The Dan

Not the knock sensors. Plus to top it all off I blew the turbo on the way home....brand new rebuild turbo. I'm selling the car now. I haven't got the money to throw in an aftermarket computer and fix the turbo if they won't do it under warranty.

If light comes on, switch car off...no matter what. The thickness of oil is not going to make a great deal of difference. Not to cause the light to come on anyway.

How big is the chunk? Can you post a picture?

Don't wait until you get the new guage. Get the oil pressure tested with a mechanical guage immediately. Idle should be roughly 15-20 psi 2500-3000 should be roughly 25-30 psi 4000-5000 should be roughly 35-40 psi 5500-6500 should be roughly 45-55 psi

You need to shorten the pickup tube and buy some fuel hose to adapt it. You have to cut the base off the bracket as well so that the new pickup area is unrestricted. Very very easy job.

Capalaba. 0418770716 or 0417784172

So why is it some big secret as to what he/she was actually doing at the time?. It's not like it is classified information. Or is it?

Anyone form Queensland be interested in buying my car? I'm selling for $16,000 Car - 90 Model R32 GTST Type M Mods - Full 3inch exhaust with wastegate bypass, 500hp Garrett GT Twin Ball Bearing Turbo, Large PWR front mount intercooler, Bosch 500hp fuel pump, Malpassi Reg, Ross forged pistons, Shot peaned connecting rods, balanced and blueprinted internals, Race main bearings and competition big ends, Air/Fuel guage and oil pressure guage on dash, 4 puck button clutch, Lightened flywheel, Sports steering wheel and Pod filter, Water Sprayed intercooler, ported head. 250rwkw running 12 PSI Boost. Has done 5000 km's since rebuild. Tyres have almost 3/4 tread. New discs on front. All new heater hoses. New timing belt, New drive belts. New thermostat. Paint job on front of bonnet leaves a little bit to be desired ie. stone chips.

BTW, how much did they charge you for the O2 sensor? Where did you get it from? and did you get the universal or the proper ford one with the plug.

That sounds a bit dodgy. I went to Jaycar electronics and bought a whole new plug and just crimped the connections down on both side. *click* she works like a charm...no solder.

Retail for the RB20 engine is around $600. This is a monotorque set with imported gaskets and seals from Japan. Most likely some genuine parts in there. Ring someone like Autobarn or Repco. They will be able to get you a price. The RB25 should be around the same. I can probably get one for $400 for you if you ask nice. Of course you would have to pay for postage.

I have got a 2004 model OTC Scanpro at my fingertips. I would have thought also that a constant engine knock would cause some type of error code. None so far. When I disconnect the knock sensor plug, it has full power inversely. Meaning that usually it dies in the arse between about 3500 to 6000. When I disconnect the plug it nearly snaps your neck in half as soon as it reaches 3800 on the dot every gear, every time. That's why I'm kinda leaning towards knock sensors. I have fully tested and replaced everything else. I know it is a timing problem, I can feel it. Getting full boost, full fuel, full spark....just no power. I gotta go out to work tomorrow and get a deep drive socket so I can crack 'em. So unfortunately results won't be posted until tomorrow arvo probably.

Might as well add my 2 cents. Car - Series 1 R32 GTST Mods at the time - Hybrid Hyflow Turbo, Turbo back Zorst with wastegate bypass, Big front mount, Bosch fuel pump, Malpassi Reg. Problem - 3 inch heater hose under inlet manifold blew while driving on highway. Dumped all water content from engine in a matter of seconds. As I was doing 100 the air cooled the engine so the temp guage read normal until all water had exited. Then temp guage read normal as it does when no water is in engine. Drove for about another 15 km until she konked out. Pulled over. Waited on sode of road for half an hour. Found out my own brother wouldn't even come and help me out so I started her up again and drove for another 10 km until she konked out. Waited another half hour for her to cool down then started her up again to get to the top of the hill at the servo where I had some more light. Managed to get some heater hose from a friend who drove out to save me and I fixed it. Filled her up with water and away she went. Drove her around for another week or so but she kept boiling over when I would turn her off. I knew the head gasket was blown already so I pulled her apart. Everything was still perfect. No shrunk pistons. No cracks. No bends. Nothing. Decided to go with Ross forged pistons anyway. Had the engine balanced and blueprinted. Rebuilt engine in my spare time. Got her running again. Did 2500 km and she blew all main bearings. Found that it had a hung cradle and was sporting a fantastic 55 thou bend in the centre. I cracked the crank in 4 places and bend the crank 8 thou in the centre and 5 thou on the snout. Must fill in a small blank - while doing the 2500 km from the first build I blew the turbo as the gunky boiled oil had been sitting on the bearings for so long that it just chewed them out. Had the turbo rebuilt. Cost me $900 as it had completely stuffed the centre peice. Found that the oil pump was also shagged as the main bearings had gone through it. Picked up a complete N/A Auto bottom end for $200. Had the crank crack tested and polished and balanced. Oil pump was perfect so I used that one too. Bought a whole new set of bearings and had the cradle straightened and shot peened. I'm up to 800 km now on the second rebuild. This time it is perfect.

