The Dan

Is the gauge you're using accurate?

OMFG that's gold mate. I didn't even think of that.

What I meant was the choice was easy considering the bad media around the PAR brand. If you are going to make MORE THAN 1000hp then I can understand why you would want to be this particular about what is what and which set EXACTLY to go for but like I said....THE CHOICE IS SIMPLE!! There is a question over the quality of the PAR gearset so you pretty much don't want to pick that one. You have literally like 2 others to choose from - PPG or OS Giken. Pick one......drive the car......have fun and forget about it. Helical gears are quieter operation and I don't think anyone makes a helical gearset that is dog engagement, they will all be synchro Straight cut gears are whiney and you can get either synchro or dog engagement. Choose synchro if you aren't sure. It won't make a difference unless you are building a dedicated (read DEDICATED) track car.

Crank case pressure can cause the oil pressure to read higher/lower but not by the amount being seen there. If you had that much crankcase pressure that it caused massive spikes up or down you'd be blowing rear main and oil pump seals out of your engine. You would also be literally pumping oil out the breathers into your catch can and popping your dipstick out. From the engine I've seen with massive crankcase ventilation problems, they actually made oil pressure read much lower as load was applied. Both times it was broken ring lands I would be checking ECU and signal earths. It sounds like a sender/signal problem tbh. The only other thing that could effect oil pressure like that 'might' be crank end float but shit you would have to have a tonne of it

They made their own manifolds for testing. I think it was the V35 engine it was tested on, I got it via email in the Expreme newsletter probably about a year or 2 ago

The car or the poofter?

Neo and R33 manifolds are supposed to be different.

Did you just agree with me? It's hard to tell I was talking about split pulse manifolds vs single entry manifolds - not single gate vs twin gate. twin gates are awesome........if you have a spare $800 to throw away why not? we will continue to gate off housings. It works and works extremely well.

You cannot really go wrong with OS GIken, though. No bad reports. Holds tonnes of HP. I'm pretty sure the choice is simple

Yeah I know a lot of people have had dramas but what I heard was the dramas were to do with the way they were being driven which caused premature wear of the dog teeth. I cannot personally comment on their quality as I have never used a set from PAR but TBH how could they still be in business if they had a shit product. I can tell you for certain that if they are driven gently, they will be wrecked in no time. I spoke with PAR a while back about it when we were looking for solutions to breakages and they told me that was the very reason they were having problems - that and workshops fitting them that didn't know what they were doing. NYTSKY - did your firends have the PAR sets installed by PAR? or were they fitted by someone else?

wow, that definitely looks bent alright. The turbine housing is an easy one. I've probably even got a stock manifold you can have but there is something wrong and you need to work out what before you continue, In that picture the bolts holding the turbo on look half melted. Am I seeing that correctly?

Yes. 200psi if you like. The bearing cannot exit the engine and the amount of load the bearing is under while in operation makes 150psi look like a poofters fart

Lol. The traffic light racing scene from Ali G came instantly to mind

If the company is one of the reputable turbo reconditioners then you have nothing to worry about. Ball bearing turbos don't seem to be able to handle everything we throw at them but the bush bearing turbos pretty much never fail. Not saying this will be the case for everyone but that is what we have noticed. There is nothing wrong with journal bearing turbos. Ball bearing is slightly more responsive though. How does it feel to drive? Also, under $1000 is cheap

I would be EXTREMELY surprised if your turbo 4 bolt flange was warped. I would be even more surprised if the gasket leak wasn't caused by the improper installation using no conelock nuts etc. I've never seen a turbine housing warp and we've had them so hot we lost a turbine wheel on a 3582R - it was still flat. Just one more thing - don't EVER use one of the perforated shiny gaskets on your manifold or turbo. Even turbo to dump pipe is a no-no. They are rubbish gaskets and cannot withstand the heat and pressure of a turbocharged engine. Genuine only

