The Dan

Remove the starter motor.....2 x 14mm bolts on drivers side of car. Get the upper bolt from the top and jack up the car and get the lower bolt from underneath. Inspect the starter motor gear and slip clutch. Make sure it spins fairly freely. It will be firm but make sure you can actually turn it. Make sure there is all the teeth on the gear. With starter motor out you can also see the ring gear on the flywheel/flexplate and you should inspect tihs also. Make sure there are no missing teeth. Post pictures if you like or if you can.

The best way to remove the radiator is undo the 4 x 10mm nuts holding the fan on....remove the fan. Undo the 2 x 10mm bolts holding the brackets that hold the top of the radiator. Undo the top and bottom radiator hose clamps and remove hose from radiator. Disconnect green plug from drivers side of fan shroud. Slide radiator out from the top. Should take no longer than 10 minutes.

I am pretty sur they have one in stock now. I will definately check for you tomorrow. Price should be the same as on the front page but I will confirm when I enquire.

A GT25 and 28 both have a T2 flange for the exhaust housing so they won't just bolt up. You need something like a GT3071, they are much bigger than standard but not crazy. It is rated at 400-450 hp. It is available in a 0.63 A/R and 0.82 A/R. They are $1950 but I will have to confirm this just before purchase as the prices change slightly all the time.

I can vouch for the excedy clutch. It withstood 220rwkw of punishment from me for nearly 2 years. You should be able to buy it from a company called ATAP. (Australian Truck and Auto Parts). They are usually cheaper than everybody but I'm not sure if you can buy from them. I can because I go through the company but check them out anyway. If you have too many dramas then I can probably get one for you.

you would find that with more hydrocarbons exiting from the rear it would cause more black smoke but that would go hand in hand with poor fuel economy. The cat is fairly easy to check. Just jack up the car, put it on stands and undo from the side. Point it to the sky and look through it. You should be able to just see light through it with no apparent melted bits. As for the muffler, give it a couple of bashes from underneath....if it doesn't rattle, then there's a good chance there is nothing wrong with it. Try checking out some of the heat sheilding underneath as well. If any of it is loose or coming off, it will make an awful noise. Try this and let me know how it goes.

Now, now, no need for name calling. Everyone is here to help in one way or another.....some just more than others.

Before making reference to what you think I do and don't know...how about you go back and read exactly what I typed and then look carefully at both pictures. You will notice the first one which was for the throttle valve switch, you replied by saying that it was in fact the sensor that I wanted or was refering to. You will also notice the second picture which is, in fact, of the TPS. Then, here's the exciting part, when you look carefully....you see that I said YOU WERE RIGHT and I WAS MISTAKEN. I hope the letters were big enough for you to read and please don't assume that I know nothing as I simply misread the manual when I read it the first time.

I am sorry, I was definately mistaken and you were right.

He said the noise is only there when the pedal is in motion. Try lubricating the pedal mechanism with WD-40 and also grease the little cup on the carrier fork that the slave cylinder pin sits in.

No oil should flow where the carrier bearing or clutch is. Make sure the seals on the inner plate are intact still. Don't worry too much about the outside unless it's gonna be a show car. If there was a lot of oily residue on the inside of it before, it might be an idea to replace the seal on the input shaft just in case....seeing as though you have it out at the moment. Would save hassles later on and they don't cost that much.

Check fluid levels like Amaru said, plus check pump for leaks....located behind the steering for the rear. you could also try checking the ABS sensors behind the brakes. These are inter-related with the 4WD system and can cause it to go on and off if there are breaks in the sensor pad or if they are really dirty from a busted CV boot or something.

Try a water pump on a mini.

Cut wire 52 on the computer. Should be a green wire with a yellow trace or a yellow wire with a green trace....can't recall, it's been ages. Make sure you put a switch on it so you can exit from Hicas diag mode when you need to.

that's as dirty as ten dirty things. I be at it with the toothbrush if I were you. You never know how restrictive that grit can be.

