The Dan

Where'd you get yours from Greg?

Doug is exactly the same. Only difference is that Doug doesn't bag out Jim but Jim bags out Nick's Clutch Service. Both are very good at what they do...the best in fact. Both are great for info. And yes...Doug does do the Carbon clutches. I assume you are referring to the ATS style ones?

That turbo will only make about 250rwkw on about 18-19psi. Should be getting very close to max by that point.

It's all good. I know Jim Berry is one of the best. I also know Doug is just as good. Not saying either is better than the other but I have used clutches made from both on many occasions so I know first hand. It's not like I would bag Jim out or anything, I have massive respect for him....I just prefer to use Doug as he has always looked after me and I know you are the same with Jim. BTW...what was the big call?

I don't know anyone who has used one of these. Are you aware that you will have to change your dump pipe to suit the V-band configuration? Not a bad setup otherwise.....nice and cheap too by the look of things.

I smashed my Rb20box....still drives. Typically the problem areas are as follows. Gearset too weak Synchros too weak Bearings too weak Input shaft too weak Pretty much the best way to strengthen an RB20 box is to throw it away and buy an RB25 one. Unless you have about 6-7 grand to play with. The standard 20 box can handle 200rwkw day in and day out as long as you don't smash second too hard. Mine went 2 years on 200rwkw and about 6 months on 240 then it was getting hard to select 2, 3, 4 and 5. I have the RB20 box which you can have for $50..... plus freight unless you wanna pick it up from Brissy.

As for the clutch....I can get you whatever clutch you want....any specs you want. Just as good as Jim Berry and probably a fraction of the cost. See how you go though.

Having been to many dyno nights, there are always hickups and problems...people cancelling and so-forth. I must say...Congratulations to Col and anyone else who assisted on the night. A job very well done! It went so smoothly and everyone had a blast. The guys at Allstar run a tight ship....very clean workshop....good for advice for anyone who was after it. Can't go wrong IMO.

We have a magnetic table, new grinding disc and recently serviced machine so you should get the best machine imagineable.....plus it will be free.

gimme gimme or better yet coz you have a series 1 I have a spare flywheel I could swap you.

If I knew you guys were racing to 250rwkw I would have run mine. Col...I thought yours would have more torque than that...after all it is an RB25...mine's only a 20 and I make 620nm. There did seem to be some inconsistancies with that dyno though. Like Dan's 34...should have been making 175 at least. John's...properly tuned or not should still have cracked 220. Not saying it wasn't accurate, just a bit suss on it. Col, yours should be somewhere in the vacinity of at least 500nm of torque.

Jason - Caliper kits - $20 per corner - Rebuild for free DBA4909SL + SR's - $--- Pair (uh oh...super duper cheap price cannot be displayed) Go the Hawke pads - cannot beat 'em. That is all you will need. If your brake fluid is getting over 600 degrees then there is something wrong....you don't need braided lines. Standard lines hold well over 5000 psi cold. The brake fluid you are using will be sufficient to prevent brake fade in your application.

rofl

I think mine spiked to 21psi the other night....couldn't be sure though as my guage only goes to 20.

But you don't get it! The in the third party is the in the included? I think that's what he is trying to say. But seriously....If the car is already registered then the registration renewal form you get does include compulsory third party from the previous CTP insurer...unless you want to change. CTP Extended is not included. Or pretty much what Arbess said.

I have one. $80. Guarantee included. It hasn't been used in about 3-4 months so I am not 100% on it being perfect but you are welcome to try before you buy. 0407 111 229

I know a few painters, one of whom used to work for DMD. Your best bet is to see him in person. Go to P&M Motor Body Repairs in Smith St Capalaba. Go round to the paint section and ask for Bilby. He may or may not be able to help you but it's worth a try. Tell him you were referred by Daniel. He also knows shite loads of other painters so if he can't help...maybe he knows someone who can.

lol.....are you being serious? I can't tell.

I have spent around $15K through them and had major problems at the start with a few items. I politely asked what the issue was and was blatantly lied to on a few occasions. My emails became a little more demanding and after I explained that I had no issue with waiting for the parts, I didn't wish to be told they would arrive on a certain date and then still be waiting a month later...or being told they have been sent and still waiting a month later. Things immediately became better and he appologised to me in a personal email. These issues I had were on my first order with them. Most of the problems I have heard from people are when they order $60 keys or $70 filters or $30 vacuum hose. I believe that with small orders like these they are sent to another person in Australia who then seperates the items into smaller packages and then re-posts them to their final destination. The smallest orders always take the longest. Make an order for $1000 of gear and you will see the lot in 14-18 days. I'm not saying that it is the absolute best way to run a business like that but stop and look at the big picture for a bit....Cheapest prices on the net, god knows how many order or even enquiries they get daily....cut 'em some slack and be up front. On a seperate note....DOU33 has an Apexi Power intake which is practically new that I am removing from his car, if you would like to talk to him, he may sell it for a good price.

He automatically comes in at 150rwkw for 'huge mo fo tur bo' street cred yo!

Yeah, some Cop fodder would be good for me for the Thursday night drive through the city. You can drive up front Terry.

Col did you say you are getting a retune for the colder weather? Unless your PFC is D-Jetro, why bother? The ECU compensates for colder air as it measures the temperature via the MAF meter. You should only need one tune and that's it.

Autobarn would be the place. Tyre shops probably wouldn't stock something like that as they are illegal to fit.

I will be coming on the night but won't be dynoing the car. I 'estimate' that I'll be answering many questions and meeting many people. Everyone will make at least 296rwkw with their SAU sticker. Can you please bring mine on the night Karen? I want it for the drive home lol. As for no two dynos being the same...that is why Shootout mode was developed, so that there would be consistancy between dynos no matter what the ambiant temps or air densities were.

So yeah, to answer the question...Greg's is better because it is newer/more efficient technology...but I believe that Ben's may outflow it's rating so overall would probably produce more hp at the end of the day on the same application.