The Dan

Ok I'll go read some more books and learn heaps more about catch cans and crankcase ventilation. I wasn't dissing anyones idea and I am sorry you feel that way. You need to understand that a catch can is not going to benefit you in any way other than saving you from cleaning up a mess in your engine bay when the engine goes bang. If you are worried about oil fumes getting into your inlet (which you cannot stop no matter what you do) then block off the return pipe to the intake before the turbo and buy a $16 two inch air filter to put on the rocker cover in its place. Bottom line is this...... You can go out and buy a catch can if you like. Doesn't matter which one, they all do the same thing. It will be illegal to have it fitted if it is not at least a 3 litre capacity. If you ever need one it's because your engine has gone bang and you will need to rebuild it but more and more I see people with catch cans who seem to think they are some kind of engine saving device. Just because the oil didn't spray everywhere, your engine is still ok and you continue driving it until more damage is done to other engine components. I personally think they are a waste of time. I'm glad you have been informed by people who know what they are talking about. P.S. Before you tell someone to go learn something, do a little research into their background. I don't appreciate it.

That's right, you should...lol.

You are the biggest scabber. The guy has just lost his car, give him some peace....at least for a couple of weeks. lol.

We should start a Club mate. I think between the two of us we would know most of QLD's traffic branch

Where did Strutto go? He used to be on here all the time but I hardly see him anymore. Is he ok? Does anyone know what he is doing? Anyway.....back to the daily grind.

Well then, no better person than Mick to give you a raping for your first time. Just remember, dump the clutch on the last orange light....that's the one just before the green. This should give you a good reaction time. And when you think you have crossed the finish, keep going for a bit....the track is a lot longer than you think and when you think you are finished you usually still have 100m to go.

This is also true. They still have a very large portion of wank factor to them. For them to be legal they have to be able to contain 3/4 of your engine's total oil capacity so anything less than a 3 litre one is a waste of time.

Yes, DEX III is ok. You can also use the Nissan Transmax Z which is used in the Attessa 4WD system.

Let your fingers do the walking. Or try the Victoria Forum, someone there might be able to help you out with contact details. Any good panel beater/painter will be able to get the colour you want. As for powder coating - the same paint/panel shop should be able to direct you to someone. Also, as for intake pipes and things like that - see about getting them HPC coated before they are painted. This will protect them from the heat from the engine and keep combustion temps lower.

The oil in a diff CAN go black. If it has been punished it will become burnt, the more burnt it becomes, the more black it becomes. As for Castrol oil - I would not touch the crap. I put Castrol oil in three seperate Skyline Diffs and all three developed a whining noise. One of those was my car and the whine got worse and worse until I changed it - for the third time. Castrol don't want to know anything about it because it is an Import. I only ever recommend REDLINE Diff Oil. You should use a 90 or 140 grade. Places like Autobarn can get it for you or if you are in Brisbane, Thompson Spare Parts stock it on the shelf. If you have to use Castrol, ONLY USE THE SYNTRAX AS SUGGESTED ABOVE. The top two listed will wreck your diff.

Where did you get the idea that Japanese oil is better than Australian. That is not true.

No worries, I'm here all week

Don't bother with FAST. Ring Repco. They have the listings for the RB25 which use the same belts. There is only one difference though, and that is with power steer. Some 32's came out with a 4pk and some came out with a 3pk so make sure you check how many ribs on the power steer belt. Other than that all the lengths are the same.

Unless he's a complete idiot, I think he would notice an oil patch of the proportions required and, therefore, mentioned it. For it to lose that much oil in 1000 kms and the cause to be a leak from the turbo or lines it would be dripping on the ground fairly heavily. Not to mention the smoke in the engine bay where the oil would be burning on his turbo housing or blowing back onto the manifold. But then again...I did take for granted that he would check obvious shit first before posting on here. I have made that mistake of assumption before.

You are only limited by your imagination and money, but no they do not directly bolt on.

You can doo iiit!!!

Bump

Including Police

It is obvious you know how a thermostat works.

A catch can that drains back to the sump? you might as well leave the setup the way Nissan designed it. The only way you are going to ever need a catch can is if your rings are phukt so why bother with one?

I am pretty sure you can but check with Repco - they have a listing for the RB25DET which is the same as the RB20DET.

You should be able to pick up a good second hand ignitor module for around $100. I am also pretty sure you can source them from the Z32 300zx. It also helps if you tell people what car you drive because some of them are different.

IT wouldn't be a problem with ALSD would it?

If checking those comes up trumps then it will be your 4wd pump located above the diff. Have had a few GTR's and GTS4's with this problem now and it doesn't matter how many times you bleed the system, change gearboxes or transfers it always ends up being the pump. Check out the sensors first though.

just so happens I have a spare one that you can HAVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! oh yeah!!!!!!