The Dan

Yeah I changed mine as well. Kinda strange introducing myself as ELITE FORSE so I picked something a little more simple.

Post Edited to protect the innocent! - ME

Black hater!

If you ever need a catch can then I would recommend an engine rebuild coz if you have that much blowby, you're gonna need to do something.

I had the wrong Boss for years. My new one is good. He pays me well and the workload is not that bad!

Yeah, the S1.5 had a pink sticker.....am not 100% sure about the blue one but I am only putting in what I saw for that one.

R32 AFMs have 5 pins labelled 1 2 3 4 5 and a green sticker. R33 AFMs have 5 pins labelled 1 2 3 4 5 and a green sticker or R33 s1.5 AFMs have 3 pins labelled 1 2 3 and a pink sticker or R33 s2 AFMs have 3 pins labelled 1 2 3 and a blue sticker A32 Maxima AFMs have the same as R33 s1.5 R34 AFMs have 3 pins labelled 1 2 3 (unsure of sticker colour) Z32 AFMs have 6 pins labelled A B C D E F and an orange sticker. Q45 AFMs have 3 pins labelled A B C and a yellow sticker Both R32 and R33 only use 4 of the pins (2 3 4 5) Also - AFMs listed above are in order of size.

Easy! Pour in 4L. Then start the car until the oil pressure comes up. Switch off the car and do small top ups until the level on the dipstick is right.....make sure you are on flat ground.

Either that or you could buy a decent PWR cooler and have the pipework going to the original stuff and not have to worry about anything.

Have a leak down test done. Are you checking the oil on flat ground and once the engine has been stopped for a minute or two?

I would advise going to an auto electrician. Sometimes they give out free information. If I understand correctly - you have five wires going into the back of the rotary switch? Or you have five wires coming out the back of the timer?

Clogged AAC valve, dirty throttle body and incorrectly set TPS will also have the same effects.

I cannot recall the exact cost of what you asked because I cannot find my receipt anywhere but from memory it cost me around $500 but I got the flywheel lightened and had my forged pistons match honed to the block as well. I also got the block and cradle crack tested.

You have much wisdom Dave san!

It does all of the above and more! When I reset the ECU and give it a floggin, these rollers come out the side of the car and flip around in front of the back wheels. It then displays a hp figure (speedo needle). I can then use the clock adjuster to dial in the horsepower figure I want. It does one more dyno run then sets it all up for the added power. How about NO! you freaky dutch bastard.

Was waving like a mo fo at about three different lines this week but never got a return wave. Silver 32 Sedan on Mt Cotton RD White 33 Coupe on Boundary RD Thornlands Burgundy 33 on Boundary RD Thornlands. I was in my riced up black 32 sporting the low wind resistance stickers on the rear quarter glass.

I only ever recommend one guy for machine work on RB's and that is David Chilton from Chilton Engineering. He is the best there is! with no exception.

A 4 button will not let go. Talk to the guys at Nicks Clutch Service in Archerfield. A 4 puk with a 2800lbs pressure plate will handle over 400rwkw. Sure twin plates are good but too much wear and tear on all of the other gear (pedals, hydraulics). The same can be said for the button combo too but it's area of destruction is driveline. - Hookup is friggin unbelievable though.

Obvisously there are going to always be a few people woth bad experiences. BTTC are the only ones who have done the right thing by a couple of my other mates. Charlies are CRIMINALS! Every person I knopw that has gone there has been ripped off. Stuffed tunes, false reporting....you name it.

Good to see you are ok, I hope for your sake that they don't repair it. The car will never be the same again. A write off might be a blessing in disguise. Let me know if you need any help finding another good one, I have contacts.

Yes, that is correct. Dunno if it will make a difference but don't stomp on the brake, just keep your foot on it for 1 minute. There are other ways but that is the most straight forward.

And the result of you leak check that I described before? It's not something silly like the stock heatshielding on the exhaust buzzing. When the insulator falls apart underneath them they get this tinny rattle.

We do them for $200 at my work but there is usually no time to do them as the insurance jobs take priority.

Ok, local update! It turns out that I forgot I have my anniversary weekend getaway with Katrina that same weekend. So I guess I'll see you all there then hey! I'm trying to convince her that we can leave early on sunday morning and meet up at the dam. I may have to crew up with the Goldcoast boys on this one.

Brisbane Turbo and Tuning centre come highly recommended by many people. Mercury are good and one of the Forum sponsors. Chapman and Chapman are quite good, they know their stuff. Milanco are also very good and focus on customer service.