The Dan

It all depends on if some are full of oil still. Hydraulic lifters can be moved up and down unless they are packed with oil or blocked. Givem a good cleanout and test them again. Personally I would whack them all back in the engine. If they aren't noisy then leave em alone. If they are then replace the offenders.

You wouldn't get sludge if it blew between a water jacket and the cylinder bore. And the bubbling into the overflow would be because the water is boiling over or compression is getting into the cooling system. I still advise to get a pressure and dye test done, you will know the extent of any damage - if any at all before you go ahead and spend money on power flushes.

I offered, can't do any more than that.

How about a sticker that says...."If you can read this, you'll know I'm a fake GTR" They sell the GTR badges at Autobarn. along with the crappy shopping list stickers. My mates got a 383 stroker in a VH commodore with stickers down the door that say Milk, bread, cereal, toilet paper. But I spose when you got 600 hp you can poke a little fun sometimes.

Is it possible that when you fill up it stirs up crap sitting in the bottom of your tank and gets sucked through the filter. Check your fuel filter and remove the pump and inspect the bottom of the tank. Won't cost you anything.

"and anyway, if you've got a breaker bar you'll be able to do it ten times easier with the starter motor."

Correct, which is why I said..... screw the bearings in the alternator or you'll bugger the seal in the water pump. Actually, the water pump is worse than the alternator.

When you stop the car does it sound like it's bubbling. Look in the plastic overflow bottle and see if it is gurgling. If it does it for more than a couple of seconds then chances are you head could be blown. Easiest way to check it is take it to a mechanic and get them to do a pressure and dye test. You could also pull out the plugs and see if any look kinda rusty or really clean. Steam from the blown gasket will clean the end of the offending cylinder's plug.

Drive the car up to brissy and I'll get it off for ya. Guaranteed. and I'll do it free of charge. Unless you got no oil in it. The screwdriver works fine....just make sure you hammer it right through the other side so it has good support. The metal will peel but eventually you hit a hard spot and she'll bite in. Failing that, gimme $15 dollars and I'll drive down there and get it off for you.

Ok, lets start with a few tihngs... 1. if you do the rope idea you'll screw the bearings in the alternator or you'll bugger the seal in the water pump. and anyway, if you've got a breaker bar you'll be able to do it ten times easier with the starter motor. 2. don't bother with the screw driver in the flywheel/flexplate coz that'll just sh1t you tryin to get it back in, and out for that matter. 3. unless you have a breaker bar you'll never get it off with someone standing on the brakes with handbrake and in gear in which case you can do it ten times easier with the starter motor. 4. NEVER turn the crank with the car in gear and handbrake on coz you'll pop your gearbox and then car a no go. Ultimately, unless you got a rattle gun and a compressor or a breaker bar you aint gonna get it off unless you are really lucky. Best idea is with the breaker bar and a pipe over the end put the 27mm socket over the bolt and put the pipe over the breaker bar and hold it hard up against the left chassis rail. Get someone to crank the starter motor (not full cranks as if you were going to start it but just enough to crack the bolt). Make sure you hold the socket onto the nut and don't let go. Don't worry, as long as you hold it, it shouldn't bite you. Or basically the way wrxhoon described it. (Sorry to repeat your advice) But it is the best way.

Just get genuine ones. You'll thank me later. If you go aftermarket you compromise quality with THIS particular product. Trust me I've been there. Three times now. It's only a few dollars more and you can just give Nissan you VIN and tell them what you want.

Take it to an auto elec. Save yourself the grief

Yeah, the pump should stay on all the time. Be carefull of this as it may damage the pump or wear it out I should say. Dunno about the wire colour though sorry.

Some crap in the oil may have gotten stuck in the pressure relief valve in the oil pump. Then when you shut it down it may have dislodged. Another word of advice...when the light comes on - stop the car. if you keep driving you'll kill the bearings.