If you disconnect the knock sensors, you should feel it very laggy until about 3800rpm then it should pull like a lonely uncle until about 5500rpm and go laggy again. If you overtighten the knock sensors they give a knock signal constantly. I forgot to ask also, does the car go better when you start driving it from stone cold or is it the same cold or warm? I ask this because your timing curve is different when you are in cold start mode.

I dunno if this will post right but here goes.....

You must not forget that knock sensors and AFM have a DIRECT effect on your ignition timing so just because your timing is jumping around, doesn't mean your computer is at fault. It could just be reacting to a faulty signal from something else.

Ratios?....the ratio is proportional to the air flow not fuel flow. A fuel pump can still pump 90psi but only flow 0.5 L per minute. In which case the car will severely lean out. Fuel systems have to be checked in multiple ways. You can't just say, do a pressure check and if pressure is ok, expect everything to be good. Fuel flow is just as important. Other checks should include injector pulse and duty cycle, leak checks (including injector leaks), injector flow, fuel filter (for blockages and cleanliness), fuel lines (for crimping), pump filter/pickup (for cleanliness), voltage to pump + signal to ECU, and regulator (for pressure hold). That's what I mean by fuel pressure means nothing. That's assuming the problem lies within the fuel system. If he has an air/intake problem things should be checked like: Air filter (clean?), turbo (noisy, shaft play, oil residue, blockages, visible damage to impellas or housings, exhaust leaks, wastegate actuator - which can be done with a tyre inflator , ensure wastegate is all the way closed, oil/water lines all sealed, intake tubing intact before turbo), inlet pipework (any visible leaks, corrosion?, take apart and inspect internals of tube for excessive oil deposits, hoses all clamped tight, spray water or carby clean over all connections to check for other inlet leaks or crimp blowby control hose from drivers side rocker cover to inlet plenum to ensure idle drops), throttle body (cleanliness), plenum (sealed?), inlet manifold (sealed, check for oily deposits around gasket), compression test (correct valve seating, leak down test to check for cracked ring land or ring). Then if there is a problem with ignition, things should be checked like: Spark plugs (discolouration - red tips means ignition fault - creamy white means perfect, black means rich and white means lean - there are others but that will get you by), coil packs - ensure that there is between 0.6 and 0.9 ohms resistance between + and - terminals on each coil pack (remove and inspect for cracks in bakerlite- greeny yellow at top of coil pack, pull off plug insulator and check coil electrode for cleanliness and ease of movement), wiring to coil packs (breaks or worn wiring), check ignition module for damage, make sure there is a STRONG earth connected to where the earth should - if not, DO IT, check wiring harness for breaks or heat stress - including harness to cam timing module and injector harness. After all these things have been checked and cleared - then, and only then, do you start picking at sensors and computers. If I looked at every car that I have ever worked on that had running faults and problems under load, have a guess how many of them I have replaced an ECU in. something like 2. An EL falcon because the AAC valve draws too much current and burns out the idle circuit in the ECU.....and our all time favourite - the TR Magna. If it has to be said again - START WITH THE BASICS More often than not your spark plugs will tell the story. If they don't, then look elsewhere. Gimme the car for 1 day and I could find and fix your problem. It's unfortunate that you live interstate or I would be tempted to do so.

Is the shaft snapped or just the blade? the cost of a highflow is proportional to the condition. If it is in good condition then you would be looking at somewhere between $1200-$1600 depending on how tough you want it. Depending on the series of R33 you have, if it is still a ceramic exhaust wheel then the benefit is that you can run higher boost more safely and mid to top end torque can nearly double. You can really feel the difference between a standard and a highflow.

I am pretty sure also that TPS will read somewhere near 10.5 V at WOT. I'll have to check the manual again, haven't got the time right now.

Hey all, I'm back thanx to a kind and understanding Blitz. Please continue with the pointless enquiries.

Change your diff oil , it only takes 2 litres or less. You will want to use Castrol EPX 80-90. Otherwise I would suggest for all of you that you get some Redline Shockproof. It is pretty much the best you can get but is fudgen expensive so I suggest getting in contact with a rep if you can and see if you can buy it through him/her.

I thought it went to 3.5-3.8V.