The Dan

pour a couple of capfulls of brake fluid over the base. Let it soak for about 5 minutes and try again. Watch your knuckles coz she'll crack straight away, I can almost gaurantee it. BTW, the On car machiner would set you back several hundred dollars and it is a type of lathe, it's kinda portable and bolts to the wheel studs as a mounting point.

Alternator charging problem maybe? you would have to check the charge rate. But if it's flickering it might just be a dodgy connection. Check to make sure everything is plugged in correctly to the back of the alt.

You have to do a flow test by seeing how many litres per hour the pump is pumping. Disconnect the fuel line into the rail, and then somehow apply 12v directly to the pump wires. I don't wanna tell you to get a 12v battery and use bare wires in your boot coz knowing my luck you'd blow yourself up and I'd get sued. So I'm not telling you to do that. But however you want to do it, you have to apply a direct 12v to the pump. It won't get an accurate reading from just cranking as after the initial prime the pumps speed slows to half as current is drawn to the starter so the pump doesn't get a full twelve volts. You have to catch the fuel into a 2 litre milk container or something of that sort. Also I recommend the use of an approved fuel container but once again it's entirely up to you. Posts your results here and I'll tell you what they mean. You basically have to work out how many litres per minute or litres per hour. So this means you have to time it. Two people are generally needed for this. A fuel pressure test can really only be done with a fuel pressure guage. You won't need to test pressure while driving if the flow test comes up ok. Really all you need to achieve both tests is a fuel pressure guage and a 2L milk bottle.

If it's not meant to have a gasket there, don't use one. They are supposed to be sealant only. use 3 bond. Nothing even comes close. Wait a day until it is set then fill the diff back up again. You may have already done this but to tell the truth, there aren't really any other places that it can leak from. Unless there is a hairline crack in the housing somewhere that you can't see.

And would you say the same about brake boosters grandpa. Get with the times old man. Or are these new fangled inventions just too much for ya.

Yeah, mine is a series 1

Does it actually appear to be coming through the metal? If you have cleaned it down and inspected it a number of times you should be able to see the EXACT location of the leak. Maybe not. I know how hard they are to find sometimes.

That may be the case. It might not be the head but how pissed would you be if you spent all that money doing all this other 5hit and then find out it was coz a fake mechanic couldn't do a simple test. How does he know it's not. Has he got Xray vision or something. A dye test will pick up the smallest leak that won't even cause your car to overheat. Well anyway, I'm done with the advise. If you choose to ignore it, that's your choice. Like I said before, it may not be the head. I hope it isn't. I hope it's something simple to fix because I have gone through all of it hundreds of times. I just believe that it is best to cover all bases so that you rule out all possibilities. To say that it is not a particular problem without performing the tests to prove it is just foolish. I really hope they do the right thing by you.

I must also mention that this will only effect the 4WD vehicles and it took 3 of us 5 weeks to find out what the problem was. So it is kinda privilaged information until now. Some WRX rally cars have the same issue. That's how we stumbled upon it. We found that an oil change made it slightly better for a while but it kept coming back and getting worse and worse. You could definately see it in the tacho and feel it in the car. It wasn't anything like a missfire coz the engine note didn't change that much. With a missfire you can hear the engine skip a beat. Hope you sort it out.

Cmon people. Think outside the box for a second....well think about the box actually. If it is while cruising along it kinda feels like your bunnyhopping on a really small scale. It get's worse. The first thing you need to try is change the transmission oil. It should get better. If it does not get better, you have to replace the 4WD pump which SHOULD be located above the rear diff. What a prick to get to. This, ofcourse, is after you have had the 4WD pump tested. Anyhow, if I was a gambling man, I would bet both arms, a leg and my left nut that is your problem. I am very attached to my left nut, however, so I won't be putting it on the table if you know what I mean. Do it!

My only suggestion is to clean it down and re-inspect. Have you checked the level of oil. Sometimes overfilling can cause leaks. What type of fluid is it that is leaking? how much? and how quickly?

