The Dan

That actually looks like one horny car. Ok I have changed my mind.....you can all go home now, thankyou. lol

Contact [email protected] he can program your factory ECU. He is based in Melbourne but often travels around east coast to do his stuff.

Why not just make out like you are going to buy the stuff from his website, get his address or whatever and then post it up here. Let nature take it's course.

What is the point of doing it in a nice suede if you are going to cover it up with seat covers?

you coming wrxkilla?

I don't know what is more disturbing, the idea, or the thought that someone out there actually took the time to think of it! haha, good one though, very good.

Springwood crazies for me. Coming through coorparoo is the long way round.

Then they aren't the bolts, they are the rivvets that hold the hinge together. You will need to replace the hinges. What state do you live in? and can you post a pic of the hinge in question with a paint shop arrow to what part is loose. I can try to track down some new hinges for you if you like.

I dunno what you have planned but PM if you want a karma adjuster's services.

If it's as crap as it has been for the last 3 years then I'm definately not going. Nothin but BWCP at southbank I reckon. Pay $18 to get in and there is nothing that impressive there anyway.

Yeah I don't mind going for a drive but it would be best if you described the meeting location, the direction we will be heading, some of the stops on the way. When you organise a cruise you have to have it all prepared otherwise you won't get any takers. If people see that it looks like just a dodgy 'drive around' they won't bother coming because it looks as though you haven't put any thought into it.

What do you mean pricey? It's like the second cheapest turbo you can get for these. $1600

Why haven't you check for ignition and injector pulse. You can't expect people to offer a sollution when you obviously already know the problem. If you have a burnt out computer - replace it. Check all the basics - Fuel pressure, spark, injector pulse, timing. Make sure you have all the plugs in properly. If you don't know what you are doing then I suggest taking it to a mechanic who does.

Up she goes!

Don't stress, I'm easy going. I just hope I remember coz I have the worst memory

If it's towards the windscreen where you are saying, then you need to check to make sure the bolts holding the bonnet on are tight. If they are then the hinge itself needs to be replaced. Just check the bolts first, they could be loose.

Have you checked the ECU for error codes yet? Do that, if nothing returns, make sure there is sufficient p/s fluid in the reservoir and the belt is still turning the pump. Check to make sure the p/s pressure switch is still plugged in. It is located just behind the alternator on top of the crossmember. Does it make any noises when turning or just heavy? Also how heavy is it exactly? Just slightly heavier than normal or just like driving with the car turned off?

Take all your wheels off and clean the ABS sensors behind your brakes. If this does not cure you problem - do a bleed of the attessa system. It is quick and easy and will only cost you a few bucks. If, by chance, the problem still exists, get your mechanic (or someone who knows these cars) to check out your attessa pump. More than likely these fail and cause a surging through the car at cruise speeds, not while cutting sik so this is a last resort to check as it is in a difficult to get to position above the diff centre. You might also wanna check your attessa reservoir in the boot and make sure it is topped up.

Definately the N1 oil and water pumps from a 34 or 33 GTR. These are well known for being the best choice. Even the Targa 34 uses them. As for the head, if you don't do it now and something goes wrong, you'll be kicking yourself you didn't do it when you had the chance. And only for a couple of hundred extra. Just think, you get it all back together and she runs beautiful......you run her in nicely and when all seems well, she starts pouring smoke out the arse end coz you didn't replace the valve stem seals and now they are leaking. These engines are also well known for running leaner on cyl 6 so maybe something can be done with the head to prevent this. Also you can get the oil return galleries widened so that there is a more efficient oil return to the sump. Don't forget to have the dowels removed from the crank and have threaded studs put in their place. This will ensure the durability of the crank when you push it hard for longs periods and only costs about $50 to get done.

You will be looking at a minimum of around $1000 to do a head gasket on one of these if you go through a workshop. $1600-$1800 if the head is bent (which it more than likely is) $4000 if the pistons have shrunk. Good luck, let me know if you have any issues. I have dealt with many of these.

Milanco are good.

The point being that this edition of HPI is specifically dedicated to the GTR. Great mag and deserves recognition.

No worries, I will find out on Monday. I just spoke to my boss then and he hasn't got anything listed as specific for the R32 GTST but he said that we will definately be able to match it up so I'll take mine off on Monday and get the number for the correct parts and prices. Shouldn't be any more than around $40 for everything.

Well I'm sorry that you thought I was being a smart arse but that was not how I intended it to read. There's the information - would you like part numbers also? I have a full list of them at work (won't be til Monday now though)

This one was definately the first I can assure you. It actually entered the country 2 years ago, got resprayed, then sent to NZ for compliance. The engine blew and a new one was put in. They couldn't get compliance in NZ so the guy sold it back to my boss who is now getting compliance for it. Until now it has been sitting in storage. And yes, he has a coupe and says that it is a totally different animal. I am yet to see one in person but he reckons they look much better.