The Dan

Is it a rapid click or just a few spaced apart. Plus is the noise only apparent when you are moving slowly or does it make when you are doing say 60 around a bend. Has your car been lowered? How does it handle, does it drive ok normally? (ie:do you think the noise effects the driveablility of the vehicle?) Check bearing plates Check spring saddle Check steering rack mounting bushes You should check balljoints but I would doubt these would be the problem, they would knock rather than click.

I'm pretty sure the only difference is the cam lobe size. I see what I can find out tomorrow. Has someone ported that for you?

Why would he need to jack the car up? I was trying to determine the location and severity of the noise under load. Maybe your advice should stay out of this.

That's the speed sensor you were talking about alright. Mine does the exact same tihng you just said so I don't think tihs is your problem. EXACTLY how hard is it to steer. Is it like XD falcon doin a u turn hard or is it ford laser hatch doin a u turn on 155's hard?

Pm Sent

ok the pumps are getting ordered tomorrow. I still need a contact number for Paragon. I will contact each of you when I have confirmed they are on their way

Pleased to meet you Darrin. Once my AFM is fixed you'll have to be able to accellerate pretty fast coz mine will go from 0-100 in 4.5. I love the weaving in and out. Especially when there's not much traffic around. Get's the heart pumping ready for a hard day's work.

also does your speedo work. Another person here on the forums was telling me that the Hicas links with the vehicle speed sensor and it won't work or will be dodgey if the speedo doesn't.

That's great. It does make sense too. I'll tell the other guy, maybe his is doing the same.

I'm pretty sure they do pulse when in diagnostic mode. if the power steering is functioning correctly then it shouldn't make a racket at full lock.

You just need the R33 manual. Someone on here has it but won't give it to me so I can host it.

can you do me a favour and let me know what the outcome is. I would definately like to know.

try the AFM if you can get another one to borrow for a while but in the meantime...have you tried cleaning it with some contact cleaner or throttle body cleaner. Sometime that's all it takes. The skyline AFM's have the smallest tolerances. Petroject refuse to fix them for this very reason.

no worries man. Glad I could help

sorry man I would have answered earlier but I had to go to bed yesterday sometime. I have one but I'm not sure if I wanna let it go. I keep ot as a spare in case mine stuffs up. Let me know if you absolutely can't get one from anywhere and I might be able to help you out.

Damn straight!

I will try to look into it. in the meantime, test to make sure you are getting power to the relay points. Even though the ralay may function, if there is no power to them they won't work either. same at the fuse and same at the motor. Basically just follow it back. You may have to unravel the main harness under the dash but the wire colours should remain the same so it shouldn't be too hard to find.

go to http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartli...=S14B&intake=NA and right down the bottom have a look at the tomei ones. This is what yours should look like....took a bit to find but there it is every other site I looked had no images available and this one I can't copy the pic so you'll have to go there yourself.

Don't take them out of the package...that does not look right at all.

What if he has just driven the car all day? The fan will be hard to turn then.

So did they end up fixing the problem for you?

Also another thing I forgot...while the engine is running, squeeze the Blow by control hose so it becomes blocked. You should hear the idle change. If it doesn't then you have a leak in your intake somewhere.

sorry I should have read your message a little better. It was late, I was tired.

Good on ya mate. It will only hurt the pump if you continuously do it. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing it once or twice. I have never seen a pump fail due to this test and it is necessary to determine its location. It also helps by putting the load on the pump as it will amplify any problem that is present. It also rules out any moving components whilst driving. And in case you didn't notice I am offering help to people here unlike you. I already told him to check the switching device for the indicator so instead of repeating my advice and then flaming bits you know nothing about. Think before you type.

Don't remove it. Then there will be nothing stopping your wheels from just turning by themselves. What is this link lower suspension. I have been working on suspension for 8 years and the only think with the word link in it is the link pins and they have nothing to do with the steering arms. On the other note...Did he say rack ends (steering arms) or tie rod ends (where they join to the hub)? Ties rod ends are relatively inexpensive. Rack ends can be repaired. They can be nolathane injected. I'm pretty sure they can do this to tie rod ends also but you'll have to check out who can do them in your area. As far as passing a roadworthy... You cuold remove the steering arms, put them in a vice and hammer the outer edge in the take up the play...vwala...you now have a rack end with no play that will probably never fail again. You can do the same with the tie rod ends but it's usually not advised. BTW...it's not exactly legal for a mechanic to do it but I don't think there is a prob with you doing it.