The Dan

probably has. So it won't rev past 2000 in neutral or in gear and it's hard to get there anyway. Have you checked timing and all the other basics? Do a flow and pressure test on the fuel pump also. This could be a reason for it not revving very well.

If you rev the engine to about 3000 while stationary does the steering become easier or stay the same? You won't be able to test the pump unless you can somehow check its pressure. Did it just suddenly go like this? if so...when and what were you doing at the time? going fast, slow round a corner when you noticed it? Does the steering make any kind of growling noises when you turn? Any other types of noises? or is it just really hard to turn? See if you can get a pump on there to check it. Plus, how is the fluid level and the belt?

That won't be for a set, that will be each one.

If the rack has no leaks coming from it and there is no play in the steering arms then more than likely, no. Not much goes wrong with them.

The sleeve which is called a rack boot does not seal the fluid. The rack seal stops fluid coming out of the housing. If there is any fluid inside that boot then the seal is broken. The boot only stops dirt from getting inside to where the seal is.

Another trick to fix a blockage is race the engine to about 3000 rpm and reef the steering from left to right about 10 times. This usually frees up any blockages. Other than that, if no leaks then pump no work.

I think I should also mention that I was driving past Carindale through Camp hill and I was in a Black R32.

This morning I was driving to work and out comes this Blue R33. Sweet ride man! I saw the SAU sticker on the side and just wanted to put a name to the plate(if you know what I mean). BTW, my AFM is completely rooted and I have no accelleration at the moment so don't think you had anything on me...lol.

the climate control has a self test mode. Use this to check it.

Midas at Woolloongabba

Check coolant temp sensor. Does it just stall while driving or when you come to a stop?

Also, go into the boot. On the right hand side is the reservoir for your 4WD pump fluid. If it is low it can cause the computer to switch to 2WD mode to save the pump.

what car is it? if it's a 32 then I can find it in the manual. There's obviously something stopping 12v from getting to the motor. so if you've checked the fuses and relays it would only be the control unit. I don't think there are any other relays for them. I don't know if you'd have a fan speed switch or where it would be located. It would help to know the car.

I don't think it will go on an R32. Thanks for the offer anyway.

You can easily get to the sensor from the engine bay. It will probably be a 22mm hex size spanner you'll need. Maybe 19mm. Unplug it, unscrew it. It's that simple. You can get another one from ACA, I'll get their number for you. They are at 26 Cross Street Brookvale NSW 2100 Sydney Australia. PH: (02) 9907 1861 Mobile: 0407 200 061. Don't worry about the location as they have reps going everywhere. Before you race off and change the 02 sensor though, check to make sure that ALL vacuum lines are hooked up and secure with no splits or cracks in them. Also buy a can of carby clean and clean out the Air flow meter. Do this while it's running. You will have to pick up the revs manually while doing this as it will try to konk out. Check the fuel filter ***important*** Use the remaining carby clean to spray around all the vacuum lines. If any gets in through a crack or split or hole then your idle will change and you'll have found it. I can't think of any other things at the moment but they are the basics. You could also change plugs and stuff but they are a bit fidly. Recommend them though.

The 32's have a common problem with the brakes making noises. Get someone to stand beside the car (crouched down) when you take off and see if they can hear it. It could be the pad taking up free play in the caliper. It could also be a universal joint in the tailshaft as these make a crack when you accell and then come off accell. Rear driveshaft's in those are pretty strong and seeing as though they don't turn too much then I doubt this will be your problem (don't rule it out though) I would check brakes then check tailshaft. You could remove the rear pads temporarily to see if it still does it. With the tailshaft it will make a loud ping when you apply/remove torque. (like banging your tailshaft with a small hammer)

Is it a four wheel drive? and does it get louder when you turn full lock and accelerate? If not then see if it does it louder when you are parked and turn the wheel from full left to full right and back again. Does it sound like it is coming from inside the car or outside moreso? If it's inside then it could be the column itself or the switching mechanism for the indicator. (Have you recently changed a steering wheel or something?) If it outside the car then check the column coupling where it joins into the rack. Also check the HICAS sensor under the steering wheel.

what the hell are you going on about?

I had the same noise from mine for a while. You can spray WD40 in where the throwout fork rubber boot is. This is the solid looking arm thing that goes inside the gearbox and moves back and foreward when you push the clutch pedal in an out. If you're unsure, just get someone to operate the clutch and you'll find it pretty quick. This is only a bandaid cure though. If it keeps up or gets worse then you will have to replace it. They usually start squeaking after a bout of rain. But like grigor said, think aboiut the other things you might need to replace while the gearbox is off as you can save money on labour this way.

first check to make sure there is fluid in the reservoir. Then check to make sure the belt is on properly. If these are ok then the pump will need replacement. The pump is a mechanical pump, not electrical. Even if you disable the hicas completely it still has power steering on the front. Therefore, if it's not pumping then the pump needs replacement. You'll have to do a couple of tests on it before guaranteed stuffed but I'd say that will be your problem if the belt and fluid level are ok.

I have a 32 GTST but they should be the same seeing as though they are the same block. They should be 14mm nuts (x2). Jack the front of the car up...put it on body stands of course for safety. Go in behind the drivers front wheel under the car. You should be able to easily access the lower bolt from here. The top bolt is a lot more tricky. You'll have to get at it from the top and use a 3/8 drive rachet and 14mm socket. I'm pretty sure the 33 is the same but the heater hoses mount to the top bolt on the 32 so make sure you put it back the same way. REMEMBER...ALWAYS DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FIRST BEFORE REMOVING STARTER MOTORS OR ALTERNATORS. Disconnect the battery even before you jack up the car. Just for safety.

Take it to your mechanic. It only costs $45 to get a brake flush. That's a complete flush out of all the old fluid and replaced with new fluid. If you absolutely have to know then PM me and I will do a write up for you but it would be quite a long story if you know what I mean. And it is ALWAYS best done with 2 people. Yes you can do it by yourself but you more often than not leave air in the system and get a spongey pedal. Let me know how ya go.

you could hammer a screw driver through it and use the screw driver to turn it.

sounds like it may be in limp mode. When you have it in neutral can you free rev it past 2000rpm or does it not go up that far? Also does it appear to rev freely or is there some restriction to it's smoothness?

did you test the relay's or are you just guessing