The Dan

Spotted EZY34 on Tuesday night cruising it towards cleveland or birkdale. VERY NICE 34 GTR....remember to wash it though....it would look nicer.

Another thing you could try is check your alternator is putting out the correct voltage. Make sure you check it at the terminal on the back of the alt...not just at the battery. If your output voltage is low eg...11.80V, the battery light will still not come on but the fuel pump and ignition may not have enough to run them properly as the computer will only see about 9.5-10V of that. Your problem is probably elsewhere but it doesn't hurt to check as it will cause idle probs.

Spotted Drew today near Morton Bay College. Was caining around in mates 32 GTR.

paid for 2

Why do you need them to find you a part number. How hard is it to ring Nissan, give them your VIN and order it yourself?

Have a look at the silver one....where is says what engine it has....then look at brief comments. And also where it says 2 door coupe but the picture is a 4 door and it says 4 door in the comments also. Hmmm, I think someone is trying to be deceptive!

Okay, I just thought I would clear this up....the four door one is not a 350GT. It is advertised as such but is only the standard V35 3.0L. That is why it is so cheap. The blue one is a true 350GT. We have one at work for sale for $50,000. And a 260RS Stagea for $40,000....both complied.

Great photos SMR33. I like the fact that I finally got into one and I wasn't even in the background....yay!

Nah, wasn't Anna. Some bloke. It was a really light purple, not Anna's really hotarse purple. He wasn't as good to look at either.

Spotted Purple R32....plates AHH 32 in suburban Capalaba today. Waved....got no response.

Laser lover...

Because the specified gap for an R32 is 1.1mm. The whole idea is to create the most gap possible for the spark to jump efficiently. If you make the gap smaller than necessary, it will decrease performance. The only reason why you should regap your plugs to less than 1.0mm is because you have a poor ignition system or the boost levels are higher which can 'blow out' the spark, therefore you need to close the gap to make it easier for the plug to spark. General rule.....The bigger the SPARK gap, the better the burn...as long as it can contain and maintain that spark.

I was talking with one of the members from fordlaser.com and he said about 3/4 of them had to stop half way down the mountain due to brake fade. I told him to buy a skyline and he wouldn't have that problem. So then he starts with the wisecracks like...what's so massive about 100 Skylines all together, so I say...the difference is, if I wanted to see 100 lasers....all I gotta do is go to the wreckers. He crumbled and ran to his corner, crying like a little girl.

That site requires a password

I had the same problem when my MAF meter was starting to shit itself. But also did the same thing when my turbo was about to crap itself too.

I don't see what the big fuss is. it is being held by SAU....isn't that good enough. If you are so strict on SKYLINE, why invite stageas, cefiros and laurels. I would say, bring all the people you can. Sure it is better to have all skylines but the simple fact is....it's not a perfect world, and that's the exact reason for us raising money in the first place. If my Skyline broke down tomorrow and I couldn't drive it, I would be out there in the Mirage....and no-one can stop me.

No worries mate. Sometimes I come home in foul moods and don't really put much effort into actually helping people. I read back through my posts and realised I should probably just pull my head in. Pulling head in.........now!

Why? I was merely stating that as much as it is hard to diagnose faults at the best of times when you have the car in front of you, it is even harder to diagnose faults with limited information and hundreds of possibilities with no method of testing from where I sit. That is why it is important, no matter what anybody says on these forums, that you take your car to a professional for accurate diagnosis. I still resolve to say that there is an underlying problem still as the dipstick should not pop out under the circumstances that he has described.

Nice. I bought my GTST off Barry 3 years ago. Still have it today. He's pretty friendly. I was looking at the 1993 R32 GTR Vspec he had up there (awesome!!!!). Only $28,000. If you need any repairs or servicing done.....go across the street and down to the end shed on the left. We have all the equipment necessary and are cheaper than everybody else.

And that is exactly why you should seek professional advice from mechanics before taking further steps from information received here.

Nah, that would just be the most common problem that the RB30 motors had. Leaking injectors and injector hoses.

Is the air con compressor clutch engaging? Oh and this topic was cover no more than a week ago.

if you are looking towards the front of the car it should be on the left hand side about half way up the housing. The exhaust will get in your way too.

Whats with the 'champ' thing? I hope you haven't taken my posts the wrong way as it wasn't intended as a pissing match. I was merely commenting on the fact that you should easily achieve much higher results with the mods you have listed and I answered the few questions regarding my statements. I wasn't gloating or anything. This may put it into perspective. I have a friend with an R33 s2. These are his mods. FMIC - 280X600X76 Sard Fuel pump Garrett ball bearing turbo (very old and similar flow to a GT2530) Power FC His last Dyno was done on a Dyno Dynamics and achieved 238 rwkw on 15psi.

Sorta. An AFM is an Air Flow Meter and measures Air Flow via air flap and needle. A MAF meter is a Mass Air Flow Meter and measure Air Mass via hotwire. They both virtually do the same thing and essentially achieve the same results but through different methods.