The Dan

Pressure doesn't mean anything. You need to do a flow test on the pump. Although doing a pressure test will sort of give you a fair indication it is still by no means an accurate fuel test. If it has been on a dyno, they should be able to pinpoint the problem straight away. If not, then they are not doing their job properly. A dyno is there to finely tune vehicles. They should know exactly what your timing is doing, your fuel flow and pressure, your air flow and air temp, your injector duty cycle and injector timing plus all the rest. I would agree with Bl4cK32 in saying that you have to start with basics. look at the fuel system and delivery, then move onto the ignition and plugs, then move onto your charge air. You should be able to look at the plugs and see what is going on in your engine. If not, pull them out, take a digital photo, post it up and I'll tell you what's going on in your engine. I still can't believe you have had it to a dyno three times and no-one can tell you the problem.

Sgood to see some more NON-skyline members taking interest in our community. I would say your are more welcome than most.

let's hope so....I thought I'd expand my empire a little

Yes, full engineering workshop.

Refer to thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/fo...ead.php?t=66186 I have direct contact with a Garrett dealer who is giving me great prices on new turbos. Anything Garrett, Holset, IHI, Cummins, Schweitzer. Delivery would be a tiny bit extra to VIC from QLD. about $50 I think maybe less.

None of this should ever happen. Your knock sensors should sense detonation and retard timing. All running lower octane fuel will ever do it cause the engine to run slightly slower. The pre-ignition involved in a 4-6 ron octane change is totally insignificant when you are talking about making an engine go backwards. This would never happen. As for cracking ring lands, unless you are running borderline timing figures and something stuffs up in your fuel system ie. reg lets go or pump stops then regular is not going to crack ring lands either. As for your gurgling popping noise when downshifting...did you set the TPS up right after removing it? if not and you have it set right on the switch point, it will cause it to run like shit. Check for any intake leaks by blocking the hose (crimp it) to your blowby control valve....if the idle drops then you have no intake air leaks, if it stays the same...start looking. How did the old plugs look? can you give a VERY accurate description of the colour of the insulated electrode or the negative electrode or outer case?

just make one, it's easy enough

Refer to thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=66186 I have direct contact with a Garrett dealer who is giving me great prices on new turbos. Anything Garrett, Holset, IHI, Cummins, Schweitzer.

Refer to thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=66186 I have direct contact with a Garrett dealer who is giving me great prices on new turbos. Anything Garrett, Holset, IHI, Cummins, Schweitzer.

How about remove the intake tube and check the turbo shaft for play. My money is on the thrust bearing being worn out. If it ends up being a turbo issue, let me know and I'll get you a good price on fixing it

Habizzle dizzle ma Squizzle. Sorry, had to be done before some other idiot did. Have a great day.

Just another way for the cops to know when you're baggin em up. They can just say they saw red. Or maybe the cops could get one red and one blue so everytime they pull a skid (everytime someone looks like jaywalking) they could match the lights up top.

I am trying to beat the Whoretown thread. Then I will rule the FORUMS!!!!!! aaaaahahahahaha.

That should be a direct bolt on. It is the T28/T25 style flange which a am 90% sure the 34's have. I cannot find out from anywhere so you'll have to check.

after 5 mins from stone cold my 32 only gets to right on or 1mm above the C mark

It is a good idea to mention what car you have too

What a wonderful world it would be if when you started a new thread it automatically did a search for related topics in the title and came back to you with some results you might want to try first. Then if still unsatisfied, you can continue to post your question. Or even put a notice to do a search beforehand so that people think of it. Everyday I read stuff that was answered 5 times 6 months ago.

You need to use something like a coke bottle cut in half and hold it into the radiator filler neck, then undo the bleeder nipple (not all the way, just enough to let the air out) and fill up the coke bottle. This makes the high point up front and forces the air out through the lower area (bleeder). Do this after the thermostat has opened for best results but be careful that you don't burn yourself.

Who cares about Dr Pepper and L&P...bring on the Scotch. Who wants a glass of Shivers?

That is gold. I love it. I will definately pay that one.

Sent a PM about 2 minutes ago

The GT25/30 and GT25/35 both do not come in a T3 flange.

OK. The HKS GT28/35 Pro S is equivalent to a Garrett GT25/60S and is not available in a T3 flange. It is $1855.

I am in your house. How the hell do I get out?

Did the timing belt plus cam and crank seals, service including engine, gearbox and diff oils for Crossie today. He supplied everything except the oil filter and it cost $270 It cost him $75 for the timing belt, $17.50 for the cam seals and $23 for the crank seal (all genuine), $45 for Motul turbolight 4100 5L, and $30 for 5L of EPX 80-90 gearbox and diff oil. Total of $460.50.