The Dan

Sounds like a bargain!

No shop yet, not going to open one until I have a good customer base. Apart from my apparent 'FAN' club...Hi guys!

Other kits are going to be displayed soon. I offer a 12 month gaurantee on all my engines BUT everything is to be done my way and no short cuts. I will discuss warranty with each and every customer. All kits up to 650-700hp will cost roughly the same as the PK400 requires a little more setting up to adapt the 'smaller' turbo. Any parts that you may already have can be retained and the price will be adjusted accordingly.

I have been directed to remove the content of this thread by SAU admin. Sorry for any inconvenience.

I'm gonna have to pull out guys...my g/box is suffering some damage and I might not be able to get it home if it breaks.... Unless someone can sell me an RB25 box or offer towing facilities on the night.

Happy b/day

It is very hard to retain such an early boost and still achieve high results. It sounds as though you are aiming for a highflow. I'm not too sure that th 34 cooler will do you any favours at 230rwkw but it should be ok. The higflows typically come on boost around 2800 and hold past 7000....you can expect to see full boost around the 3500 mark. The R33 highflow is reliable to approx 380-400hp so it will be the best package to do what you want it for. You won't need to change any of the lines or hoses...it will all just bolt straight back on in place. Highflow is still $1800 depending on condition. Meaning it could go down to $1750 or up to $1850...but usually they stay at $1800. I charge $200 to remove and refit the turbo as long as you are in Brisbane somewhere. There are other options with adapting a turbo to fit but the costs are usually not represented in the overall result compared to a highflow. For $2100 I can graft the exhaust housing of your turbo to the back of a GT30R which will still net you fairly early boost figures, you get the twin ball bearing cartridge as well. This would cost another $150-$200 in braid lines and roughly another $200 in intake modifications. Not the right setup for you though. Hope I haven't confused you at all....just PM me if you have any other questions. or email at [email protected]

Autobarn sell fuel cap whoosh kits...pretty cheap too.

Spotted....in order of viewing. Last week sometime White 32 who like to play on Mt Cotton rd just before big roundabout inbound. Nice external gate/cut bypass pipe sound, could you move over next time so I can pass you...you were going too slow. Various 33 GTR's around who I waved to but got no response. Funniest thing I've seen in a while - This arvo a Black 32 pulls out on kessells road with a queen mattress strapped to the roof. Pulled up at lights next to and said "interesting setup"....he was happy about something so maybe it was a really comfy bed.

I don't recall him saying the words 'compressor surge'.

How could you not fit 65L into a 65L tank. When the light comes on..you should be able to drive approx 100km more before the car will stall. I'm just curious as to how people are measuring their distances. Surely you don't just fill it up and then read the odometer when the light come on.....that's just silly. The only accurate way to measure the right distance is to fill it up completely to the brim and then drive 100km. Then pull into the nearest servo and fill it up to the brim again. Note down the number of litres you have put in....it's as simple as that. The car is heaviest on a full tank so the fuel economy is its worst when the tank is full. Don't cain the crapper out of it for 100ks either, and don't baby it...just normal driving...boost it regularly. Then post up your results. I am willing to help those in need but no-one has taken me up on the offer yet.

I'm starting to get dizzy from all the bouncing boobies

And do you want me to add more posts so that I give the effect that there is more interest for your stuff?

And are you home all day?

can you draw me a picture in widows paint...just so I can see how good it is?

EXACTLY what condition is the 1 seater lounge in?

Man is that number for real? I rang it and the number can't be connected! I'm starting to wonder whether you are even a real person with a verandah. And what is this M1 thing you speak of?

Brisbane tuning and turbo centre

I challenge anyone to take up my offer. I will come out (you pay for fuel and it must be in brisbane) and if I can't fix the problem or tell you what the problem is...you don't pay me. Anyone getting 400k's or more can bugger off coz you aint got problems cept the right foot.

A mild modded skyline should still get 400ks around town. 500 in the highway. I get nearly 400ks to a tank and I drive like I'm always late....oh hang on, I always am.

We should organise a cruise...go out, look at the car...head back to guys house for drinks and BBQ and decide whether it was a good car or not. Lemme know, I'm always up for drinks, cars and BBQ's.

Shell only say that because Nissan told them to. They had to get approval from all car manufacturers and issue a statement to confirm whether that manufacturer would allow it. Fact is that ethanol eats away at rubber. The rubber which makes up the fuel lines and the rubber seals in your injectors. It also burns leaner and dryer. It only has adverse effects in a more than 10% mix though and even at 10% it would take like 10 years to damage an injector and you would have to be constantly running it through the system. The shell 100 is not potent enough to have any of these effects whatsoever.....the statement which was issued regarding all car manufacturers was in relation to E10 which is a more concentrated mix.

Mushroom's right....we have to do something....and quick!

Are you willing to put money on it if you are so sure. The best way to approach any problem is to start with the basics. Check the fuel sysetm, then check the ignition system, then check the intake. If you come up trumps...then start your in depth diagnosis like computer fault codes and other things like that. Or you could just take the car to a qualified mechanic and he'll do it all for you.

yeah, not worth it for virtually stock cars. Really is not worth paying the extra 3 cents per litre. That's $1.80 per tank for no real effective gain...plus you'll go through it quicker.