shaft milled down with 360 degree thrust, steel wheel, machined housings to suit larger diameter wheels and "crop" the rear wheel to allow better flow. This will bring the boost on a little later but will much improve your mid to top end. If you have a series 2 R32 or higher then the standard turbo will be a ball bearing one in which case forget the 360 degree thrust mumbo. I do the highflows for $1750 on the RB's.

It is dyno proven that the more heat you can keep inside the manifold, the more efficient the results will be. You will not only spool faster but reach full boost quicker as the pressure difference is somewhere around 30% not 0.5%. That is why most people complain about power loss after swapping their cast manifold for a custom stainless one, because cast holds the heat in for longer whereas the stainless will dissipate it more quickly. As you already know, it is heat that drives the turbine....so the more you can get into the housing...the better.

T/body diameter should be the same for both. There is no point going to 3 inch pipe work unless you are doing a major upgrade and seeking more than 400hp at the wheels. There is also no point upgrading the pipework if you are running standard cams as your hp limit will be around 230-240rwkw anyway and the 2 1/2 inch piping is more than capable of handling up to 300rwkw and over. The outlet on the turbo should only be around 2 - 2 1/4 inch as well so adjusting for some expansion would take you to the optimum diameter of 2.5

The 3 1/2 will be to big, you should only have 2 1/2 inch intercooler piping anyway. It is a bit of a squeeze but it does fit through on a 3 inch hole saw.

Just sneaking in a hello while the boss is out.

What's the part number for the coil packs?

I'm IIIIIIIINNNNN!!!!!!!

How am I supposed to fix your car if I throw away all my spanners Frank?

Yeah just thought I had done something...not sure. I was just crossing the road at the time. Wasn't even in my car. Standing completely off the road and he just drives towards me fast then swerves away and yells something along the lines of 'blah..blah...import..some other blah....top bloke...blah. Maybe he was offended by my hard working stench. Yes Terry, that would be good. Just hold him til I get there but feel free to issue random beatings .

I'm in if the missus is. And her condition on coming will be car not stalling which means I am relying on Nengun to get their arses into gear and deliver my AFM. Put me down for now though Mark.

Just wondering if anyone from here owns a white 32 sedan with rear wing missing and lives around the wynnum area. If you were driving around the back of KFC the other night. Can you tell me what it was you said to me as you swerved at me and drove past?

Are you referring to the pivot ball? If so you can put in up on a hoist and tighten it up with a 17mm spanner. Make sure the ball is intact as they often come away from the attaching shaft.

Yeah sorry mate. I cannot get a hold of him. Take it somewhere and get a quote done. I'll scrap the labour and paint you still owe me, I just want to get it fixed and I'm sure you do too.