The Dan

I'll explain it better in a minute when I'm not driv.....umm....doing stuff

I'd buy the one with 120psi coz I can jam 60 pound of boost up its arse more easily

How did you calculate that number?

The results are low but even. Being even is more important than low. The gauge isn't necessarily accurate either.

Quite the opposite. I kill people to get VCT. You want it

The RB30 actually came out in the patrol didn't it? If so, you can remove your current blue plate haha

Rb26 gasket. Block off VCT gallery at the front, bolt the head down, skids You can tap into the front of the gallery to retain the VCT if you want but that will cost more money

Someone should write up a guide and put it in the forced induction section

You don't happen to still have that RD28 diesel do you?

I blame the person who picked the wrong turbo for the application

Dude! Did you just make a speed comparison with a v6 commodore? SHAME ON YOU!! Nah seriously I had to do a clutch on a cruiser with a 2JZ......no shit. It made 350hp at the wheels I think. Was pretty funny to drive. Z32 is a 300zx. Z32 is the model. You need a manual one of those. Auto one will work too I think but don't quote me on that. You'd need to speak to Matt at Nistune to ask that one. With a turbo upgrade and the Nistune inc tuning and a few other bits and pieces I'd say you'd chew up $3k pretty fast.

Oh sorry was there supposed to be commas separating the list? Too easy mate. Will help you out if you need it.

You'll need a flywheel machine and a rear main seal as well. $66 for the flywheel and $65 for the rear main from memory. No more than 4 hours on the clutch total driveaway.

Microtech are great. They do exactly what they are supposed to do and do it reliably and easily. They are ass to tune, don't do A LOT of things that modern cars need them to do, don't have ANY functionality other than fuel and timing control and even then the timing control is f**kED. If he buys one second hand, it will prob cost about $800? then he's going to need to do a full wire in (enter mr problems) That will add more cost. Then, depending on his capabilities as an auto electrician (and even then not many can wire an aftermarket ECU properly) it may have more problems due to insufficient power etc. If you're going to suggest a plug in, don't bother, the ECU board is out in the open, unsealed. This is a 4wd that is likely to be submerged regularly. Too risky. Like I said though, it will do its job.....just not as well as others. A Nistune will definitely do it better and cheaper

Because even a decent ECU is $1500 second hand. The cheap units can 'do' the job but when you realize there is no stepper motor control or inconsistent firmware faults etc. or the car drives very poorly because of bad fuel or timing control, the car won't be fun to drive anymore. You will try to apply minimal throttle for tough situations but it will jerk and carry on because it doesn't have the finer tuning details that other high end ECUs have. There is also the issue of getting water into plug in boards so pretty much rule out a microtech plug in. You would be better off with a rewire in that regard and then you've chewed up your 4k inc tuning already and haven't even touched the engine. That's why I suggested a Nistune.

Your budget doesn't really allow for anything decent. I would buy a Z32 ECU and Nistune it. Unless you have a Neo ECU which can be chipped. Forget about valve springs. Factory ones are fine for what you are doing.

Nothing wrong with factory coils. New ones. Well Gibson Motorsport seemed to think so anyway

Read up a few posts

It can't be a bent valve from a hydraulic lock. Refer 2 posts up

Then you probably have internal damage. I would say bent rod forcing a piston against the cylinder wall

Remove spark plugs and crank it over to get the water out? Then drown it in WD40 and repeat

What turbo did you have on that made power all the way to 8000? What's the point of him upgrading his camshafts so he can rev higher when the turbo won't be making power after about 7k?

HP yeah

Standard cams will be perfectly fine with 2860RS. Go PON cams if you want to upgrade the midrange slightly or if you are going a bigger turbo later

They generate a lot of heat just from HP but it saves weight and there is enough cooling from the fuel to get them to the finish line. They shut off after that and get towed back.