The Dan

I would say faulty TPS. Being an Automatic you should have all three wires active on the back of the TPS plug. One of them goes to the trans. Try swapping with a known good one or you can test your one but testing is a very broad method which might not really tell you.

when you plugged the taillight fuse back in, did you have your lights on or something? Try resetting the computer and see if the light comes back on. Disconnect the power lead from your battery terminal, step on the brake for 1 minute, then reconnect your battery (make sure none of your accessories are on like stereo and crap like that) then take the car for a run. First off just drive like your mum would for about 1-2 minutes, then find some open road and...well, yunno what to do. This will reprogram it sufficiently and hopefully your light will not come back on. It could be that it sensed a short and logged a code. If the light comes back on then see an auto electrician and tell him what happened or go and get your error codes pulled to see what it has logged.

Yes, it effects idle when you spray it over a vacuum leak. Just another quick question....you did reset the idle after cleaning the thing out didn't you because if you have the screw wound all the way out it will leak air past and cause it to hunt like that. Try winding the screw in all the way - it should konk out when it's almost all the way in, then just wind out slowly until idle comes good.

I think he was referring to the comment YOU made "you a f$%king liar" He wasn't actually saying you were a liar.

One of the guys at work informed me that next week hopefully we will have some new version of the Skyline coming to us. Apparently it is waiting at the docks. If I heard right it will be the 2005-2006 model. If it comes through I will try to get some photos.

The 2-3cms of freeplay is absolutely normal! As for air in the system, cracking the nipple will not let air in, it has to be drawn in to get in there. If the pedal is down on the floor, have you tried pulling it back up again as this is also absolutely normal for the clutch to do when bleeding the system. When you pull the pedal back up by hand, the pressure will be there again as long as the nipple is closed when you bring it back up. Hydraulic pump?......WTF?

The only things that require changing are the RECEIVER/DRYER (pictured) and the fittings to the High and Low side of the system - Red and blue caps. Red is high, Blue is low.

Looks identical. As long as the dimensions were 200mm x 60mm

They call me quick draw!

replace the gaskets. even though they are rubber the become hard and brittle. You can buy these genuine from Nissan. They cost around $25 each. Don't forget to get the grommets for the rocker cover bolts as replacing just the gaskets can still leave them leaking. The grommets ensure an even torque is applied all round so you won't have any nasty surprises. You won't have to worry about plug lead positions as you don't have plug leads. The coil packs will not require removal either, just the inlet crossover pipe if it is still present. You will need a fairly decent philips head screw driver to undo the rocker cover bolts.

The air regulator can effect the idle like this and is located behind the injector fuel rail about 3/4 of the way back towards the firewall. I would not advise cleaning this or if you do be very careful. There is a nut on it covered in locktight and is there to adjust the gate inside for how much air to alow past. You can successfully clean this item without too much drama but try not to play with the locktighted nut. If you do have to play with it, set it so the gate is fully open. Have you had your TPS or MAF meter checked? Also give the entire intake system a good cleanout to ensure no gunk is present on the throttle body, MAF meter or any of the pipework. Also check to make sure you don't have an air leak somewhere. You can use carbi clean to locate the source of any air leaks.

The total thickness of a GTR clutch plate is 8mm. This is made up in three parts, 1: The bonded material, 2: The centre plate, and again 3: The bonded Material. Each bonded section is exactly 3.2mm thick The centre plate is exactly 1.6mm thick This makes a total of 8mm and is to suit the R32 GTR pull type clutch. Hope this helps!

Take off the AAC valve and clean it. It is located towards the firewall of the plenum (top of the inlet manifold). Should be held in place by 4 10mm bolts. Be careful to not break the gasket when removing but don't be too stressed if you do. Get your hands on a can of Carby clean and spray that mo fo until the can is empty. Get all the crap out (black shit). Usually what happens is they get a little gummed up with soot and it causes them to operate in a less than effective manner. Don't try to remove the valve itself, held in by two screws unless you have a good screwdriver or impact driver of some sort otherwise you will damage the screw heads. Once clean, slap it back on and bob's your aunty. If you broke the gasket upon removal, get some locktight 518 flange sealant(comes in a red tube and is gooey to touch) and use the smallest amount to just cover the area you wanna seal. Be careful not to put too much on otherwise you will actually block the hole that requires air to pass. It is also possible that by changing boost setting you have introduced a vacuum leak of some sort, in some unknown location but usually it will only drop in idle for a second then just idle high from then on. I doubt this is your problem. Give the first one a go and see how you come up. Should only cost you about $15 all up and should be done regularly anyway. Also, if you have any carby clean spare you can use it to clean the throttle body (where the butterfly is) They can also get a build up of gunk around the edge causing your car to konk out. Very dirty air filter will also cause stalling problems so check to make sure it is clean.

The same principle can be applied when reading your post. What do you mean? Read your post outloud and see if it makes sense. As for the thickness of the clutch plate itself, for what reason do you need to know as it may better help me to understand what info to give. Are you just trying to work out whether the clutch is worn out or are you building some sort of custom clutch and, therefore, need specific measurements?

Once you switch the ignition off the power is automatically cut from the sender so if it is staying half way when the keys are out then the problem is more than likely to be your guage itself. Just see if you can buy a second hand cluster from an import wrecker.

1000

It should be a Z160. Take the old oil filter down to match it up with one

Does the noise get louder when you rev it? Does the noise go away if you step on the clutch pedal? How loud is it? Does it follow the sound of the revs?

OK, here are some pics of my RECEIVER/DRYER which is to suit an R32 GTST If these match yours, then the part number is RD5010 The dimensions are 200mm HIGH x 60mm DIAMETER. M20 Thread on inlet and M16 thread on outlet. It has two male switch points perpendicular to the in/out. Only one should have the sensor in it.

Typical, no pics of my shit truck.

Ding! First floor

There is always a possibility that a small amount of oil is seaping out of the front seal of your turbo once you shut it down and then once you start it agian the oil gets burnt through the system. Take off your inlet pipe to the turbo and have a look to see if it is very oily inside (a little bit is normal). The only other true way to test the integrity of the engine is to get a leak down test done. Then you'll know for sure.

Measure the diameter of the swaybar using vernier calipers or take one out and go to Fulcrum suspension, they should be able to easily match it up or make whatever you need to suit.

Yes, this is normal. The 8 is a bit high but the Skylines are renowned for their oil guages playing up. I would run an engine flush through at your next oil change just in case you have the oil pressure relief valve sticking in the oil pump. Other than that, the guage is operating completely normally. It should go up when you accell and go down when you decel. The needle should sit on around 2 when it's warm at idle and go no higher than around 7 at about 6000 rpm.

Mine has all the colours listed - they should be written as a letter at the end of the wire. EG. Y = yellow Y/R = yellow with red trace.