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Everything posted by The Dan
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had to edit that one lol re-read it
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never takes long to get to 9 psi though. Greg.....you should see boost starting at around 2500 and full by about 3200 (should only require 15 psi to get you to 280rwkw). Difference between both of your turbos is that Ben's has to work harder to achieve the same flow Both turbos are very good. Greg...your's is rated at 700hp also. Don't forget I got you the GT3582R...not the 3082R. So both turbos are roughly the same in hp anyway, just Greg's does it at lower turbine speeds.
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you want a catback 3 inch in stainless inc. brand name for less than $799. Geez you're not asking for much, Would cost you $600-$700 for a custom shitty one from a regular exhaust shop.
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Any One Got A Final Konnexion Body-kit
The Dan replied to R32 _ULTIMATE_WEAPON's topic in Queensland
That cefiro looks pretty tough! -
Standard Rb25det Flywheel Limits
The Dan replied to Cake's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I have run clutches with over 3000lbs clamping pressure on the standard flywheel many times. You will have no problems with a HD cover on the standard flywheel. It's only about 40% heavier than the standard clutch anyway. -
Saw Damo on Wednesday while I was on a test drive in Konrad's white 33. Both waved....what were you thinking when you saw me? lol.
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Theoretically, injectors should not exceed 90%. However, if the vehicle is set up with the right equipment and fuel system, it can run at 100% IDC as long as it has been tuned correctly. There are some injectors that are literally restricted to about 60% IDC like some of the Gen II rotaries. And, in fact....Honda run most of their cars at 100% IDC at WOT on redline, like the B16A Vtec for example. For cars like Nissan Skyline/Sylvia/Pulsar, Toyota Supra/Soarer, Honda or any other good quality manufacturer, the injectors can happily run at 100% IDC as they are exactly that...good quality. Don't expect your mums Excel or Lanos to be able to handle this kind of treatment lol. The ECU loses all control of the fuel system once the injectors reach 100% IDC but as long as the car has been tuned on a dyno with an accurate A/F ratio meter, there is no reason why it cannot operate safely...provided that nothing else in the system fails. All it would take would be a blockage in the fuel filter to lean it out. So on one hand you can have no problems as long as everything is well maintained, or it can be devastating if one link in the chain breaks. Does that answer your question?
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*says in unison with other kids in the class* Yes Mister Col. P.S Took out the garden hose and washed a portion of flame away to keep the peace.
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Watch out for DOU33! I don't think he realises how much power it will have. Greg....I am only having it tuned to 280-290rwkw. The potential is there for over 350. Speak to you on Monday mate.
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Nicely done mate. Who did the work? oh and have a few of these > ...........
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GT2876RS with a 0.86 rear housing. Don't worry about finding that turbo anywhere, I had it specially made. I would like to change the rear housing to 0.63 to see which I like better. I just hope the 0.63 rear will hold out to 8500rpm like this one does but that's probably just wishful thinking. I get fullboost (20psi) on the current one at about 4800rpm with cams, used to be 5500 before the cams went in. With the other rear housing I should see fullboost at 2800 and have it carry all the way to 7000rpm which is a larger range anyway.
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Obviously you have never used a diagnostic tool before so I will explain. When the scan tool does a calculation for duty cycle it measures rpm and injector timing then divides this value by 1200 to get a reading as a percentage. For example. 6000 rpm with an injector time of 15ms will give you a duty cycle of around 75%. Obvisously if you increase either rom or injector timing, the final value will also be higher, like 7000rpm with an injector time of 18ms will give out a reading of 105%. Now just before you find amusement in that final figure I will explain this AGAIN. As I said to Col...I could have worded it better and taken the time to write out this massive message explaining myself to everyone about what I meant by 110%, but I thought...hmm hang on, maybe people who know me will understand where I'm coming from without me having to write out an essay. I KNOW YOU CAN'T PHYSICALLY RUN AN INJECTOR AT 110% DUTY CYCLE...I'M NOT STUPID However, you can run an injector at 100% and increase rail pressure to add more fuel meaning that a 260cc/min injector is well capable of over 280cc/min. Thank you for wasting 10 minutes of my life.... Oh and next time you want to attempt to amuse people with your quick wit, or at least half of it, how about you quote me acurately as I NEVER said 110% duty cycle. I did, however, say that I ran my RB20 injectors at 110%. Think back to the post before that even...when I mentioned about pump flow.
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Well the 60ft times were 2.5 - 2.7 seconds so yeah....taking way too long to spool. Give it too much the first time (4500 take off) and I was skidding through third Gave it too little the second time (3500 take off) and I had to wait six months for boost And in answer to your comment...NOS is not the answer! What I really need is one of those super dooper rotary engines that has pistons inside and a 9 speed gearbox.
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Hey mate, welcome to the club. Might see you around on a cruise or other event.
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Nice work terry. I was almost certain I was going to pass you on the line lol. I was going about 30k's faster by that point. Bit disappointed in my result but I'm talking with my turbo supplier and hopefully I can have the smaller A/R housing donated in the name of research....rofl. Should shave a second and a half off my time.
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Thank you Col. And yes I could have worded it better but choose not to edit my post due to the fact it seems to amuse small minded people who have more dollars than sense.
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you could always just wait til I fix it and all will be ok. Like I said to you, the fuel guage was the only drama because I set it up on under half a tank. All that needs to be done is fill it up and re-set it. As for the speedo, wait til you get it on the dyno and then tell me how far out it is.
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HEY!.....I resemble that remark!
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I have another 33 clutch to do tomorrow, an auto in a camry and a timing belt on an astra but I reckon I could squeeze in another one if you like. Plus I'll be out too if you're out. I can't get a helmet from anywhere. My mate is not contactable so I was hoping that maybe I could borrow yours. Anyone else willing to lend a helmet?
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Why wouldn't I be? I ran my RB20 injectors at 110% for nearly 6 months before upgrading them
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No....not really
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Why is it not finished?
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Appealing For A Suspened License For Thoese People Has Done This Before
The Dan replied to MFC05's topic in Queensland
That would be me. On a seperate note though, MFC05, you will have no luck appealing this. Just cop it sweet like you deserve to. You can try the things that 33GTT is suggesting but I would be very surprised if you had any positive result whatsoever - the reason for this is - a good behavior licence is exactly that....good behavior, if you are bad then you will be punished...and the judge will see it that way also. -
Mates don't scab lifts from me coz most of them are too scared.
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Primary windings are measured with a multimeter set to ohms. Connectors go on the + and - pins. Pin identification can be made by looking on top. Readings should be between 0.6 and 0.9 ohms. 1.5 is acceptable but I would consider saving for new ones. I have seen them working fine as high as 2.5 but usually over that and you have a definate missfire. Secondary windings can also be measured but if secondary windings are stuffed then the coil will have a missfire all the time.