The Dan

Well if you work in a certified place you should know that all components are made by Jayair and available from most of your Repco outlets.

Here are some dodgy phone camera pics of the V35 Skyline that my boss has just imported. It is the first one in the country. He is getting compliance for them now. I don't think they do the Skyline name justice. It kinda looks like a Mercedes from the front and a Subaru WRX or a Maxima from the back - But really it's a Renault at heart - WTF?

You could try some cardboard and stick it on top of the original skirt. Then paint the cardboard. It would look pretty sik! sorry George just kidding!

Just go to Autobarn - Buy a standard car cover to suit your car - then make a trip to clark rubber and buy a wad load of flexible foam - using contact adhesive you can stick small squares (20cm x 20cm) over the contact area of the cover, thus creating a foam heaven that your car will enjoy.

You cannot just change it from a journal bearing to a ball bearing. According to GCG everything from a Series 2 R32 up has a ball bearing turbo. Tihs means that yours is already BB. How much did Milanco quote you to get the turbo highflowed?

They are put in using urethane. Just leave the old windows in and replace the seals only. If you absolutely have to replace the window you can use sikaflex but make sure you know what you are doing.

BUMP YEAH!!

Where is it loose? Towards the windscreen or towards the bumper? if it is towards the bumper then you can get the rubber stops on the side replaced. They are about 10-15cm from the edge. You can adjust them up and down by turning them. If they are missing, just go to Nissan to get some more - or any other car dealership, they are usually much the same.

You are not allowed to do it yourself. You have to be a certified A/C repairer to do it. The old gas has to be stored in a container and disposed of properly because it is ozone depleting. The R134A gas is toxic to humans. Cost is $200 if you live in brisbane, PM me for details if you wish.

Can you actually say anything nice to people you friggin retard. How about you get lost! WAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! hahaha peon! What's that? you prefer men? sorry mate, I'm taken oh and one other thing.....WAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! friggin retard!

Instead of continuing with your childish game I am going to ignore you. Read back and have a look at how much of a smart arse you were. I was going to have a look at some of your other posts as well but I can see - WHOA!! 37, so I didn't bother.......well done mate. See you!

I must also add that resetting your computer WILL NOT EFFECT YOUR PROGRAMMED MAPS. Whether you had the ecu remapped or it is standard or whatever - resetting it will not erase that data. All it does is reset the learn procedure so that the computer can fine tune the base maps that are hard programmed into it and even then it only does it in fine increments to achieve the optimum running conditions.

Anyone in brisbane with a LAPTOP and a spare 10 minutes and I'll reset their Nissan factory ECU properly. If you don't have the LAPTOP then it will cost you $5. I have a PLMS consult at home and a Nissan Consult at work.

No you cannot. The GTR has a pull type clutch and the GTST has a push type clutch.

We do the conversion for $200 at my work for an R32 GTR. The problem with R12 is that you won't be able to find it anymore. It's not illegal up here, dunno about NSW. But the only people who still have it are either getting rid of their old stock, or getting old degases from wreckers to illegally stock up on it. If you want to still run R12 then you will have to find an old A/C outlet where they may have some old stock left.

There will be no problem with the water pump. The cap yes, do as Oosh suggested but I would also question why it got hot on the guage. While you are replacing the cap, change the thermostat at the same time. Cap should cost you about $12 and the thermostat will set you back around $25 or so

The temp guage will read normal if there is no water in the system....it needs water to function correctly. If you drove it till it stalled and did that a couple of times you will have warped the head. If may drive ok once the leak is fixed but get a leak down test done and find out how bad it really is. Another problem is that the turbo would have overheated severely also so there is a good chance that once you fix the problem, be it water pipe, welsh plug or head gasket, the turbo may have damage to the bearing which can cause them to fail soon afterwards. Another problem that you will have to check is piston shrinkage. If it turns out to be a head gasket blown and you drove it until it stalled there is a good chance your piston can shrink in size once cool again. Make sure you get this checked out by whoever does the head work - BTW it will cost at least $600 to repair the head if it is warped.

The turbo can be bolted on.....Would you like me to ring Milanco and sort them out for you? I can give them the exact dimensions of the adaptor plate and how to achieve it. It shouldn't cost you any more than $100 extra but they should absorb that cost for you. Also depending on how much horsepower you want in the end, There are a few other options available to you in regard to having your existing exhaust housing used and adapted to a GT2876 CHRA. PISSED OFF - Sure you are EAGER TO HELP - HELL YES I am HAPPY AGAIN - Damn straight you will be. Let me know John.

The turbo can be bolted on.....Would you like me to ring Milanco and sort them out for you? I can give them the exact dimensions of the adaptor plate and how to achieve it. It shouldn't cost you any more than $100 extra but they should absorb that cost for you. Also depending on how much horsepower you want in the end, There are a few other options available to you in regard to having your existing exhaust housing used and adapted to a GT2876 CHRA. PISSED OFF - Sure you are EAGER TO HELP - HELL YES I am HAPPY AGAIN - Damn straight you will be. Let me know John.

Have you tried just knocking one up on the sewing machine Erin? I hear Andrew is pretty good on one of those!

It looks very similar to the standard s2 side skirt I think. are you sure it's not the standard unit.

And before anyone says it....yes I know my hands are dirty - I just finished work. B)

The 2876 is not a direct bolt on but it can be modified to suit the 33 exhaust housing and then it will. If you pay any more than $1900 for it then you should have come and spoken to me first. I can usually beat anyones prices on that stuff. The problem they will have with it is the comp housing is so large that the exhaust housing needs to be spaced away from the manifold by about 25mm otherwise it will hit the rocker cover. You also have to be careful with the braided oil feed line fitting as there are two that fit....one, the thread fits nicely but it will slightly leak. The other one is the correct fitting and will not leak...it is the less obvious of the two to pick.I will take a photo of the correct fitting if it helps Also tell them to save money and to be more reliable to only trim back the water lines and braid them half way along. This offers more strength and will keep the lines from rubbing on the hot exhaust. Here are a few poor quality pics of the fitting - take note of the flared end.

The Coolant Temp Sensor effects more than just idle you twit. I thought I explained that earlier. When you understand BASIC principles, then you can come back and offer some assistance. BTW don't tell me to stfu, I am here to help people with GENUINE answers, not just make stupid smilies to make fun of people and repeat what help I have already given, then go back and edit your posts to start arguments. wah!!

If you have the plug under the dash then you can use it. You are right though, the early 32's, some were unable to be read due to the fact they did not have the plug.