Ok it's a tiny white lie also - it's a 2.2L

T04Z

This isn't a difficult excercise. Too many of you are worrying too much about wtf is happening inside your engine or manifold. If anyone worried as much about fuel choice or correct injector/pump sizing instead, most would not need to worry about their manifold design because they would be out smashing v8's all over the place and pulling chicks because their shit is so awesome. steam pipe, good merge collector, lots of boost - there! I just designed all your manifolds. If you've spent 100k on your setup, are going to WTAC and need to worry about every tenth of a second and beating the guy next to you that spent 101k, split pulse is the way to go. Spend hours, if not days, pondering the length of the runners and the internal dimensions of the collector to make sure at 10,000 magnification, you have no raised edges anywhere to disrupt flow. 1. Most manifold makers don't understand the true physics behind the design or even how the engine works 2. Most split pulse manifolds (if done correctly int he first place) are going to give you 100rpm response gain over your standard run of the mill CRG/6Boost manifold 3. More time can be spent consuming alcohol than worrying about something that is going to give you 2/5ths of f**k all benefit. I'd rather shorten my life by alcohol than by stressing over manifolds 4. Tomei did back to back testing - split pulse vs single entry and tuned length vs normal runner manifolds in every possible combination and the results were basically nil gain or so minimal it wasn't worth the extra coin

There's an RB20 that comes here that makes 640hp at the wheels. You can keep your f**kin RB25. GIVE ME REVS BABY!!

Absolutely. Can I sell them to you at a good price though? Hahaha *looks around to make sure Nismoid isn't watching* What price? I don't know what you're talking about.

What engine?

Pressure won't effect the bearings in any way, shape or form. But yes, agreed, pressre relief valve is possibly stuck from sitting and not being primed correctly. Take it off and examine it but don't just assume you need to remove a spring. I've fit Trust pumps before and they work perfectly out of the box without any issues. The last one I did was on an R32 GTR. It has 0.0022 - 0.0024 bearings clearances and no mod to the pump in any way. It sees 8.5 - 9 bar idle cold I think. obviously reduces as the engine warms up though

And in addition to that: The reason straight cut is stronger VS helical cut is because the two gears aren't trying to twist off each other. The only reason helical cut gears were developed was to reduce noise. There is absolutely nothing wrong with PAR gearsets. From the reading I did when they were supposedly having problems, it was dog engagement gearboxes that were having the problem and I can tell you now, dog engagement needs to be driven VERY SPECIFICALLY so make sure you are aware of this if you choose this path. The options are: Helical synchro Helical dog Straight synchro Straight dog Obviously the sets with synchromesh are nicer to drive. Dog engagement should be considered race only and if driven too 'nicely' you will f**k them very quickly P.s. The gearset picture on top is straight dog. You can see the dog selectors which are like large castle sections which lock in together

Be VERY careful about how much you put on. You literally only want a thin smear. Once the two flanges press against each other, the sealant will squeaze out and you don't want major quantities blocking the drain hole or being able to become dislodged and travelling down into the sump. There, they can block the pickup and smaller galleries.

^^ This You also need to be careful how far around the scroll you put the pipe and try to avoid making the pipe flow the same or similar direction as the scroll of the turbine housing. The idea is to create a high speed pressure drop at the high pressure area but avoid restricting the flow by making an easier path while the gate is shut. By doing it almost 90deg to the scroll you will achieve that. We don't have back to back results to share unfortunately, but we have a brilliant view from up here standing on top of all the failed attempts at manifold designs we have seen and had tuned when people supply manifolds to us. Sean at EFI started noticing more hp on the cars that they ran gates off housings and better boost response and control than other identical setups. We started doing it (a little sceptical at first for sure). The results spoke for themselves and we just do it that way every time now. There have been a couple I've done where we actually had another manifold made for the customer and binned their 'namebrand' steam pipe manifold as they got a much better result that way. GTR_Joey - the only reason it's better than 2 gates is because it works just as well (2 gates works extremely well) but you only have to buy 1 gate. Premium gates aren't cheap. That's a nitrous kit worth *No manifolds were harmed in the making of this post