The Dan

Cleaning your MAF meter should help. If switching the car off and then on again fixes the problem I would point towards a faulty MAF meter. Try other things like cleaning the throttle body and AAC valve at the same time and see if these help.

yep. Rebuild time

Only problem is we're not talking about E10. This is only a 5% mix which is half of that. You should not run E10 in your skyline because it is not a 98 ron fuel. The only fuels you should ever be running are Shell Optimax or BP Ultimate. Don't even worry about the E10.

Not exactly. You can have the stock computer remapped to suit the Z32 MAF meter. What mods are you going to be doing to the car in the future? If you are leaving it fairly stock then there is no point changing to a Z32 one. Just leave it standard. If you want more than 200rwkw then you will need to change it over. You can buy my MAF meter once I change it in the next couple of weeks if you like. Is working well at the moment.

Take it to an auto leccy

You would get a maximum of about 2-3hp gain from doing this but you will effectively put more strain on the already poor electrical system and create more heat as the standard setup works better than a poorly set up thermo. You have to go to a lot of trouble to set up a thermo fan as blink_elk has said. Not really worth doing. You have obviously been talking to some old mechanics or backyarder v8 enthusiasts.

Your master is leaking and you got air in the system A bleed will only help temporarily...get the master rebuilt

There is a thread at the bottom of the general maintenance section on the first page that has already covered this last week. Use the search function

Incorrect. The larger one is a coolant temp sensor. The smaller is a temp sender. They are different and both have different functions.

Ok, dyno was done on Dyno Dynamics in shootout mode. Standard cams also. If you would like me to list the mods I will but I CBF ATM

Also the thread title should read - 100ron including 5% ethanol. It is a total of 100ron....they use a 5% blend of ethanol to achieve it.

Another thing which I thought I should mention is that unless you are putting out 230-240rwkw, your injectors won't be maxing out so there is no need to increase fuel pressures. Your engine knock is most likely being caused by ignition timing incorrectly set. If you have a tired pump, blocked fuel filter, dirty injectors, dirty or old spark plugs, worn or old coil packs, inefficient cooler....these things can also cause engine knock. It's not about the race to dump more fuel in to get higher hp figures. The more fuel you put in, the slower your car will go. You have to tune the car to run an efficient amount of fuel air mix. You may find that by decreasing the fuel (running it not as rich) will give you more hp. You car should be able to handle 14psi with no problems at all.

How can your fuel pump have a pressure of 73.5? Do you understand how the fuel system works in an injected car? The fuel pump only provides flow. The fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail is there to restrict flow and, therefore, create pressure. As the pressure reaches a predetermined level, the regulator will bleed off any extra pressure. This maintains a CONSTANT pressure in the fuel rail and enables a CONSTANT measured amount of fuel to be injected at those pressures. The only way to increase fuel pressure is to restrict the flow more. You will find that the old pump would have been flowing close to its maximum levels, whereas the new pump will hardly be working at all. What method are you using to check your fuel pressures?

2 thou bearing clearances and a 10w30 oil If you have more oil pressure than above then there is something wrong....unless you have set it up for those pressures. Plus if you read the manual it will tell you similar figures. BTW...nice attempt at sarcasm but those figures are accurate. Even with an N1 oil pump you shouldn't expect any more than 80-90psi cold start.

WTF....changing your fuel pump won't increase your fuel pressure. The standard reg is going to see to that. Sure enough changing the reg will enable you to increase pressures. I thought someone would have told you this already.

110 psi is not normal 60-70 psi is normal on cold startup 15-20 psi once at operating temp at idle 25-35 psi between 2-4 grand 35-45 psi between 4-6 grand 50-60 psi over 6 grand

ROSS forgies with rings and gudgeon pins and retainers for $1200. That and Arias pistons are the only ones you'll get for an RB20

Test the coolant temp sensor

Nonsense. Running Toluene is safer than Ethanol. As long as your fuel system is adequate. ie. your injectors aren't maxing out, then a 10% blend of ethanol is going to have no adverse effects. You just need to run a fuel system cleaner through your tank every 3 months to help lubricate dry seals from the alcohol.

oh and I am only running 12 psi boost

Your tuner is crap! I am getting 210rwkw on standard injectors, standard AFM and standard remapped ECU. With the mods you have listed at the top your power output should be EASILY over 280rwkw.

Stay with standard ECU and remap. Much better than any aftermarket options. More reliable etc. I would only ever use a microtech if I went back to a rotary.

Any bike that lane splits when I'm up front gets a rude shock when the lights go green. Report the plate....take the f**ker down.....then laugh at him when you see him again. You are lucky it was in the Cliosport coz if you told the police it was in your skyline...NOTHING would have been done. Cops don't give a shit, never have and never will. And no amount of cake can shut my hole on that topic.

Don't forget that the first run was done in 3rd gear and the second was done in 4th

Look down the back of the engine on the drivers side close to the inlet runners. And on further searching have found that they do not incorporate closed loop knock sensor control. Future reference....www.google.com.au Type - Does Haltech use knock sensors Google is your friend.