The Dan

I sometimes think that people don't get it....You don't have to retune your car to get benefits from it. If you have the stock ECU you can reset it to modify the settings to suit the new fuel. If you have a powerFC or something similar you don't have to go to a dyno and get it run again...that's just stupid. The 5% of ethanol will not harm your engine in any way as it's NOT splash blended, it's refined that way and, therefore, is not that same as just adding straight ethanol. A lot of you have been reading all that crap about E10....Optimax extreme 100 is not E10.....E10 is a 10% blend and can effect some of the newer cars. Due to the fact that it wears runbber out slightly faster than normal fuel....that doesn't mean that running a few tanks of it is gonna make your engine explode. And because the new 100 ron is only 5% it has even less of an adverse effect than the E10. I have run several tanks of the 100 and have noticed a couple of things...My car runs borderline tuning and will ping extremely heavily on 95 (premium unleaded) so I have to run the BP ultimate which is 98. I have to say be careful as I have found that some BP's are actually putting premium into their Ultimate tanks so be aware of this. On a hot day, sometimes the car will ping when using the 98....using the 100 stops it and it doesn't ping at all....ever. The second thing I noticed was fuel economy went crap. I used it up twice as fast as the 98. Running a higher octane fuel will give added power gains whether you believe it or not....that is fact. It will decrease the likelyhood of detonation so protects your engine that little bit more.

would you like me to come round and sort it out coz seriously...you guys are on a wild goose chase.

I would be more inclined to check for a blocked fuel filter, fouled spark plug or dodgy coil pack before pulling the piping apart...how exactly does something large enough to block you intake get past the mesh on the AFM and then through the turbo without you knowing about it?

umm, have you tried replacing the belt?

Just wondering, isn't there supposed to be a boost solenoid on the 33's which regulates boost to around 14psi as a failsafe? If so, doesn't it have to be disconnected to run anything higher?

Here

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought. Rocker cover screws....are you kidding? Camgear bolts...F.T.

Saw Dangerous_Daveo driving down Moss street this morning around 10am...I was behind you in the RED Vitara. I stalked you for a bit but you drive like a granny so it wasn't exciting.

Mate, I picked my two up from you on the first pick up day you organised.

R31Nismoid is right and there is something wrong with your fuel pump. The AFR's are ok though....for now. They could be a tiny tiny bit better but AFR's of 12.3 ish are fine. With those kinds of mods and running that boost you should have AFR's closer to 11 though....so yeah, unless you have a partially blocked fuel filter....change your fuel pump

Thankyou. You can run an 8 sec GTR on stock ECU. The factory ECU is far more manageable than the powerFC. The factory ECU can run an 8 sec GTR FAR BETTER than a PowerFC. The factory ECU is also far better for driveability on the street. Sure...many people opt for the power FC for ease of tune and coz that's what his fully sick mate got on his GTR but sacrifice driveability for it. And if you want to insult my intelligence again we can take it offline and I'll show you how bright I really am!

How about you go to Repco and buy a $14 HEI spark tester and do it properly...a screw driver can still mislead you.

The GT30R will support 300rwkw but you will need to run around 18-20psi boost with the setup you have. The RB engines will handle this kind of power and boost levels as long as the head gasket is in good shape and the rings are still ok. The stock cams will not see you through to 270rwkw I don't think...at best they are good for about 250rwkw. Unless someone can prove otherwise. A metal head gasket is a bad way to lower compression, the correct way to do it is with pistons. And R31Nismoid....why is 1 bar of boost not ok? are you saying that because of what you have heard from people or from what you know to be fact. The only reason why I say 1 bar is ok for him is because he has a FMIC and compressor surge on the stock cooler is one of the factors that causes the rear wheel to spin off them. The other reason is overspinning and at 1 bar they aren't out of their efficiency range. If he had stock cooler then I wouldn't suggest it. I personally have run 16psi for a whole year on a stock RB20 turbo and have set up 15psi on 3 other RB20's and an RB25 who have all been running it for longer than 12 months. If you take it out onto the track, however, you are asking for trouble as constant boosting at these levels will definately throw the rear wheel. Not the occasional blast off at the lights....and like I said...the turbo has to be healthy still.....if it's already worn then it will also break down but usually the bearing is what fails in that case.

The T66 is only rated at 700hp whereas the GT42R is rated at 800+... T66 = old crap GT42R = new + improved design and twin ball bearing cartridge. Also beware of cheap Chinese copies as many of these are circulating Ebay at the moment and are very very poor quality. EDIT-R31Nismoid-you are not a trader, nor is FI a for sale section

Can you tell me why you need to know...it may help me to understand exactly what you are trying to achieve. I think I have all the necessary info on the puter but will have to dig it up.

You don't want to go to the lengths of resleave but you will go to the trouble of getting Nikasil done. IMHO why don't you get a set of custom ROSS pistons. The ones for my 20 only cost me $1250 including freight, pins, retainers and moly rings. You can get them to make them whatever diameter you want and then hone the block to suit the pistons....that would be the best way to do it plus more durable.

My choice would be to burn all the Power FC's and use stock remapped ECU. Link suck too BTW....just thought I would add that. They suck more than any other computer on the market. If you buy the Microtech you will have to get another wiring loom from Microtech as the BMW one will not suit your NEO engine...I didn't think that would need explaining. This will add to the cost of your install. Plus if you pay any more than $1200 for an LTX12 then you are getting ripped off.

No spark....check CAS...do a swap if necessary. How did you check the spark?

1 bar is ok as long as the turbo is not worn out already. I have run 16 psi on them for years and never had a single problem. run 12psi if you are worried. BTW if you want a good price on a GT30R and a custom manifold then pm me and I'll hook you up. Cheers, Dan.

Atmo BOV's aren't illegal if the proper venting is taken care of for crank case ventilation and as long as the BOV doesn't exceed state db noise level limits.

The AFR's are ok. The little stab at the end is where he snaped off the throttle. 12.5 AFR's are good. My only concern with the dyno sheet is that 1. You shouldn't be making that much hp from those mods and 2. It was only an average of 28 degrees in castle hill on that day so what's with the 38 degree air temps. 40 degree inlet temps would see you making much less hp than that with those mods. Personally I think someone has beefed up the results.

Hey no worries mate. Glad I could help you out. How does the button feel? Was it like I said? They aren't too bad once you get used to em.

I thought that's what I wrote

turn it up!!

He's running a GT2871 with the 0.86 rear which is rated at 440hp