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Everything posted by The Dan
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fark, how the hell did you do that. pistons before ring lands. wow, that must have been some kinda detonation.
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yeah, not business names. Just that the person is in the trade. You could also have a list of trade people where if someone had a specific question, and the trady had selected to allow it (via option box or something), that person could just PM a question directly to the appropriate person. I know I would be involved. Always great to help people out.
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Ok, I've Had Enough Of This Discussion Crap. End Of Story. It Is Ghey To Put A Gtr Badge On Your Gtst.... Further More...stop Arguing That It's Not Coz It Is. Bring On The Pics.
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What about people who can't spell Greddy. That really sh1ts me. I'm gonna start a thread about people who are illiterate. jks.
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0-100 times R33 vs Ford typhoon and V8s etc
The Dan replied to benl1981's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
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Wouldn't it be nice if you were posting in this area and were having problems with your car. 10 or 20 people reply to your problem. Some are conflicting, some make sense and some don't. Who do you know to believe? Well the answer is...you don't. What if you could make it so that anyone who is in the mechanical, autoelectrical, automotive body repairs industry or any other relevant industry had a special type of signature or something so that the person with the problem might be able to sort out the crap thinkers from the general knowers. Of course, it would not mean that people who weren't in the guild didn't know what they are talking about, but at least when someone who is in the related industry replies, there would be a little more peace of mind. What do you think? P.S. Would also prevent arguments between two mechanics as they would know that the other person might know what they are talking about. (Not a crack at you either Cubes)
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Which brings me to my next post in the main thread area.
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I would have to agree with everything you have said. The 20's all blew from corrosion possibly caused by lack of cooling system servicing. At which point the ethylene glycol turns into an acid and eats away at the head (weakest metal). The 25's were a blown heater hose and a stuck thermostat. I am of a firm belief that basic tests come for free. Full diagnosis is charged but only with the authority of the owner of the vehicle. No repairs are done without authority from the owner. I know that hardly any mechanics are like this anymore but these days I think it is more necessary to help people wherever you can. So many people don't know anything about cars or how they work and many mechanics take advantage of this. A few minutes here and there for everyone and everyone will give you a few minutes or more in return. I must explain that I had just read the most rediculous thread before I came to this one and was most pi55ed about people writing dangerous advice. It was regarding the removal of the balancer nut. I'm sure you have probably already read it. I should maybe not go off next time. Now that I know you are not an imbecile. :argue: It has been nice almost arguing.
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hehe yeah. I only remembered how hard it was yesterday coz I had to remove one from a second block I have to get the crank out. I should have mentioned it earlier, I've done enough of them by now.
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Maybe I shouldn't have been so rude. Sorry. This is still a dodgy idea. You still risk blocking the system and overheating the engine. The fact is that type of engine is very unlikely to have the crap built up in it like you said and why go to all that trouble and risk. This guy has come here with a problem which we are trying to give solutions. In this situation it is better to identify the complaint, provide any testing procedures if possible, and try to diagnose the complaint with the analysis of the results. The above statement is untrue. RB engines have the same headgasket as most other nissans of the same breed. Not to mention that I know of 4 people who have blown their gaskets. All rb20's and 25's. Also 2 sr20DET's and a ca18DET. To rule out a problem without performing tests is stupidity. You don't just say..."hey, It won't be a headgasket". You have to always keep that possibility in the equation. I never said that he DID have a blown head gasket. I said that there was a good chance and to perform those test procedures. Once those tests are done, which shouldn't take any longer than 5 minutes, you would be able to diagnose the problem. I apologise once again, maybe the stocking works. I can only see problems as a result and still recommend not using them. If you have a blocked radiator, the chances are you won't stop all flow. With the stocking you can block all flow. Maybe you check it every day, that's fine...a lot of stuffing around when the flush should have gotten all that stuff out anyway. The HQ you are talking about would have had a problem with casting sand from the block and head. Ford Falcons have the same issue but worse. If you went and put a sock in one of those you would block it within one day. You can get handfuls of casting sand outta those. I think it best to see the results of the tests before you make assumptionsas to what is possible in a world of Murphey's Law.
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Find out if the RB20 DET lifters are the same. I got a full spare set in perfect nick. You are welcome to make me an offer. I don't need them. I kinda doubt they would be the same but you never know I guess.
