The Dan

Incorrect, there are actually two. One is located on the turbo dump pipe and the other is located behind the catalytic converter. And yes, that is an o2 sensor.

That is the blowby control valve. Do you have an engine manual? If not, PM me and I'll get one to you. It helps in diagnosis.

Yeah, well I got all three manuals in English, and I been copying the living 5hit outta them and sending to everyone. So what exactly are you gonna do about it?

Try the Yokohama ES100's they are unbelievable in the wet and dry. With your tyre wear, you should get more than that outta them. That's crap. I have found that if you grandma your skyline, your tyres wear shit. If you Skaife your skyline then you get awesome wear. Try rotating them more often and get your Wheel alignment checked more often. Make sure they use a four head laser aligner not some crappy string line thing. Nathan Barnett at Bob Jane coorparoo will look after you if you say "Daniel from Midas said you'd look after me".....That pretty much goes for anyone really. lol.

failing that, if you give me your VIN I can tell you your paint code.

Not that any of you really care but I should have my 32 back on the road on Monday or Sunday arvo. I finished measuring all the bottom end tonight and put it all together. Just gotta slap the sump and oil pump on and throw the biatch into her. Sounds good eh? yeah, just waiting for the next thing to go wrong. Although, I have replaced everything now so maybe it'll be alright. Anyway, just a note I'll be running it in all next week so don't think I'm a pu55y for not haven a go.

hahahaha

What do you mean tools to centre it. Do you mean the ignition key? Coz when you switch the car off it automatically centres. Wheel alignments are set normally after that. It's only active steer rear ends that need to be locked in place. ie. Hondas

I reckon for five bucks to cut you another key it is worth the risk. try it and see

he just said it ISN'T getting into first when stopped.. My suggestion before you pull out the box. Adjust the clutch a bit. If this doesn't help out, you'll have to remove the box and inspect the spiggot bush. If that's ok then bank on a synchro. Gbox shop will be able to tell you once you have it out anyway.

Why is that starnge. Coolant gets hot. Engine heats up causing oil to get hot. Simple. That radiator cap could have something to do with it. Have you tried a genuine one. Or have you tested the Nismo one? Sorry, I haven't read the complete thread. Have you done a pressure test? The thermostat should be ok...if not, the new one will be. Fans seem to be coming on ok. Reckon it would be difficult to find without some tests.

yeah, I call them all spiggot bearings. You get the general idea. But I think you are missing the whole point of this guys problem. Maybe I'm wrong but I don't think his problem is that he can't select first at 80km's/hour. His problem is while not moving at all it crunches. Not a very acurate way of testing a clutch either. Reverse, as you stated, does not have helical(sp?) cut gears so more often than not you will get some kind of a noise while shifting. Most of the time no probs but if you guage a clutches operation by a crunch into reverse then I think I had better go replace my 1 week old clutch. Usually if it is an oil problem, it will crunch in more than just first.

Possibly spiggot bearing but other than that I would have to say synchros

ok you can delete thread now if you like Adrian

What the hell is with the nerdy avatar pics for everyone. I spend most of my time laughing at the pictures rather than reading the posts. BTW. I actually imagined you looked like that Adrian. lol

What does that say in the mirror photo.

As for testing the difference, I'm sure you'd find a few threads that cover this. Anyway, I'll answer your question. The pod filter is probably going to be better for flow and total surface area. The panel filter is better as it restricts heat from engine bay entering. What you need to do is make a shielded area for your pod filter that seals (for the most part anyway) when the bonnet closes thus creating a sanction where hot air cannot enter. This gives you the best of both worlds. People usually use aluminium as it is easily cut and shaped. Then use sticky heat shield tape to keep the heat out. I actually relocated my filter down to where the stock intercooler goes. Seeing as though mine is no longer there. The only problems I have is filter changes are much more often. and when you drive through a puddle during rain it sometimes makes the car stall coz you suck up water. I made a quick release for it so I could return it to its natural position during rain and move it back again for more power. Kinda a pain in the arse but that's what I get for owning a sh1tbox

I'm not sure you understand the lack of room to swing a hammer in one of these cars.....maybe an elves hammer or something of equivalent size. But then you'd have to use an elves screw driver. Not really available at all leading retailers but I'm sure an SAU member could sell you one. oh yeah, Cubes...I believe that would have been a Z445. very small. But at any rate...these filters should not be done up that tight to begin with. One other thing. R33vit. Not a very good idea to hit the filter at the rim as you risk scoring the mating surface for the filter. If you damage it you risk tearing the seal on the next filter fitted.

There is a load sensor which knows when the window is fully up. If it thinks the window still has a bit to go it will keep going. The clicking sound is your window motor jumping teeth (that's BAD). Take it to a mechanic and get it fixed. You could also try another trick. Spend ages pulling the trim of the door, ages trying to get at the motor and try to figure out what it all means then try to fix it only to find you aren't as good at auto electrics as you thought you might be and stuff it more. This usually ends up costing more money and time. Less hassle with a professional (most of the time)

Some more details always helps. Does it crunch while completely stopped? Does it do it just coming out of reverse? Does it do it while rolling? If you pump the clutch a couple of times does it crunch then? How often does it do it...all the time, sometimes? Is it HARD to shift or does it just crunch? How long has it been happening. Does it do it from cold? Does it do it when hot? How loud? What is the condition of the oil? Have you even checked that? Why not? How old is the shift kit? Did it only happen just after the kit was fitted?

I think it would be wiser to do up the centre you already have. A diff shop can make them as tight as you want.

Check the main diff support frame bushes. tell tale signs are they leak oil when stuffed. also check for irregular tyre wear. also Hicas as mentioned above.

Check TPS. I think this also effects your gear changes. I'm not too sure if that car runs a wire to the auto from the TPS though. Mitsubishi's do. Other than that it might be a job for an auto leccy.

all of you sound like you are having the same problem. The throttle body should not contain any carbon build up. It should be clean at all times or whenever possible. Any crap stuck in there will cause air to be able to pass and will effect the idle. However, when you clean your T/body, it is very important not to just spray throttle body clean or carby clean straight into the throttle body. Doing this will stuff the TPS. You need to spray onto a rag and use the rag to clean the butterflies. On the high idle side of things. The TPS should not have to be adjusted! Do not move it unless you have the correct testing equipment to set it properly. To just turn it in the hope of good results is wrong. If you have the test specs from the manual then use them to check voltage and such. This will tell you if the TPS is stuck on wide open throttle, which it probably is. No matter what you do to the AAC valve, it won't bring it to correct idle. All of the above posts are good for maintenance anyway so do them also. If the TPS tests bad, throw it away and get another. Simple. Have you tried cleaning your AFM? Sometimes this can also effect your idle. If you don't have the testing specs, PM me and I'll give em to ya. Hope this helps. The other thing is..... About the boost guage reading. Your guage should read between roughly 15hg-20hg Which is -0.5 - -0.7bar Any lower than 15hg and you have a vacuum leak somewhere. Or your manifold is not getting enough. I would explain but it is irrelevant.

You need what is called a mightyvac. You can apply vacuum or pressure to the actuator and test what pressure it takes to activate the arm.