The Dan

Yeah I see I had the fken tags wrong. Glad I fixed that shit up

I'm always around somewhere. More recently due to me selling my stuff but still doing some things on the side. Engines mainly

oh hai!

fuck ??

nope

c<b></b>unts

Are you still able to quote out those words?

Just cruisin. I'm attempting a more laid back approach to life these days. Wife is literally moments from giving birth to our second child. So close, in fact, that if she called my name right now, I'd sprint into the next room....haha

What's goin on in here then?

I think you may have misunderstood the definition of 'flex fuel'The whole idea is to have a sensor that measures E% and the ECU adapts accordingly. Running your car on ethanol and setting it up for flex fuel are two different things.

I have posted this in car parts instead of whole cars because the car is not whole Moderators please correct me if this is wrong. For sale are the following items: R32 GTST w/out engine or gearbox - Diff still in place. Aftermarket steering wheel, gauges etc, Aus spec Tein coilovers that were 6 months old before the car was decommisioned approx 6 years ago. - Interior still in tact but will need a cleanout - Tyres old as f*ck but 80% tread at least. - Paint in poor condition but will not be hard to freshen it up. Only rust is surface rust on roof sides and bootlid - will need a respray + fix a couple of minor dents. Boot lid needs replacing (was replaced ages ago as a wing-less bootlid but dodgy repair means rust under bog so it will prob need to be turfed. Has front Veilside copy bar - Brakes were 80% new (DBA slotted + EBC pads) - Early PWR vertical row intercooler $2500 Garrett GT4508 Turbo (used) + CN Racing 50mm wastegate (brand new) - Great condition, hardly used. Comp cover outlet will need pipe welded as it has been cut off where the hose could normally join - Wastegate is brand new, never used. Throwing it in because IDGAF $1500 RB25 Prepped Block with Forgies - RB25DET Prepped block by Chilton Engineering (all the normal shit - acid/hot tank, decked, bored, honed etc) - Eagle H-Beam conrods - ROSS Racing Pistons - Crankshaft has had the oil gallery plugs changed but no crank collar fitted - Everything balanced etc $2500 RB25 Cylinder head in pieces w/ Solid lifter conversion and cams ready to go - Plain jane unmodified RB25 cylinder head that's been stripped and cleaned ready for porting (no valve guides or valves/springs etc) - Supertech solid lifter conversion brand new ready to go into the head (This item I had listed for sale for $1800 by itself in this forum also but due to me selling all the other stuff I thought I'd mention it here as a complete ready to rebuild head instead) - Camshafts custom Tighe Cams IN 280 x 10.4 and EX 290 x 10.4 $2000 If someone is interested in buying everything all together, I would be interested in negotiating a solid price that would be considerably cheaper

No thanks.

Hi BJ, The part number on the packets of the valves are NIVI-1052-SL and NIVN-1052-SL. Supertech list these as Black nitrided for intake and Inconel for exhaust. Link here for information: http://www.supertechperformance.com/catalog?mk=8&ca=328&en=76 It's the only valve they do for this application that I'm aware of. Retail on this kit is $2200-2400

For sale is a brand new R33 GTST Front Whiteline Strut Brace. It has never been fitted and is still wrapped in the plastic cover to protect the centre of the bar $100 + Freight

Any reasonable offers will be considered

It's not such a bad thing. Of course bleeding is a pain in the arse but that's about it. Make sure before you swap it around, you check to make sure the banjo fitting has a machined surface to crush the copper washer against. I have seen some cylinders actually made incorrectly. In those cases, you will need to leave it as is.

Newspaper

The bleed nipple should always be at the high point. If it's not, it's in the wrong hole or you bought the cylinder out of the wrong end of China

You only need to undo the nipple. The slave cylinder can stay on the gearbox

I have for sale a Supertech RB25 Solid Lifter Conversion Kit It contains: 24 Supertech Valves - +1mm 24 Supertech Solid Lifters 24 Double Valve Springs - 83lbs @ 35mm Max lift 14.30mm 24 Spring Seats 24 Titanium Retainers The kit is brand new and never used. All the valves are still in their packets except 1 that I took out for inspection. All the other parts are still enclosed how they came from the supplier in airtight lock bags $1800 for the kit

