The Dan

I'll see what I can find out.

Well, pipe is pipe, so I won't go there but it really goes off what we can get from our supplier. We deal through pretty much everyone from undercar to proex to walker for basic stuff. They can get their hands on a huge range of performance brands. I'm not too cluey on what some of the decent brands of mufflers are for performance stuff as we don't get that many requests but if you name what you want, I should be able to get it. And seeing as though we are an exhaust shop also, we get unbelievable discount on exhaust parts. Quick question.....for anyone.... Can anyone tell me what you would pay for a 3" hi-flow catalytic converter? Minus fitting of course, but that only takes half an hour. I'll give you the figure to divide it by. Short and long.....gimme some brands, I'll wave my wand and see what I can do. Just to re-cap on another post though, the offer might not last long as I told my boss to go f#$k himself the other day and we are only just on speaking terms at the moment. It should be ok but if I die.....avenge me! nah just kidding. It should be ok but be quick. I can at least buy you parts on my 2 weeks notice lol.

Hey, I just realised, what with all these people saying hello recently, that I did not actually say hello to everyone back when I signed up. So here it is................ Hi everybody!!!! Love, Dan.

GT30R is $1900. I'll re-confirm the GT35R price on Monday when I pick up mine.

For the GT17/15 From scratch around $12-1300 If you supply the turbo he can change the compressor wheel and machine the housing for around $400. He can't balance the shaft as it is roller bearing.

yeah, and it won't be like last time. I have direct contact with this guy and he won't give me bogus quotes like with the fuel pumps......sorry again.

Exhaust you say.......well that's all you had to say. Bring it in to me tomorrow if you like and I will get a quote done up. We have one of the best exhaust fitters working for us ATM. If you get the dump pipe from BATMBL we can do everything from there back, new cat, the lot. I will even purchase the cat at trade price for you off the side *wink* so you will save a couple/few hundred dollars as I can buy a 3 inch hiflow cat for less than half what you would at an exhaust shop. The cannon is another story, I can get them in all different brands, shapes, sizes. And once again less than half retail so you can even save more again. EG. Mirage (GF's) Full system including extractors, new cat, 2 1/4 inch, huge double wall stainless cannon on the back at 45 degrees. all for just $400. I cannot pass on the same kind of discount but I can probably knock that $1000 down to $600-$700 for you. CES make the best exhaust - BAR NONE. I have never seen exhaust that good before. They cost a friggin fortune. like $3000 for a full system or something like that. PM me if you are interested.

Yeah I had a friend that read the same manual. He disconnected the battery when he went to Japan for 6 months. Lost his tune when he cam back. We dunno why. There are still more effective ways to prevent people from driving your car like I suggested above. This would be a far better option than disconnecting the battery. Also with the tyre thing. Pump all your tyres to 50 psi before you leave and you will not have that problem. My car sat for 8 months and the tyres are still perfect.

Hehehe.....^ :newbie:

Pick up the phone, dial their number and ask them. That and the fact that you haven't stated which bushes you wanted.

correct. I can confirm this. That little beeper is the most annoying thing. Especially when it's dieing.

Have you done a search yet coz I know of a few threads that cover this question. Anyway. If it doesn't leak, it doesn't matter. It is a good idea to get 'em fixed anyway but it's up to you. Easiest way to check for leak is get a 1 meter length of garden hose and use it to listen around the manifold where it bolts to the head. This will amplify the sound and you will be able to locate any leaks. If there are none, then don't worry about it. BTW - do this test with the engine running. P.S. use the search function next time - it is very helpfull.

$1900 mate.

Well, I haven't picked it up yet but tomorrow should be the day. He told me it should bolt straight up but he won't know for sure until it arrives. It's not an off the shelf jobby, it's a custom made turbo from Garrett. If it doesn't bolt up straight off then he can make any mods so that it does. As for the flanges, they should be all the same. I think the only difference might be the oil feed line. Mine has been threaded instead of the standard 2 bolt flange.