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^ what he said
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The other fact is that the Skyline GTR is a dieing breed. They are trying to do away with the skyline prefix and just making it an Infinity GTR. So I say again.... LONG LIVE THE SPIRIT OF THE GTR!!!!!
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The answer to that one is YES! It would be a SHAMER to call it Godzilla though. The facts are. 1. A GTR is a GTR. You can never change that. 2. A GTST may go as quick with some mods but no matter what you do is still a GTST. If you have a quick GTST, don't be ashamed, you have a beautiful vehicle. Be happy with what you have. If you have a slow GTR, don't be ashamed, you have a beautiful vehicle. Be happy with what you have. Don't pretend to own what you want. The SPIRIT of the GTR is in the car. You could take a normal GTR and change all the guards, change the engine, mags, bodykit, lights and interior and it is still a GTR coz it still has the spirit of a GTR. Can anyone wear your clothes, hat, shoes and claim to be you. NO! I would rather have a GTR killing GTST and say that it is a GTST then have a GTR badge and a hell of a lot higher expectation from spectators and racers. When you slap that badge on, you raise the bar for your car and it suddenly goes from an awesome GTST to a moderate FAKE GTR that everyone and his dog knows is a fake. LONG LIVE THE SPIRIT OF THE GTR!!!!
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Capalaba here. kinda near the bayside like Oz ubt I gotta drive for ten minutes.
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If you could get your hands on the manuals somehow, then you would be able to read up on the diagnostics for hicas in there. Hmmm, I wonder.:wassup:
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^ Great advice leb ^ This method works great when you don't have any other tools. Hint on the hint is to spray the filter with some carby clean first and let it evaporate so that you remove any oily residue. Then you get supamegaextremo grip with the washing up glove.
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Well to start with, don't worry about the gas leaking out coz you prolly can't stop it. Once it leaks enough, the pressure will be too low to maintain a cool temp when the air con is on. This means that you are going to need a full re-gas once it's fized. Take it to a radiator shop. I would suggest Tingalpa Radiators. Most of the Red Devil people can fix it also. Once fixed they can re-gas it and you'll be one your way. Shouldn't cost you any more than say....$100 for the repair and $120 for the re-gas. That's just a guess as I usually pay quite a bit less for trade discount.
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YOU HAVE HOLES IN YOUR PISTONS? Who told you that and how did they come to that conclusion?
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The other thing is, when and where is your mate doing these seals. I wanna come and watch to see how he'll get the lower timing belt pulley off to get at the seal. With that particular seal, make sure you have all the equipment to remove it properly before starting coz if you don't, chances are you'll wreck something. Unless you know for sure that it will come off easily. I only say this coz usually it takes an oxy, a couple of big levers, a big hammer, a grinder, a claw puller, a brand new pulley in the end and every swear word you and your mate knows to get it. Let's just say that the neigbours will learn a few new ones. lol. Good luck.
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Most mechanics will do a pressure and dye test for nothing. If they won't then PM me and I will bring the equipment home to do it.....providing you are in Brissy. If these test come up good THEN you start looking at bleeding the system. There is no point spending 2 hours trying to sort out a problem that can be diagnosed in 5 minutes.
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I would not recommend this at all. Let me get this straight....you are suggesting that he shoves a stocking into his cooling system. All the crap gets caught in it, assuming that the stocking doesn't get forced into the radiator first, and once it has collected all the crap it will then effectively work as a giant plug stopping all flow and any ability to cool the engine. Cmon....AREN'T THERE ANY MODERATORS...HOW CAN YOU LET ADVISE LIKE THIS REMAIN HERE. Constructive criticism.....before giving advice on these forums to potentially ignorant people, make sure you know a lot and think about the consequences. This poor bloke would probably take your advice and end up @#$ing something because of it.
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In relation to this.....probably the best way is to use a bar to lock the cams in place and tighten it as much as you can....you'll have to be very careful as the cams are ont very strong. The crank turns in a direction which should tighten the bolt instead of undo so as long as you get it firm and use a lot of lock tight and let it cure. Never use the lever on the teeth of the cam though. Only get it so the nut is firm so you can then take it to a REAL mechanic and ask if they can rattle it tighter if possible. They will have to remove the radiator but hey, then you got an excuse to get a flush done while you're there. All of the above could be avoided if you had $250. Coz that's how much we would charge to do a timing belt for you. Would be done in 2.5 hours and you have a guarantee with it. Good luck with it all.
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^ Best advice all day I reckon ^