The Dan

OK, the sensor in the dump pipe just behind the turbo is your O2 sensor. The one down further is supposed to go into your Catalytic converter. It is an exhaust heat sensor and IS NOT required for roadworthy. If you look on your dash there is a light that looks like a cat converter with three little steam looking things coming off it. That's the light for it. It senses when the catalytic converter becomes too hot IE. Blockage or running extremely rich and the light comes on. Pretty basic. If you are worried about it. all you gotta do is go to a bolt place and get a nut that will suit the thread on the sensor. All you gotta do then is take the nut into your local Exhaust shop and tell them you want the sensor welded back in. They just have to drill an equivalent hole (as close to the back of the cat as possible) and weld the nut into place. Easy as. Just make sure he is careful while welding as he may distort the nut and you won't be able to screw in the sensor. They should only charge about $30 or something similar. It will take no longer than half an hour so don't let them sting you for it. It won't be your o2 sensor I don't think because for compliance they change the catalytic converter and it is too hard to weld the nut and crap like that. They just want it cheap and quick, so they leave them out. Hondas have the same setup.

Auto or Manual?

Try ringing places like Walker Australia. Undercar. Spareco. Not sire of the numbers but if I remember when I'm at work I'll write them down. knore, gimme a call at work on 07-38915733 My name is Daniel. when talking to me make sure you remind me about what you were after coz I'm liable to forget. But happy to help out if I can.

I would start with the Self Diag on ECU. Then pull all your plugs out and replace them after checking individual ones.

Try checking the blower motor relay in the engine bay.

Do a fuel flow test. Hook 12 volts directly up to your fuel pump fuse and get someone to hold a line into a milk bottle (2ltr). Time it and see how much you get after 30 seconds, then double it and that's what it's doing per minute. You should be getting around 2-2.5 litres per minute from memory.

There is no way you are going to get 14:1 ratios at 5000 rpm. Try something like 10:1. you'll only get 14:1 when you are cruising and even then it goes up and down constantly as the computer monitors sensors.

Would you like me to take a photo of my Map sensor and post it to ya. And no the error code doesn't make it run like crap either. I ran 18 PSI through mine for 2 years with code 34. replaced them and still get it, replaced harness and still get it. replaced computer and still get it. I know 20 other skyline owners with error code 34 and they all know people with it also. Maybe your intake pipe before the turbo is sucking closed or something. The 32's are renowned for it. Fork out 75 bucks and get a run on a dyno where the guy can watch what it's doing, then you will have a better idea of what's going on.

no.

I've got the R32 GTST and GTR manuals in English on CD ready to go with Acrobat reader. What would it cost to post it to ya?

sweet, I've been frantically looking for it everywhere. Everything I have read said it was between the ECU and the IGN. But I couldn't find any locations. The only other relay I knew of was in the boot there. Sorry to steer you astray mate.

OK, try in your boot between your tail lights. You will probably need a screwdriver to remove the interior panels but it should be in there. I can't find it anywhere else.

I'll find it for ya, hang on a sec

I would like to point out at this time (and no offence intended here) but NO car is safe at high speeds. You forget that it takes two to tango and when you are travelling at 100 k an hour and some grandma rocks up at an intersection, she's not going to be able to accurately judge your speed and therefore she will pull out. Hey, they have a hard enough time judging your speed at friggin 60. What if there was an animal crossing the road or a kid or your tyre explodes....don't forget people...what happens when you go too fast. EVLR34 would have probably outhandled any of our cars but look what happened there. A lethal weapon in the hands of an innocent ameteur. I'm not taking away from the fact that we probably have a better chance at avoiding death but don't rule it out because your car is on rails. I have no doubt that the person who wrote the article in the paper was a tosser who doesn't know jack about squat but truth is, people are listening to him...not us. FACT - around 24% of accidents in passenger vehicles result in serious injuryfor it's passengers - around 43% of accidents in 4WD's result in serious injury for it's passengers. 4WD's are actually one of the most unsafe vehicles on the road. The thing is that you don't see too many 4WD's caning down a main road at 140 or even 100 when the speed limit is 60. They don't race people off at the lights and a majority are driven by responsible people (I didn't say experienced or good drivers either). A majority of import sports cars are owned by teenagers and people in their early to late twenties. So the stereotype is there for us and you will never be able to shake that. That's my tree-fiddy.

Plus if you have the cable, I have access to a $10,000 OTC Scan pro (at work) that it should be able to plug into.

Wally at P&M Motor Body Repairs in Smith Street Capalaba Brisbane has a Nissan Consult. He bought it coz he said the Snap on one he got was crap. It works on everything from R32 to R34

R32 green

I got my passion from when I was 8 years old. My best friend loved Corvettes coz his dad was a mechanic and they worked on hotrods and vettes and other stuff like that. I said that I like them too and we had a big fight because I wasn't allowed to like the same car as he did. Then one day, I think I was about 12 or 13, I saw a white R32 GTR take off at the lights and blow away a GSXR750 motorcycle. I said to Dad (who I was in the car with at the time) "Look dad it's a corvette". He said "No son, that's a Skyline". I said "I want one of those when I grow up". He said "You're not allowed". I said "Awwwww!!". Then Dad told Grandma and she said that if I ever bought one I would never be allowed to see her again coz she didn't want me to have one. That was enough for me. Any car that demands that much respect must be the shizzne. Dad hates it coz I can go from 0-100 in 4.5 seconds and... I still wonder what my Grandmother is doing these days......

The original R32 GTR Australian import that was imported for bathurst (only 1000 released) sold for $100, 000 new. They still sell for around 70-80 as there is only 4 left. They are more powerful than a standard GTR. just over 500 hp

Pm Sent.

RB20 DET CAMS(with camgears) - $50 RB20 DET INLET MANIFOLD - $75 RB20 DET INJECTORS(uncleaned with rail) - $100 2 x R32 ABS COMPUTERS - $50 each RB20 DET EXHAUST MANIFOLD - $20 Water Pump in excellent condition - $50

RB20 DET CAMS(with camgears) - $50 RB20 DET INLET MANIFOLD - $75 RB20 DET INJECTORS(uncleaned with rail) - $100 2 x R32 ABS COMPUTERS - $50 each RB20 DET EXHAUST MANIFOLD $20

I can get the 044 for $310 any day of the week whether I buy 1 or 100.

I am after an Air Flow Meter for an RB20 DET. If anyone could help me I would much appreciate it.

HPR 40 is the wrong oil. It is too thick to be running through a turbo. The bearing clearances are too small to fit such a thick oil through efficiently. HPR 30 is even too thick. You should only use HPR 15 for this application. As for Mobil 1..it is a very good oil but is not good for the turbo cars. It breaks down too rapidly. You will have to do oil changes every 3000 kms. A semi synthetic 10w30/10w40/15w40 would be perfect for 32 and 33 skylines. Try not to go lower than a 10 though as a 5w or 0w is too thin and allows more wear when the engine is cold. Castrol and Penrite are really your best choices with oil in general.