Try this. Stand at the front of the car with the bonnet closed and see if you can hear it. Then open the bonnet and stand at the front of the car. Is the noise still as loud or does it change?. With the bonnet closed - push down on the side of it to see if the noise changes note or volume. Try bouncing on the suspension to see if it changes. Long shot but get your exhaust checked. Sometimes noises can be very deceptive as to their location. It is very likely that the noise could be on the opposite side of the car but it sounds like it's coming from the driver's side. So is the noise definately louder from inside the car than out or is it just louder inside than out when the bonnet is up. (if you know what I mean ) ?

I work at Midas but I dunno how much longer I'll be there. I told my boss to go f#$k himself today. He didn't like that. Then he came begging to get me to stay so I dunno. I might still be there when you get back. We'll have to talk over a beer or 24. Turbo's you say.....I love to exploit my trade discount so let me know what you need.

Lifters Shims are only spacers which space the buckets to the followers. They come in all different thicknesses for setting valve clearance instead of hydraulic or adjustable. They can be found on GTR's. The GTST's don't have shimable buckets, they have hydraulic lifters.

Well there is another ball bearing turbo which is the model beneath mine. Is rated to 350hp and I think it was $1300 or so. I'll have to confirm.

Ok I asked him today about all above questions. The Hi-flowing of the RB25 turbo starts at $1100. He said the prices are hard to be competitive as there are a lot of backyarders doing it for a little cheaper. It also depends on the condition of your existing turbo. If there are oil leaks or damaged shafts it will cost extra. The GT15/17...he is getting back to me on a price for this one. I didn't manage to call him back after work so I'll find out tomorrow (Friday). One thing he did mention was that many off the shelf turbos are becoming very hard to get and may take a month or so to get as with some models the suppliers have run out of stock and are waiting on new shipments to arrive. The exhaust housing for the TD06 - he wants to know what ratio you want to run as there are many different ratios available for the TD06. This turbo comes out on the Canter he told me and there is a wide variety of sizes. Strutto - He does not know any particular vehicles driving around with his turbos because he supplies to all the local and not so local performance shops. He said that John Schott(sp) of Salisbury buys a great deal through him. They do fitting and stuff like that also but his customer base is really based on supply most of the time.

BTW, where do you work?

Metal head gaskets 101: Not very reliable - only sealed by sealant Very overpriced and not necessary unless you will be looking at figures above 500hp at the wheels. You must get copper rings made onto the block surface around the pistons - Expensive If it blows - people say they are re-usable but not always the case. Ultimately it is up to you, but I would seriously talk to a few performance shops around and get more information before you make up your own mind. I considered doing it to mine when I did the rebuild too but it was going to cost nearly $800 to get it done and I was told by many that it was not necessary with only 400hp and that it is easier for the head gasket to blow through the sealant.

How much did you pay for that awesome piece of machinery?

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You will find that after that amount of time the PFC will drain of all residual memory and you will be left with any base mode that it came with. You are better off removing the coil ignitor or something like that. If someone really wanted to start your car, it would not be hard to get a battery into it. With the ignitor, I don't know of anyone who just carries one around with them so the chances of anyone stealing it or driving it are virtually nil.

Why not from Nissan or Repco? I got my full set from Repco about 2-3 months ago. It is a monotorque set. Excellent quality and most of the gaskets are either geniune or imported from Japan anyway. Metal head gasket is not worth getting done as you will have to get the block ringed to suit it. Also if you are not putting out any decent horsepower then it is a waste of time for the $300 they cost to buy. You could get your head ported while it is off. That is if you are planning to get the valves reseated. You might as well squeeze 50 more horsies outta your engine. Is the leak definately coming from the head and not a rocker cover gasket or something silly like that? PM me if you still wanna buy the gasket set and I'll get it a lot cheaper than you can.....a lot cheaper.