The Dan

why is that crazy, my old rotarysuggest 8 and 9's as standard. What I would like to know is this....how the hell does your boost blow the spark out. It's got me stumped. I thought the valves were all shut when the plug fired.

I now have the PLMS Nissan Consult. So if anyone in Brisbane would like diagnosis of problems I will be happy to help you out. It does pretty much every Nissan import. Virtually everything with the consult port. There are about 30 different scan points including things like AAC, TPS, Live timing, fuel pump, knock sensors, O2 sensor, AFM voltages, Aircon compressor, RPM and speed tests which also compensates for larger wheel diameter. There are many other options available. Keep in mind that nothing is free and although I am a generous person, a small fee will be charged to cover things like fuel and the use of the scan tool. PM for more details if anyone needs it or is interested.

Ok, well it doesn't exactly sound cheap to me but here goes. Retail on the flush by itself is $249 and has a gauranteed 98% flush. Which basically means that it is gauranteed to remove at least 98% of the old fluid including the converter. The trans kit you can buy aftermarket from Repco and costs about $50 as opposed to the $100 from Nissan. Usually we charge around $40 plus the cost of the kit to do a trans kit. That comes to a total of about $339. The boss said he would do the flush for $199 OR if YOU supply the trans kit the whole lot for $225. I don't really know if that's a decent price because I never pay retail for anything and I don't know what everyone else charges. Labour will be charged out at $60 per hour as opposed to $77 per hour. For things like some oils that are $12 per litre (gearbox) retail you would only pay around $8 per litre. The trans flush is inclusive of fluid of course and just to clear up, if you walk in with the trans kit in your hand, we will fit it and do a full flush for $225. If you just want the flush done it will cost $199.

There is Garrett USA and Garrett Japan. I think there are a few more but they are the main ones. All of our stuff comes from Garrett Japan. There are a few differences between the Garret range from USA and Japan also so you have to be very careful of what you read on the internet as it may be misleading.

I know 100% that the 2530 is avail in a T3 for the HKS model but I don't know for the Garrett version. My rep is finding out for me tomorrow as I asked him this afternoon.

Sorry mate. I did ask them and they were supposed to be getting back to me. I'll get onto them again tomorrow.

The brand is Garrett and they are made in Japan. They are imported by a company called Honeywell in Sydney.

Hey, let's see if I can get this thread to ten pages before someone actually buys one.

Yes that is correct. The 2530 is a T2 foot but I think you are still able to get it in a T3. I will see if I can find out tomorrow for you. If not, you would need an adapter plate made to suit it or get a custom manifold. The adapter plate a fairly easy to do but you would have to supply the manifold so that I can have it done for you. I don't know exactly how much it would cost but I can find out.

I'd reckon you are spot on. Prices for them change almost daily depending on how many he is buying but $1900-$2000 for the GT30R with 0.82 A/R. BTW good choice. They have one on the shelf ready to go I believe.

T04B is $2200. Retail is $3000.

Yes, I can get a T04B but I'll have to check on a price for you tomorrow. No I can't get highmount manifolds or external wastegates...well I can but for not much cheaper than you can. Normal trade discount for things like that. Talk to Slide if you want manifolds or wastegates or visit his website.

Those turbo's have not been released yet. They are still at least 8 weeks away. And will cost you $2050. They retail for $2800

ADD are shit. I don't need to get any work done there to know that because I have spoken to them. I rang them pretending to not know anything about anything and the whole time he bullcrapped on about what I needed (or what he thought I needed). I didn't even want the things he was talking about and he didn't even answer the question I asked. They talk crap, they are rip off's and they don't backup their warranty (known from a good friend that was ripped off there). Sure they might have some nice cars rolling around but too many others have been ripped off by them to cover it up. These are facts from people I have known my whole life who used to go there. My 3 cents.

