The Dan

Standard injectors will see you to 250rwkw safely.

works on both. goto http://www.4wheelsfast.com/index.html There is some good info there.

I don't think you can use them. The pumps run a totally different setup in both cars. 32's are so hard to come by now - Try giving Cresta a call. 3245 1555.

I said more than.

It has absolutely nothing to do with oil cooking in the lines and causing a blockage. It is called coking. Coking happens when oil (of any type - no matter how good it is) is subject to high heat and high friction. Turbos can sit comfortably at 700 degrees C and spin at speeds of an average 150,000 rpm. The bearings spinning at 150,000rpm cause the oil to severely thin out and sometimes froth up. Your turbo is spinning this fast as soon as it hits full boost so it doesn't take any amount of track work to get it there. With this extremely thin, frothy oil covering your bearings, if you switch off the car immediately it does not give the turbo sufficient time to cool down to an adequate temperature. This added heat on the oil that is already very thin and frothy causes it to bake onto the bearings. Once you get a collection of this baked on crud it starts wearing the bearings away...just like having grit in them. Say bye bye turbo! On the other hand you can do what experts advise and listen to people who have decades of experience in this area and install a turbo timer. This timer will keep your engine running at idle for a minute or so and, thereby, cool down the turbo. This also has the effect of fresh oil being flushed over the turbo bearings removing any thin frothy deposits that may be present. I CAN 100% GUARANTEE THAT A TURBO VEHICLE WITH A TIMER FITTED WILL HAVE IT'S TURBO OUTLAST ONE THAT DOESN'T. FURTHER TO THAT, I ALSO 100% GUARANTEE THAT ANY VEHICLE FITTED WITH A TURBO TIMER, EVEN IF IT DOESN'T HAVE A TURBO, WILL OUTLAST A VEHICLE THAT HASN'T GOT ONE AND DRIVEN UNDER THE SAME CONDITIONS. As for the synchros...you may be right, but he did mention that the clutch engages right on the floor which would indicate a problem with the hydraulic system or pressure plate.

I heard from one of my co-workers who is a member of FORDLASER.COM that there is a cruise out to Somerset on the same day for them. Might not hurt to hit them up for some donations also. I mean, I know they are not Skylines but they do have wallets and it is for the kids.

Is there any way you could be a little more specific on the noise. 90% of the time when I am trying to sort out a problem for a customer they are saying 'bang' when really it's a 'click' or 'rattle' when it's a 'squeak'. Can you describe it any better than fluttering and have you gone for a drive with someone to try and locate the position of the noise a little better. When they checked the exhaust, did they check your manifold gasket (often missed on an exhaust inspection). Easiest way to test it is get a rag big enough to fold up and put over your exhaust tip. Then get someone to block the exhaust in 2 second intervals while you stay up the front and listen for any leaks. You will hear it start to hiss when your friend blocks the end as the pressure builds up quite quickly. This noise may be present while the engine is cold because everything hasn't expanded yet. Once the heat get's through it and the manifold expands a little, it will seal off the leak. Go check it out - easy to do at home and will rule out the exhaust. If it's the cat, all you gotta do is get half under the car and give it a bash, if it rattles - it's rooted. Only a rattling cat will make noises while driving.

It is spring tensioned but is also able to be manually tensioned. You never rely on the spring on the tensioner bracket to provide full tension. It always has to be manually done to ensure correct tension is applied.

There are a few things that can cause them to shudder like that. 1: Contamination of clutch plate, pressure plate or flywheel with oil 2: Hot spots on flywheel and pressure plate surfaces 3: Uneven flywheel or pressure plate surface 4: Faulty pressure plate Due to the fact that it goes away once warm I would have to point towards 1 and 2 erring on the side of 2 mainly. These hotspots are caused by excessive 'riding' of the clutch and puts too much heat into the system. Same as your brakes do when they warp like that. Really the only way you are going to know for sure is if you remove the g/box. Do you know what type of clutch it has in it?

So many possibilities. When it does it you'll have to check all the basics like fuel, spark, injector pulse. Then move onto things like check cooling system for leaks and compression test. If you don't know how to do any of these things....go to a mechanic and they will be able to perform the above tests for you. In the meantime you could try simple stuff that might help like...make sure air filter is clean, make sure fuel filter is good, make sure the fuel tank is sealed (should go whoosh when you remove the cap), make sure the throttle body is clean. Might fix your problem, might not....but it's a damn fun weekend.

Booster is on the money. The receiver dryer is what you will need. Brand is Jayair and available from repco. Part number is RD5010 and should cost you around $30. Also if you use the search function you will find that only two weeks ago we were talking about this same unit in this thread - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0entry1690174

Hydraulic. Do you have any oil leaks from around the back of the engine?Even minor ones. How does the clutch feel when you give it a hard time? Normal or slipping. Does it make any noises when the shuddering is present?

Thrust bearing? It's an auto. Does it make the sound while free revving (neutral) it or does it have to be under load? (driving down the street)

I would have to disagree with it being quite safe to turn the engine off immediately. Yes...for the engine, but it will totally screw your turbo. That is why the timer was designed. As for the clutch, take it to a mechanic to have it checked- -they don't have to know anything about imports to tell you what is wrong with it and there are so many possibilities that I do not care to go into depth about it - it iwould take all night. Hicas light.....does it just come on and stay on all the time or only after a certain amount of driving. Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel? Does your speedo play up at all? Does the steering go extremely heavy, semi heavy or not change at all when the light comes on?

Don't gap your plugs to 0.8mm unless you are running more than 12 psi boost and DON'T EVER BUY A WALBORO PUMP! They suck rancid tuna salad from hippo's arses. ALSO....read this thread - you will learn a lot. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0220&hl=service

You will probably find the EL coil packs are more expensive then the multi-fit item that GunmetalR33 used because the EL unit comes with the ghey brackets to suit the ford. You can use these brackets to mount them unless you have another way to do so, in which case it would be cheaper to buy the 717's (same coil pack)

Full load is all it needs. The more times it get's there, the finer it can tune itself. It constantly learns and recurves it's figures...it's just more coarse when you do the reset. Full load means full boost, full throttle....you will probably need to take it to 6...no further. Do this in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th (on highway), then resume normal driving.

Your belt has been overtensioned. No belt should be noisy, no matter what brand it is. If you overtighten it....it will hum. I have installed Gates, HKS, Greddy and Nissan ones and none of them make noises. You just have to know what you are doing.

They both can make an annoying noise. the Spigot will make a noise in 1st and REVERSE only and just before the clutch engages to the flywheel. The throwout bearing will make a noise in neutral until you put your foot on the clutch pedal or if it is seized it will make a high pitched screech ONLY when you put your foot ON the clutch pedal.

I am also doing Highflows for all RB20DET and RB25DET Turbos. These turbos are rated between 350-400hp. And include replacement shaft, comp wheel, turbine wheel, bearings, seals, machining and all labour. Total cost of $1900 including remove and refit if you live in or around the Brisbane area. This includes after tune with the consult to set boost level or fuel pressure if required. All work is guaranteed.

I'll call him tomorrow

Call Mobile Home Car Services in Capalaba. I'm not sure if they will do the whole brisbane area but worth a try.

remove the cooler and get that piece out. Then take the cooler to a radiator repair shop and have them weld a plate over the hole.

T04GTR is right, the filler will cause you problems. Also the leak can be from when you get fuel before the flap there is a small hole which it will leak out of straight onto the ground.

I'll race ya! In my fully sic Mirage with de cannon on de back. It has awesome hot air induction too.