The Dan

Do them at the same time. Bedding in procedure. Accel to 60km and medium to light brake down to 5-10km then accel again. Try not to come to a stop, if you do have to stop while bedding in, apply the handbrake and take your foot off the brake pedal. This will help to prevent too much heat getting into the pad or disc in one spot on it's first run. Do this approx 6-8 times. Avoid heavy braking for the first 100km or so. Recheck the discs after 1000 kms to ensure no excessive grooving has occured.

My brother and I did a test between a normal intercooler and a painted one. The painted cooler had 25 degrees hotter intake temp than the non painted. every coat added after that gained approx 2 degrees extra. We ended up with almost 70 degree intake temps and massive pinging. The car lost around 50 HP because of it. We completely stripped the paint off to bare alloy again and intake temps stayed at 38 degrees. All tests were done on the same car with the same cooler and same level of boost and timing at the same time of day over a 3 day period. It doesn't matter what colour it is either. What Tigger said is correct, it doesn't allow for proper disipation of heat. Intercoolers don't work the same way that radiators do. Gee I shouldn't have said that. Now I'm going to have to explain it to everyone. Not gonna happen...read up on them if you want to know why.

It's entirely up to you really. The pads can be changed without removing the disc. It depends on whether you prefer time or money. You can pay someone else to fit them while the wheels are off or you can go home and do it yourself later. As long as you have all the right tools to do it. Personally I do everything myself. I don't really know the extent of your mechanical knowledge, but when it comes to brakes....I would rather be safe than sorry if you know what I mean.

Granted that it measures heat only, which is common knowledge, it IS an oxygen sensor.

heavy duty upgraded clutch will cost you around $700 fitted. Normally $600 but the gearbox in those is harder to remove than the GTST. Some people may do it cheaper. Make sure you replace rear main seal, spiggot bush and carrier bearing when you do the clutch also. Also make sure you ask the people doing it if those items are included in the price - they should be. If not, you are getting ripped off. You can get a whole range of other clutches so really the prices go up from there. All I can say is do your research and specify what you want outta your ride and it's driveability. Once the clutch is replaced it will be too late if it's too hard or grabs too much or not practical on the street. You'll basically need a clutch to match your mods and HP. Your car will be off the road for a whole day and possibly two if they are really busy or run into any unforseen problems.

wow, a real date? :headspin:

ok further research tells me that there is no apparent reason for it costing so much other than the 3 hours to do the job, all new fittings, all new o rings, new dryer and the gas fill. Gas fill by itself is around $120 retail so I guess the rest just adds onto that. They have told me that is a general price for all common cars. It's not because it's a skyline.

more to the point....if there is air getting to the injectors I would say there is a fuel leak. Try all the importers and if you have no luck. Give Zoom motorsports a call. They are in Wynnum, Brisbane. Your location doesn't really give a fair idea where you are exactly so it is hard to advise someone for you.

ok, it should be located right next to your turbo dump pipe. Where the A/C lines come out it should have a blue cap. Unscrew the cap and look at the fitting. See above for stats. As for price. Dunno why it is so expensive. I have had a few conversions done for me for customers and cars like Hilux's and camry's and stuff like that are only around the $90 trade and $120 retail. I'm not sure what is different as I'm not an aircon specialist but me next post will explain.

I was told that the centres are interchangeable as long as both are viscous LSD and they don't have any hydraulic connections on the back plate. I was also told that they should be exactly the same. The 300's have better traction because they are heavier in the arse. Dunno how true it is though.

good to hear you have solved the problem. Good luck with it staying fixed.

What's next...what conditioner you use in your hair? what colour handbag should you match with your marble paintjob? Easy solution.......grab a 19 year old Californian virgin, soap her up and slide her over your car. By the time she reaches the other end you'll have forgotten about the three specs of dust on your car. That's the man's wash .:wassup:

Made sense to me, thanks for the info Cubes:cheers:

So did it end up being the thermostat in the end?

Looks like you have covered the common stuff. They are a cam angle sensor also, not a crank angle sensor. Not that anyone gives a crap, but sometimes helps when ordering parts. What boost level VS timing are you running? What mods do you have?

Can see the service fittings for the A/C?. If so (you should be able to - these are the fittings with the valve inside - usually have a coloured cap over them (green or blue or red or something)) If the thread is on the inside it's R134a If the thread is on the outside it's R12 The conversion will generally cost around $300 including dryer and seals but this may differ from place to place. $250 is a good price but make sure they are a reputable business as they may not replace any o rings. This is necessary as the R134a is a higher pressure and the R12 seals will not be able to handle it very well. Thus you will get leaks. hope this helps

Take it to a brake shop. You probably won't get it done any cheaper if you take them off yourself. Wheel comes off, two caliper bolts, disc slides off. Should cost you around $50 for BOTH fronts. Same for rears.

Nothing, you'll only need to replace them if the originals are shagged. Most people just throw them away when they are stuffed thinking that they are not important. Even the boot that covers the shaft.. if that is torn, replace it. It prevents dirt from damaging the seal on the shaft. Generally if they are ok though you won't need to worry about it. It's one of those things that if it is not looking healthy, replace it coz otherwise you'll end up having to rip all the shocks out again to install a simple boot or bumpstop.

When you are only lowering by an inch it won't matter. You will only have to get short travel shocks if you put super lows in and they are 50mm drop. You may suffer some driveability problems if the shocks are very old but if you are upgrading soon then it won't matter. When you change the springs....just make sure you put new bump stops in (strut mates - available at any supercheap or repco) this will help to stop it from bottoming out if by any chance you suddenly get airborn for no reason. 18's will give you a stiffer ride by themselves which I'm sure you will have already noticed. The springs by themselves will increase your cornering ability and overall ride comfort. They will be roughly 30% heavier duty springs so even though they are lower, they still maintain the same, if not better, spring rate. However, laws of physics say that a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. This means that if you stiffen the suspension, you are more likely to suffer tower flex or stress on the rear bushes. I would recommend fitting strut braces with the springs also.

Email sent

I don't need help. Well, not with engines anyway. It's already in. Had a pr1ck of a time with the gearbox bolts. Only got two in plus the starter. I'll get it up on a hoist in the morning and throw the others on.

Yeah, that is the return. Have you replaced the little 3 inch hose under the manifold? Coz if you haven't, I would probably consider it. It will go next. A real pain to get to though. You'll need a lot of patience.

Mine sat for 6 months and still was ok. Just make sure the tank is completely sealed (by that I mean around the filler). If it is ok then you should be fine. The fuel won't have a problem burning. It may just have a problem keeping up if you wanna run bathurst. Just take it easy until you fill up next. If you are just worried about the initial start, it should be ok.

And what the hell has that got to do with the problem he is trying to solve.

Tyres, depending on sizes - ranging from approx $100 - $300 each tyre Water pump - do timing belt also - $70 (timing belt) $120 (water pump) + 2.5 hours labour. Hose replacement - 1 hour labour + approx $50 (rough estimate) 100k service - timing belt already taken care of - around $250. Should be fuel/air/oil filters + gearbox oil and engine oil I think. Should be able to get away with it for around $1200 I reckon. But this is only an estimate.