The Dan

Try getting the injectors cleaned but I think your problem might be more Air flow related. It is very unlikely that it will be a regulator problem but don't rule it out. I think I have replaced like 1 reg to a hundred pumps.

How does it run once it has warmed up. Does it still blow black smoke? If the plugs don't work, check for vacuum leaks and check the coolant temperature sensor resistance.

I'm pretty sure that is a one way valve. I didn't know there was a filter in the system.

Any of the Motul Turbolight range. Any Mobil Synthetic or any Castrol Synthetic or Semi Synthetic like Formula R Synthetic or FMX or Mobil 1 synthetic. I have also heard that the Repsol oil is a cut above the rest. Try to run something around 10-15w40 or even as light as a 5w40. Sometimes a 5 can be too light but some people here have no problems running it. Just make sure it is a good brand. They all do the same job essentially, and as long as you are doing regular oil changes, any of the above will be perfect. It all really comes down to how much do you want to spend?

The only difference in the water pumps in the Skylines is the GTR ones.

I'm pretty sure they are the same. They are exactly the same block. You should be able to get the bearing from CBC (consolidated bearing co). You will have to press out the old bearing from the pulley and put the new one in. Give them a call or go in with your tensioners, they should be able to match them up.

Usually more noisy when cold as they have to fill with oil to 'pump up'. When they are warm, the oil is thinner and, therefore, fills them up more easily.

Take it to an auto-electrician. They can usually rebuild them for you or get you a replacement.

What do you mean..silly for me to ask as in too high or too low?

Good way to tell if you are in the wrong or not....tell the cop he is the biggest f@#k head....if he doesn't say anything, you are in the right. If he gets angry then start running. lol. Just kidding. I got pulled up a couple of months back for no reason. I had to pop my bonnet. He tried to defect me for having an ATMO BOV. Luckily I had covered it with some filter foam. He couldn't do 5hit. It's all about knowing your rights and the law and being confidant about it. He tried to defect me on a whole range of other stuff after that but to no avail. I said "sorry, you aren't gonna get any money outta me today". He was really pi55ed and followed me around for the next half hour to try and get for anything he could. So I phoned through to thelocal police and complained that I had someone following me dangerously. They told me to drive to them. When I pulled into the police station the cop just took off really fast. I mad a formal complaint and the Snr sergeant appologised to me for the other guy's stupidity.

Have you checked the 4WD fuse. It is located on the top left of the fuse box I think. Under the steering column to the right. It will say on the fuse cover - 4WD

Price will never go below $16,000. Buy a standard one if you want to spend any less. I have spent $9,000 on mods alone - That's all trade price and no labour. The car owes me $26,000 so $16,000 is a fair price I think. I am looking to upgrade - or downgrade - to an R33 minty stocker. So I can be a Nanna driver and attract less attention.

Law states that if they pull you over, they have to have a good reason to search your vehicle to begin with. Also, if they do a search, it has to be done off the road in a safe location no more than 5 kms from where they pulled you over. They ARE NOT allowed to search or inspect your vehicle with you standing on the side of the road - this is endandering your life. You have definate grounds for complaint.

definately not 3.8L. 2.5 sounds correct. Nothing to worry about as long as you have close to that amount now. General rule is to only fill until it comes out of the filler hole.

I got my clutch master from BHSS. It cost me $75. Dunno about the slave but it should be cheaper than that. Is a very common problem. The brake master tends to go on them also so watch your fluid levels regularly. The clutch master and slave can be changed in less than half an hour.

You would get change from $800 if you did it yourself. Plus without knowing the condition of the head it is impossible to give an accurate quote as if the head is bent it will cost $600 to get a full head service and straightened. Now I'm sure even if you got the $450 VRS set for free, you would still not get away with $800. Worst case scenario is: Full head service $600 VRS $450 (assuming you can buy the VRS seperate from the full kit which is $600) Labour - 9 hrs - $500 Oil and filter change - $50 Coolant - $30 Timing Belt - $80 Plus you have to account for broken exhaust studs, hylomar spray and any vacuum lines or hose clamps that may break while doing the job. Total worst case scenario is: $1730 approx If you can get a second hand head that is already straight or the head you have is still straight, the price would then drop to $1250 plus the cost of the second hand head if so required. If you do it yourself you would save the $500 labour so then it would drop to $750 for a straight head and $1230 for a bent one.

You are low. lol The reason for the turbo blowing was oil contamination caused by the bearings failing caused by the bent cradle. All is fixed now....except turbo. Entire centre and shaft has to be replaced. I'm selling for $15,000 with the blown turbo. Still $16,000 if I fix it. A lot of dollars spent on this engine.

Power flush with a Wynns flush machine will set you back around $159 to $169. Nothing special really. It virtually only the products that you are paying for.

I'll see if the manual has it.

If it is between gear changes ie. back off accel temporarily, then an exhaust leak can also cause this kind of popping. Nothing to be concerned about.

Well I got one for $80 second hand (obviously) but I have been quoted up to $250. It really depends on demand at the time and how many left in the country. A brand new one should set you back around $800 from Nissan.

As long as the actuator pod can receive an accurate amount of boost to activate the diaphram. Usually it's not a good idea to T piece from the same line but a simple pressure test will tell the story.

One thing to always remember when replacing bushes, if it comes with a liquid filled bush, put a liquid filled bush back in. If it comes with a voided bush, put a voided bush back in. Otherwise you can develop really bad vibrations while accelerating.

If you grab another pulley, just be sure to check all grooves before assembly as they come out in many different forms as Bl4ck32 stated. Some are V groove, some are 3 rib and some are 4 rib. Just make sure the number of ribs match up to the pulley. Don't worry if you find one with a 3 rib on the very end and your Power steer is a 4 rib. You can still use a 3 rib belt on the power steer, you just have to make sure the grooves match up on the crank pulley.

And that concludes our class today on idiotic practices 101. Next week will be looking into the reasons why morons don't know the road rules. We have a special this month also. Phone now and you'll get a FREE sign to display to moron drivers, it reads - Move over d#$kwad, you're only supposed to be in the right lane in a 90 zone if you're overtaking. Our first 10 callers will also receive our how to booklet which describes "10 ways to reload your shotgun while changing gears".