The Dan

Before telling everyone they suck balls...how about you open the yellow pages and let my middle finger do the talking. Sometimes you may be surprised and find a decent paint/panel place listed there. It's not hard work, obviously no-one has had their car painted or the ones that have aren't reading this thread. Usually the most expensive ones do the best job. The bigger the firm, the more insurance work they do so the less time they have for ball sucking acusers who want a cheap job.

Treatment is usually about $25 and yes that did include a treatment. which means that if you supply the kit I will charge you $200 to fit it and do a full flush. You can buy the kit from REPCO and it costs like $55 or somewhere around that price. Just gimme a call sometime tomorrow. I am acting manager ATM so anyone else want even more discount.....this week is the time to do it.

I have decided that no-one deserves the right to paint my car so I'm doing it myself. Let's see how it turns out. If I stuff it I'll only be down a weeks work and $150 in paint. I have done it before so I think it's worth a try. I might post some pics when she's done....maybe.

Milanco, Chapman and Chapman, Mercury Motorsports

Yes, exactly like that.

Unsure yet but that's why he is getting them duplicated in taiwan so they should be pretty cheap.

At the moment he only has a black and white from one his business partner faxed him. It was on a 32 GTR that was driving in Japan. Ofcourse they are illegal over there. When he receives them I will get a colour photo and post it. From the picture I saw, they look awesome. Would really be a one of a kind I think. And would make those scape goat lights stand out a lot better.

I have a friend who is currently getting a set of LED taillights to suit the 32 and 33 skylines. He is then getting them ADR approved and sending them to Taiwan to be duplicated. Should be all completed within the next 3-6 months. Just wanted to find out if anyone is interested to know more.

I have a full set of RB20DET injectors that you are welcome to try before you buy if you like. 2 have been test cleaned so they don't have the pinzle caps or filter baskets in place. This means all six you have to be cleaned before you could use them. I had no problems with them before they cam to rest. Let me know if you are interested....I would probably want in the area of $150 for the whole set including rail.

Check the voltage at the battery when cranking. If the voltage drops to zero then you have a problem with the ignition. Check under the dash for any melted wires behind the ignition barrel. If the battery is brand new then remove it and try to start one of the above mentioned cars with it. This will rule out the battery. I have seen brand new batteries shit themselves. Have you tried doing a half turn on the ignition? If not, put the key into the ON position, then slowly turn the key towards START. Don't turn it all the way, just very slowly to see if maybe the barrel is passing the circuit. It is also possible that you starter motor is drawing too much current but I doubt it will drop all the way to 0.0 straight away.

Awesome stuff, you should put that in the howto thread if they still have it.

The timing check wire, which is part of the ignition module loom, needs to have the inductive pickup on a certain way. If you turn it around it will show massively advanced and then swap it back and it will show correct timing. For some reason mine doesn't do it but every other 32 and 33 that I have ever checked does this. Also make sure you get your idle right when setting timing. Set you cam angle sensor at the half way mark, then adjust your idle down to 650-750 RPM, re-check the timing and set from there. Try to use the idle adjustment to fine tune the timing angle.

I also think being a Type M has something to do with it. All of the 89 model Type M's that I have done have the consult plug. Maybe coincidance, however.

Did you check and clean the AFM?

First bet would be to check AFM as this will produce symptoms like you described and is easy to get to. It's a hard one to diagnose without looking at it myself but next step after that you could try checking all connections on AFM, TPS, Ignition module, cam angle sensor. After that I would try pulling an error code if it logged one. Go back to the shop that did it and ask to see their electronics protection device that they use when welding. Remember not to ring them and ask as they are easy to buy or borrow from somewhere else. Just go in and surprise them.

Yeah, sounds like they fried something when they welded your exhaust. Did they have a surge protector connected to your battery when they were welding or did they disconnect the battery when welding?

For the HKS one, have you tried emailing HKS for some english instructions?

You don't need part numbers. Just write down your VIN number and walk into your local nissan dealer. They will give you the correct part for your vehicle. The RB25 belt should be the same as the RB20 belt but genuine is the best way to go for quality on this item. The VL water pump WILL fit your vehicle.

Best way to learn is from your mistakes. Think of this in a possitive way. You did well to fix it yourself as most people would just start stressing and give up. Good work.

So far so good, have had a few members come to our workshop and they seem to be pleased. Hopefully we will see more of you guys in the future.

Minor service costs $89 including Semi Synthetic oil (Castrol FMX Magnatec 15/40) and oil filter (Z145A). Also includes full inspection of all components for service, brakes, exhaust, suspension, driveline, interior. We can also diagnose engine faults as we have a state of the art diagnostic scan tool and I also have a PLMS Nissan Consult. If you wish to provide your own oil and filter the service is $59.

I have an early 90 model series 1 that has a consult plug. They all should have it.

I asked him today about this and he is looking for me tomorrow. He thought that turbo was the same as the GT28R which is $1400. I asked him to do some more research on this one to find out what the go is. I will let you know when I do.

I am getting a price for you on a special turbo available now as a direct bolt on replacement for the GTR's. I asked him today and he will hopefully reply to me tomorrow. Like I said...direct bolt on, so everything just goes back where it came off. They are both twin ball bearing and rated at 300hp each. Highflows are gonna cost you $1400-$1800 depending on condition of turbos and how tough you want them. I dare say these other BB turbos will be around the $1700 mark but I will confirm tomorrow when he calls me.

GT40R is still 4 weeks away. They have a GT42R in stock but this would be too big for you. GT40R is rated at 650hp whereas the 42 is rated at 1000.