Will most probably be the AFM. Try to get another one to plug in temporarily. ie Borrow from a friend or try to talk an importer into lending you one for ten minutes and you'll buy one if that's the prob. They usually do this for ya. While you're doing that, check your spark plugs. What condition are they in? Showing signs of running lean or rich? if not then AFM if lean then possibly fuel pump or injector, if rich then possibly plugs or coil packs. Hope this helps.

An oscilliscope is like a multimeter but it measures in waveform so you can see injector pulse, voltage rise and fall and most other things which will determine where the problem is located. All you gotta do is set it up on different sensors or devices and drive while someone watches the scope. When your engine cuts out you'll see what device stopped working first or which sensor gave a faulty waveform or voltage. To buy they are a few hundred dollars (for a good one anyway) We have a ScanPro at work worth $15,000 and it can do almost everything for diagnosis of these problems. The only thig you need is patience. It would be hard to get your hands on a decent one but you can still achieve the same sort of results with a multimeter. You just have to make up some extra long cables for it and test every sensor one by one. The main ones you'll be checking will be ECU power and earth, Ignitor power, earth and signal, AFM voltage and fuel pump voltage. With the AFM you can remove it, make up some wires to give 12v to pins 5 and 3 and test the voltage on pin 2 while blowing through the AFM with a hair dryer. This should give you a fair idea on the accuracy of the AFM.

I had this prob and it sh1t me to tears for ages. Look on the back of the light assembly. There is another screw there. It has been about a year and a half now so I might be wrong. It isn't that far away from the high beam adjstment and adjusts horizontally instead of vertically like the Hbeam does. Don't quote me on the horizontal thing though I can't remember now. And I think you have to poke your screw driver through the little rubber shroud covering behind the light to get to it. If you remove the light it sticks out like dogs balls but I think it was hidden slightly by the front bonnet support. Sorry for being vague but I'm tired and can't be bother walking 50 meters down to my car to check it.

Primo and Booster....it sounds like you both have a problem with your fuel pump. This does not always mean the pump itself is at fault either. The earth wire goes through an earth switch to lower pump noise at idle. Try checking all earth points...the main ones anyway. Battery and so forth. Check earth to fuel pump and check pump relay also. You all need to hook up an oscilliscope to your car while driving with it connected to your ignition, AFM and fuel pump. When it happens you'll know where to start looking.

Sometimes the compound of your pads can do this but if it is only a recent noise that happened only once then chances are that Duncan is right and it was a rock. If you take the wheel off and inspect the rotor you should see the scuff mark where the rock ran or is still running. Usually once you reverse it throws the rock out and you never hear it again. Or once the rock breaks or wears down it will disappear. This happens in a matter of seconds.

oil filter is z145a forgot the other two Just ring up REPCO, they have the part numbers or do you want genuine? Don't be lazy.

it will be a 5/8 deep socket or a small head spark plug socket (same thing) those things you mentioned are all possibilities so good luck. I hope your engine is ok. They will be platinum plugs so check the tips of the plug to make sure they haven't worn down. They should be fairly pointy on the end. Assuming they are platinum still in there.

Oil Pan

Crankcase torque specs. RB engines are all the same.

yeah, I'll find out for you.

If you have lost oil pressure it will most likely be caused by your main bearings failing. The vibrations will be the crank whipping which in turn will cause the crank to crack. The Block should be fine but now is the time you need to ask yourself what you want outta your car. Do you want to keep it? Do you want to do it up? How far do you want to go with doing it up? if you have lost oil pressure and driven for a while you could have damaged the bearings in the turbo also. Your cheapest option is a different standard engine and just drop it in. A rebuild done properly will cost you three times as much. But that's when it comes down to yuor answers to the previous questions. If you wanna keep the car for a while you would be best to rebuild. If you are gonna sell it, just drop in the other engine. You won't know the extent of the damage without completely pulling down the engine and that will cost money if you don't know how to do it yourself. How much money do you wanna spend. If it's just a second hand engine...prolly about 2 grand all up. Complete rebuild including turbo starts from around the 4 grand mark but in the end it will all come down to how much damage has been done.