The Dan

Cool, I'll find out what I can The water lines are only gonna be around 15-17 PSI. The oil lines I think are only feed. I don't know if they are under pressure, if they are...it will be engine oil pressure. between 20-60 PSI depending on revs. 'A/R is the ratio of the exhaust housing refering to the size and shape of the scroll that is cast into the housing. It determines how restrictive the housing will be, versus how quickly the turbine will spin up. A lower A/R ratio results in a more restrictive housing. This restriction speeds up the exhaust gasses and increases the amount that the gasses will expand. It's the speed and expansion of the gasses that causes the turbine to spin. So with a low A/R ratio, the turbine will spin up quicker, but as engine output and rpms increase, the restriction of the housing begins to build up too much back pressure on the engine, which reduces performance. A good rule of thumb for when there is too much back pressure is when the pressure in the exhaust manifold is more than half of the pressure in the cylinder. So basically, a larger A/R ratio will improve your engine's top end, while losing some mid range power and increasing turbo lag. A smaller A/R ratio will help the bottom and mid-range, but may effect the top end.'

I think it is just you. I can't see any + sign

Gap should only be set to .8mm when you are boosting 1 bar or more. 1.0 mm is fine for standard boost aplications. You can remove the wastegate actuator and slot the holes to up the boost. It will come on more suddenly then before. I would not recommend doing this unless you know what you are doing as you might stuff it. Another trick is to set up a tight spring on the pod's arm, it will delay opening and give you harder boost but beware, it will spike a couple of pound before resting on your set value.

You should replace the carrier bearing. Make sure you give the input shaft on the box a light lube with some grease before putting it on. Replace the extension housing seal at the back of the box also.

They are the same block.... I would have thought the box would go straight up to it.

So how does one become a 'member' of Team Sh&%box racing anyway? I was just wondering coz I own one of them and need to belong to something.

Sorry, that's what I meant. Crap...I can't believe I wrote that

The other recommended turbo for that output is the one I have which is rated to approx 450hp. It is the GT25 with 0.82 A/R. Mine is kinda a hybrid make up by Garrett and is only 0.7 A/R. That one needs quite a few mods to fit. Change oil supply line, water supply lines, flange to dump, adaptor to manifold, relocate AFM, 4" base K&N filter.

probably around 300 engine horsepower. You can go for something like a T04 with a T3 exhaust flange. You would need the V1/P Compresor/Turbine trim and 0.82 A/R which is rated to 300 kw approx.

for that kind of horsepower on that engine you would need the GT30 with 0.82 a/r rated at 475hp. It won't bolt straight up. Even if you hi-flowed his standard one it would not be able to cope with that output.

hahaha. Bolt straight on, thats funny.

say it as one word. lmfao

I don't hate the game, I hate the game-an

oh, I almost forgot. The battery thing too, the law doesn't say just sealed either. It says it must be sealed and ventilated.

Tyre size is easy. Any tyre shop can tell you the nominal rolling diameter of any tyre size. with that said, the width issue is also simple. If your vehicle comes out standard with 215/50/16's like my R32 does, that means that I can go up to roughly a 275 wide tyre. The only problem is finding a combination that will also fall under the rolling diameter law. in which case I would probably need something like a 275/35/16 which I don't think they make. I SERIOUSLY doubt you would have anything wider than that on your car. I even think the R33's come out with 225's as standard don't they? With the exhaust, you'll have to find a resonator that has glass packing instead of fibreglass or stainless packing. Glass packed mufflers/resonators deaden sound like you would not believe. If it comes down to it, you can still buy another 3inch straight through fibre packed muffler and put it in just behind the cat or something. You will knock it down from roughly 110 db to 90 db by doing that alone. Ditto on the tint issue....that is crap unless they test it. Boost controllers are illegal from what I am told. I think you can still argue that the vehicle is fitted with factory boost control (wastegate actuator). But I think the problem is with the adjustability. Under bonnet is fine I think, as you cannot turn it up or down while driving.

Slide: Are you naturally ghey or did you have to practice really hard? :jk:

Take it to a mechanic who has an oil pressure guage, get him/her to test it for you. Or you can invest the $150 for an electric oil pressure guage, you will get a new sender that matches the guage. My Autometer has never let me down yet.

13028m

That is the first line you should be putting on when installing the turbo. Really the only way to do it is by removing the dump pipe and reaching in from behind. Also if you want some more room, take off all the intake tubing (yes....all of it - except right at the intercooler) and you can get your left arm in from the front and your right arm in from the back. You will have to throw your shoulder right down close to the firewall as you have to curl your right arm up from underneath. It is very difficult to get at but with some patience you will get it. If not, undo the 4 17mm turbo mounting nuts and pull back the turbo as well. Then you can get at it from the top, it's all down hill fom there. Make sure the fitting is still at the correct angle and position. To check this.....remove the banjo nut and copper washers and push the line into its position. If it sits flush with the connection point and does so with minimal effort, then it should be ok. If not, bend it gently to achieve the correct angle. If you can't bend it, use a 14 or 15mm spanner to bend it as if you were turning a nut. Do not get frustrated with it....your best work will be done with a clear head. You will get hand cramps but they will go away. If I was down there I would do it for you but sorry I can't help any more than that.

Sometimes the brand of USB adaptor can effect the interface. Usually the more expensive ones are better. Also, have you tried looking at this site: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.htm

yeah, my GTST guage reads false also. The other guages you tried, did you just run them to the original sender or did they come with their own? Try going to an electrical outlet and buying a multimeter with a thermocouple. Set it up in the top hose and go for a drive. If it is under 90 degrees then it should be fine. Anywhere between 76 and 90 in tropical climate. Hobart might run slightly cooler. Try replacing the temp sender if you have not already.

The only way to find out for sure would be to ring Exeddy. I'm pretty sure the only difference is the manufacturer.

Dont use manifold cement. If you must use anything, use blue silicon that is sensor safe. I don't recommend using this very much either but it is the pick of the two. Just go and buy new gaskets. If there is one thing I have learned while owning this car, it is that you never compromise for doing the job right. You have gone to all the trouble of draining it properly, when there are plenty of other ways to do it more simply and less thorough, so spend the extra $10-$20 to do the rest of it properly. Just my opinion.

What problem are you having?

Was good fun. Had to stop and try to fix a Swift near the end after everyone hit the horizon. (buggered alternator) Finished up well with everyone happy overall I think.