Dunno, mine has the blue background though. A few people have mentioned that it was different but I wasn't sure and have never researched it. Would be nice to know though. I might look into it.

Just to clear something up. Lifters don't tap. The rockers do. And as for not doing it unless cold. That is incorrect, if you have a sticky lifter it will cause a tapping noise all the time. Sometimes they unstick once the oil has warmed up. Thicker oil is not really the best option either. A thinner oil will get rid of a noisy lifter more often than not. It is the gunk built up in the lifter that prevents it from filling with oil properly. The thinner oil allows better flow through the smaller spaces thus allowing the lifter to 'pump' up. As for products. This is your best option to free up a sticky lifter as it doesn't just brake off chunks of gunk and leave it floating around the engine in it's full size (speaking of which, lifter veins are virtually smaller than any other oil passage in the whole engine to to get stuck in anything other than another lifter would be highly unlikely) The product will break down the sludge or gunk into much smaller pieces and then they travel to the sump and eventually go through the oil filter which picks them up. My Suggestion: Run Wynns engine flush for 10 km Drain ALL old oil. Try to use a clear container so you can examine the old oil. You could even go so far as to strain it through paper towel to locate any impurities so that you can identify them. Change Oil filter Refill oil with Synthetic grade oil. Somthing like a 10 or a 15 weight. If the noise is still there, you may have to try manually cleaning them. If that doesn't fix it then you'll have to buy new lifters. Assuming that is the problem in the first place. I always recommend getting a professional opinion before replacing anything. Especially when those lifter cost $700-$800 for a set.

Point is this. If you don't like ABS, that's fine. Don't buy a car that has it. But don't tell someone else to do something when you don't know enough about it yourself and, in turn, causing them to be without something they have grown used to over the period they have owned the car. Go ahead and pull your own fuse out. Don't tell other people to when it could result in someone's loss of life. And if you do advise it, make sure you have the knowledge and experience to tell them what happens when you do.

Until you have done the pressure and dye test I would not waste my money doing any crap with flushes. I told you this earlier. Why keep forking out money unless you know the head is sound.

And in doing so you disable the ABS. Forget the brakes, they are just a waste of stopping power.

The 4WD is directly integrated with your ABS sensors. Are you having any problems with your ABS? The torque split control should be active when you power down. The more slip it gets in the rear, the more torque is applied to the fronts. You could take it on a dyno and have them diagnose it for you. You would also be able to get an indication of it's power. Sometimes, well I know I did, you get used to the power and it doesn't seem to go as quick. I'm not sure if your is the same but the dyno would explain it.

fair enough.

I would find it hard to get an on-car machiner on there without damaging the hard line into the caliper by bending it outta the way. Unless you disconnect it, but then you gotta bleed the system after that.

TURN OFF THE ENGINE. Then get it towed to a mechanic.

My malpassi failed and I had to send it back to Melbourne. I still use it as it has been the best reg outta all the ones I have used. I have one on the rotor also which has never failed in 5 years.

It is possible that it has been but you could never be sure. That is a TOMEI hicas locking kit. It locks the Hicas in place. Usually good for better drifting, I wouldn't disconnect the Hicas for circuit though. Sounds like it's had quite a bit of work done.

Did you have some kind of problem with them? And was that a NO to the pressure and dye test?

Not sure about the part number but is the new steering wheel AIR BAG itself? I would assume you would need to get another boss kit for it unless the new steering wheel has it as part of the wheel. You will be able to tell by the size of it. If the wheel is relatively the same size as the original and has the spline to suit then you might find it has already got the boss attached. Dunno what it looks like so that's about all I can tell you.

Is it brown in the overflow bottle or in the actual radiator. Most people when they flush the system forget to clean the overflow out. As for the temp guage rising when you accel. I didn't know this before. Have you had the pressure and dye tests done yet?