The Dan

No news sorry. I have not had time to chase it up but it is beginning to piss me off that he is not replying. I will try to get a hold of him tomorrow and go from there. Did you need one in a hurry?

Still waiting for a phonecall back sorry.

You can actually download one from the QT website. I have a full copy of the current one.

that is right. A torch that is not intrinsically sealed may be hazardous. Usually only if the bulb blows or something but there is still a chance.

check to make sure the boost controller does not have a blockage. This would cause the turbo to spike extremely quickly as the wastegate is not opening or not opening enough. Your boost cut should be somewhere around 20psi but the turbo will hit that twice as fast as your guage will read it so it might only say 13 or 14 psi but the turbo has already hit 20psi. It is unlikely to be your AFM as my stock rb20 afm is putting through 250 rwkw and only reaches maximum voltage when my injectors hit 100% duty cycle.

Sorry for the delay. GT2560R rated at 400hp is $1400 each. Retail $1750. There is a 300hp variety I believe which is only $1300 each.

CT18 is oldskool. I was using thaqt years ago. We use it at work to mop the floors. I got like 40 litres of it...lol. That stuff has a very high powered degreaser in it so you would wanna be careful how long you leave it on.

Problem solvered. Just borrowed my dad's little compressor and used my air hacksaw from work. Drilled a pilot hole and worked my way around from there. Not too many hassles cept the hole is more square than round. You can't see it anyway so everyone ended up satisfied in the end.

The good samaratin has arrived!

It will only eat the paint away if it has caustic in it. Which this one doesn't.

Hey, just washed my car this arvo and being the experimental person that I am, I decided to add something new. I used my nomal car wash detergent and added half a cup of OMO MATIC front loader. My car has never been as shiny as it is now. Must be the enzymes. Dunno if it will work for everyone but I am definately using it again.

Edited due to change in part numbers.

Can I borrow someone's walking frame, mine snapped an axle when I launched it at the retirement home last week. BBQ's and Cruises go as well together as beer and pizza...I'm there.

1300 739 971 Martin from MBH Auto/Marine Detailing. He is mobile also. Wash, wax, chamios dry, wheel wash and tyres blackened is $22. He does have a buffing machine but you'll have to ring for a price on that. He said that a full buff on a commodore is $40. Good bloke and does a great job.

I disagree as adding nitrous is EXACTLY the same as bolting on a bigger turbo. When someone bolts on a bigger turbo, do you stand there and say "yeah but lets see what the engine produces with a turbo half it's size or let's take the turbo off completely and just see what the engine does without any boost". I would think not. Using nitrous is effectively only adding more oxygen to the process and there is a fine art to setting it up correctly. If someone wants to run nitrous, fine....they will pay the price for cheap horsepower if they have not set both it and the engine up properly. It takes skill and a very tough engine to run it safely at high levels as nitrous has nearly 2.5 times the air content of normal air which increases the risk of detonation and engine failure. Just think of it as adding another turbo for 10 seconds.

Also this one will help you pick the turbo of your choice http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bochargers.html

Anyone know how much Nos he was using?

Some education for members at this newly upgraded site...very informative for anyone who doesn't know how a turbocharger works, read through from beginner to expert. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech101.html

Have any of you thought about downloading the manual for your engine. There is a thread here somewhere that has heaps of them. It tells you everything you need to know about your engine and how to test different things. It also offers pull apart diagrams of everything for you to see how it works. Makes stuff a lot easier.

I vote for the quick release gear knob. Can't drive it if you can't put it into gear. Plus it is easier to carry around the shops on a Thursday night.

Nice work. Wish I had to $ to put something like that on mine. Gotta pay for a full paint job though so it's out of the budget. Did you use stainless mesh there or is it just the rustworthy stuff?

Give Wally a call on 3390 3999. Make sure you speak to him and not someone else. Or you can talk to John on 3245 1555

I spoke with the Mods mechanic today and he reckons that a full copy of the ADR should be available to view at the Brisbane public library.

Yes, you may all have copies of this....just pay the $70 for a copy of the ADR and it's all there. Other than that, there is a member who has a copy but I cannot remember who he was. He posted it in a reply to someone once so you might be able to do a search and ask him about it.

the two rules that apply are ADR 12 Glare reduction in field of view. ADR 69 Full frontal Impact occupant Protection DOTARS told me that for the 32's ADR69 does not apply but not 100% on the 33's, they did not mention them. The other usual rules apply with hinging and latching and scoops. So that means that on a 32, a fibreglass bonnet, carbon fibre or aluminium bonnet is completely legal as long as there is no excessive glare and hinges and is latched correctly. I do not see why this would be different for an R33. I would seriously contest any fines that have been issued as this has come from Department of Transport themselves.