There is a point that has yet to be made and that is 45% of heat in a piston escapes through the top ring into the cylinder wall. The fact is, the top ring is the ONLY ring that seals compression gases, so anyone saying that you need to run tighter second ring gaps to decrease excessive blow-by is wrong. The whole reason ring manufacturers recommend larger second ring gaps is so that IF the amount of gas passing the top ring is slightly more than normal, it has a better chance of getting down past the second ring. If you get a pressure build up between the two rings, the top ring can be pushed away from the cylinder wall. Remember all this is happening very fast so it doesn't take much for heat to build up quickly at high rpm. The second ring is designed ONLY as a scraper (please read that line again for anyone who doesn't get it - ONLY A SCRAPER), although it does aid in some heat transfer and suggesting it has, or should have, any bearing on cylinder pressure is absurd. That would be the same as saying you need to decrease your oil control ring gap for the same reason..... DON'T USE OLD INSTRUCTIONS!!!.....PERIOD! What ring manufacturers were doing 20 years ago has no bearing on what is done today. Not even the materials are the same, not the same quality and DEFINITELY not the same finish. Engineering practices have improved markedly and customer expectations have changed. Simple fact - Total Seal are the ONLY ring manufacturer that suggest a tighter second ring gap. I am certainly not going to tell them they are wrong for one simple reason. THEY MAKE THE RING. Not all rings are the same and you can even open a set of total seal rings and have three different manufacturers in that one box! Are the rings the same? Total Seal might be using a Reverse Bevel and Taper Face whereas CP might be using a Taper Hook second ring. At the end of the day there is more than just gap you need to worry about. Your engineer has to be perfect (I suggest Chilton Engineering at Woolloongabba - 07 3391 1672), your gaps have to be spot on ACCORDING TO THE RING MANUFACTURERS SPECS and you need to install them correctly. If any of these things aren't 100%, you are going to have problems so that is why you must ALWAYS follow the manufacturers specs with rings from the clean and machine to the measure and assemble. For the record, CP didn't have blow by problems. Engineers and builders had problems. I've used nearly every brand of piston over the last 10 years and NEVER had any issue with blowby and this can be proven by the fact we never get oil burning under the top ring (above top ring = carbon etc, below top ring is like a brand new piston). This doesn't mean we don't have problems with catchcans filling and engines throwing oil all over the place but they are two separate issues. As a general rule you want 0.005" per inch of bore on the tightest gap on these engines (considering what you want out of them) If Total Seal want that second ring tighter, then make it 3.406" X 0.005" = 0.017" + 0.001" for good measure (0.018") and make the top between 0.018"-0.020" If I was running a CP set, I'd be chosing about 0.018" top and 0.020" second unless you were running nitrous in which case you'd jack them up another 0.004" a piece or so. Anyone wishing to disagree may do so, if you wish to put it in writing here, make sure you consider peak gas velocity through the top ring gap, remembering that once peak velocity has been reached, only a detonation or misfire can increase the flow of gas past the top ring by disrupting its seal. Peak gas velocity is reached well before peak rpm so any extra gas pressure cannot get through the gap you have on the top ring anyway. The top ring might have a 0.030" gap but theres only a 0.004" gap between the piston and the cylinder wall so the effective hole area is only 0.030" wide and 0.004" long. Further reading may be done by looking up a guy named Alastair Ansell who is an expert in the field of rings. He was employed by people like Morris Motorsport to work out engine failures for them and such. Anyone who would like a couple of his articles to read is welcome to PM me and I can have them sent to you.

Think about where you started with cars and ask yourself if you think carrying anything past one mis-informed post is going to help anyone? sure, have a joke but seriously, you are convincing him you are right. Have a laugh, with one or two posts, make it completely obvious you are joking and move on. Not cool

Not when it weighs 1700kg It would either need that power with 1400kg to run 150 or it would need to make 1000hp at the weight it is.

Nicely done. It's no easy feat to make 850hp but glad to see you finally decided to run it and put the shit talkers to rest. I can gladly agree that you indeed make over 800hp and am very interested to see you push that stocker as far as it will let you. At this point, even if it broke, you're currently making more hp than any other stock RB26 that I know of. Well done

WOW!! Never seen one that bad before. The crank and block/girdle cannot be used ever again.