This is exactly true. All I am saying is....don't go and cut someone's brake lines and not tell them about it. And before anyone reply's to that, I don't mean that literally. I'm sure Nugget_GTR can manage to brake on his own without the ABS. And I'm sure that always_me doesn't intend to put Nugget in danger. But....you have to remember that Nugget is relying on the words of others who may or may not be more experienced than he is. If you are to offer advice here then make sure you know the consequences so that Nugget can make up his own mind.

I may have a new lead on my power loss problem. I don't know how many of you remember my posts about the AFM. Well turns out that there is no difference after all. I have recently learned that I may have overtightened my knock sensors causing the crystal to stretch, creating a false knock signal constantly, causing the timing to be constantly retarded on accelleration. I was just wondering if anyone here may have experienced a similar problem? I'm gonna wait until the morning when she's cooled down and torque them properly. I'll let you all know how it goes.

This is actually illegal in Queensland.

Sorry, I must have typed that at the same time.

The worse the carrier bearing gets, the more it can wear out the clutch. If it seizes, it'll wear down the face of the bearing, then the clutch won't fully disengage. Some don't get like that but it can happen. If there were a problem with the gearbox, I would imagine you would be able to hear it while driving, as neutral is not a loaded position. More likely to be the carrier bearing. If the noise sounds bad then get it changed immediately. Get the clutch done at the same time as OFENSV mentioned. Should cost around the $600 mark for an upgraded clutch fitted drive away. Would prolly cost around $200-$250 to just do the Carrier bearing (which only costs about $15). It often pays to do the rear main seal while your in there but it should be ok if it's not leaking at all. There is a test you can do to tell the difference between the carrier bearing and gearbox noise. Just rest your foot on the clutch to take up the free play. Don't push it to the floor. This will push the carrier bearing up against the pressure plate but won't disengage the clutch. If the noise goes away like before, then the carrier bearing is the one.

Well, do I really need to tell anyone how I feel about the local authority.

Can I get a discount on the membership coz the sponsors discounts are useless to me anyway...lol just kidding. How much was it again Erin?

For you mate, anything. Just let me know in advance.

I can imagine it now........ Skyline Driver : Minding own business. Commo Driver: Yelling stupid crap out window like 'yeah, I can drift....watch me!'

If you wanna get one done on your way through. Stop in at Brissy and I can organise one through work. We get a third party in to write the RWC for us. He does a basic inspection but relies mostly on our extensive inspection of your vehicle *wink*. Seeing as though it's an import and I drive one, my boss is a bit of a toss so he'll give it to me to inspect. It'll give you an excuse to have a bit of a look around in brissy on your way up and as long as there are no major defects I can pretty much assure you of a pain free RWC. Pm me if you are interested.

Whoa, I guess someone had a rough childhood. It's ok Col...it's not your fault man, it's not your fault. As for answering Steve's question....I would have thought it better to let the owner of the dyno run it as he would know more about it ie. set up, dial in and so forth. I'm sure they wouldn't mind another mechanic standing by to help tune or help set up or monitor. Ultimately there has to be someone there from the business anyway so it's not like they'll hand you the keys to the place and say 'make sure you lock it all up when you're done'. But if you do find someone who'll help you out, let me know coz I need a dyno to sort out this 5hitbox of mine too.

Kerosene should remove it but use it spareingly as it will leave an oily residue that you will have to polish out(may not leave the residue though) Try mixing a few capfuls into some soapy water. Paintball paint is water based, well the ones we use are. Oh, and don't worry. Kero won't harm your paint. It is oil based. Just try not to rub too hard as it is a very mild abrasive.