I suppose so. I have never needed to crank it that long but yeah, just unplug the grey plug located infront of the ignition module. It should also be attached to the same place as the small earth wire.

no need to disconnect anything. Just hit the key. you only want to use the force of the motor to crack the nut so only a split second is required. It is definately by far the best method short of a rattle gun and some times better. As long as you hold the head of the wrench on there it won't hit you in the face or come off. It is kinda frightening at first but when you have done a few hundred you get used to it. Make sure the extension is under the chassis rail and not something soft that can move. Close your eyes and brace yourself, then hit the key and she comes straight off. You also want to make sure your ratchet is strong enough otherwise it will break. A breaker bar is preferable to a ratchet. sorry about the inbox full, try again

I have seen a gearbox DESTROYED , not damaged, by doing it this way. I have also been told by numerous gearbox specialists of the damage that can be caused. I am a mechanic and see this stuff all the time. I witnessed another mechanic attempt the same method and all you could hear was POP and then the car would not drive again. Gearbox came out, was sent to the local gearbox shop and was told that by forcing the gearbox in that way was what caused the damage.

Check or replace your fuel filter and check other items such as coil packs and plugs. If you want to find out if the coil packs are crossfiring, get one of those water sprayers (like hairdressers use) and spray a fine mist over the top while it is running. You will see the sparks arcing across. And don't worry, a little water mist will not do any damage as long as you don't drown them. Just a couple of squirts. Also check the earth wire to the ignition module and ensure it is tight. Try removing the AAC valve and inspecting it for cleanliness.

Then get a rattle gun and remove the radiator and air con rad also. Then you will be able to get it. There is also a tool you can buy for about $45 which is designed to do the same job without the removal of all these items. You should be able to get it from repco. You will need a large hammer to operate it. On the gearbox issue, it will damage your gearbox, trust me...don't try it.

You can use a 14mm spanner on the closest side to the block. Easier to get at from underneath and behind the R/F wheel. That is of course if you can get underneath. On the issue of your oil pump....if you own a skyline, which I assume you do, you cannot remove the oil pump without removing the sump. Do not even attempt to as you will wreck the sump trying and you won't be able to re-seal the pump when you figure out you have gone too far. Also, you probably won't be able to get the timing belt lower gear off for reasons I won't get into, which means that removing the pump will be almost certainly near impossible without either breaking the gear or the pump. If you have any queries PM me and I will be happy to point you in the right direction.

if you do that whilst in gear and handbrake on, you WILL damage your gearbox. Do it by getting a breaker bar, or if you think your ratchet is strong enough - add an extension pipe to the handle, place the end of the bar UNDER the left (passenger) chassis rail and while holding the head of the ratchet in place (so that it doesn't fall off), get someone to hit the key. If you search you will also find a huge thread that already covers this and all the questions you need to know. As for the valve thing, as long as the belt is still on, the camshafts turn with the crank so you don't have to worry about bending valves.

Can you show me where you saw a GT35/40R with INTERNAL gate as every single one I have ever seen is EXTERNAL.

Very nice Terry. Anytime you want me to show you how to use that grinder, let me know. Now all you need is a bigger turbo to get you to 280 rwkw.

I am yet to see a turbo that is rated at 700hp that is internally wastegated. They don't have wastegates big enough and even if you could get one made, you would suffer boost creep something major. The fact is...if you want a turbo rated at 700 hp...you need to have external gate. I can probably get something made in internal gate but it will be totally useless.

OK, 1 x Garrett GT30R 0.82 Ex A/R Rated at 600hp has now arrived. Stuffs me why the others aren't in yet but I am still waiting. GT25/35's are on the shelf. So are GT25's rated at 350 and 400 hp. A whole range of T3 flanged turbos are to be released soon which I am also keen to see. Answering the question above, The HKS GT28/35 Pro-S is a GT28 Turbine with a GT35 Compressor (52 trim). I'll find out tomorrow what code and price. None of these turbos come with oil and water lines. If you want oil and water lines....buy a HKS. I can't buy the kits seperate. You are only looking at around $200 to get braided lines made up anyway. As long as the manifold flange is the same style.